DIY - Complete Brake Rebuild F&R

B&W_Evader · 02-06-2016, 04:42 PM

Well it's that time. 54k, second set of XP8s in the front and first set of XP8s in the back are toast. Rears started grinding about a week ago so I ordered rotors and pads from Z1 Motorsports and the seal kit from the local Nissan dealer.

B&W_Evader · 02-06-2016, 04:48 PM

Everything was packed real nice from Z1. I opted for the Fed-Ex in-store pickup and the contents look like they made it through well. I even got the Z hat.

B&W_Evader · 02-06-2016, 04:55 PM

I'm doing the rears first. So... Pull the car out of the garage, chalk the fronts and loosen the rear lugs. Loosing the lugs before you lift the wheels off the ground makes it a lot easier. I don't jack on the differential because of how many bushings I've heard blown. Not sure this is the optimum spot but it looks like one of the better ones. Then, of course... Jack stands.

B&W_Evader · 02-06-2016, 05:06 PM

Once you've removed the wheel, you will see the rotor and the caliper. It's time to remove the pads. You do this by removing the clips that hold the pins in and then slide them out. To get the calipers to retract you will need to pry them open and giving the brake fluid a place to go. I use a 3/8 vinyl tube to direct the fluid into a catch cup. Once the calipers have been expanded, the pads will slip right out.

B&W_Evader · 02-06-2016, 05:22 PM

Now you want to remove the calipers. Remove the 2 mounting bolts, you'll need a breaker bar or hammer. Once removed, the caliper is only held by the brake lines. Be sure not to yank on or kink your brake lines. That's a sure way of asking for trouble. You can see on these what they mean when they say XP8s have elevated levels of dust. You can also see the dust boot is torn with brake dust caked everywhere. I used a screwdriver to scrape of the majority of crud and then used this wheel cleaner and a tooth brush to clean up the area.

More to come...

Jsolo · 02-06-2016, 06:22 PM

What exactly is the seal kit for? What are you rebuilding?

Zbrah · 02-06-2016, 06:43 PM

Have you changed the rear diff bushings?

Mike · 02-06-2016, 08:02 PM

I don't know how far you have gotten, but it will be much easier to handle the seals and dust boots if you unbolt the 2 halves of the calipers for reassembly.

B&W_Evader · 02-07-2016, 01:07 AM

Finished the rears today. Planning the fronts tomorrow.
Seal Kit is for the Caliper Pistons.
Haven't had any issues with the Diff Bushing yet.
The dust boots and seal weren't an issue with the halves together. The only thing I fought with was popping the pistons out. Finally got that figured out.
More pics tomorrow and update coming with all the little tricks I figured out.
Found that wheel cleaner isn't much better than dishwashing soap on the wheel dust.

Zbrah · 02-07-2016, 01:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B&W_Evader

Finished the rears today. Planning the fronts tomorrow.
Seal Kit is for the Caliper Pistons.
Haven't had any issues with the Diff Bushing yet.
The dust boots and seal weren't an issue with the halves together. The only thing I fought with was popping the pistons out. Finally got that figured out.
More pics tomorrow and update coming with all the little tricks I figured out.
Found that wheel cleaner isn't much better than dishwashing soap on the wheel dust.

Reason I asked because one of your photos shows fluid splattered all over the exhaust pipes. I saw the same thing on my car last summer and it was my rear diff busting its nuts.

Jsolo · 02-07-2016, 11:33 PM

@B&W_Evader, why are you rebuilding the caliper pistons? Are they leaking or have some damage or other issue? I don't recall reading any threads on here or the G site about anyone rebuilding theirs.

I do see some splatter on the exhaust pipe in one of your pics. I think that's what prompted the question about the leaking diff.

Compressed air works well in popping the pistons out. Just put something in between them so as not to cause any damage. They'll shoot out with high velocity.

B&W_Evader · 02-08-2016, 10:02 AM

I see what you mean about the splatter on the exhaust. I'll take a closer look when I get back home and find out where it's coming from. As far as why I'm rebuilding... The first time I did the front I didn't have any of the seals and saw a couple of the piston boots were not in good shape. I decided then that then next time I went in there I would replace them. Then, thinking about the chance of dirt getting inside while I was messing with them made me decide to do a complete teardown and replace the seals since I would probably damage them while removing them.

On to more pictures.... These show the screws and nut that holds the brake line in. You'll need to remove them to get your caliper on the workbench. I usually try to remove as little as possible and initially tried doing it without completely removing the calipers. It became obvious very quickly that removing the calipers is required. Using CDA you can pop the pistons out. I just let the first one come out and then used this trick to get the second one out. The pad material gives the piston something semi-soft to bang into as it comes out. To remove the dust seal, you need to remove the metal clip first. I used a metal pick to get under it and it came right out. You don't have to worry to much here because there's rubber between the pick and the caliper. I used the same pick to get the seal out of the bore. Here you need to be very careful not to scratch the caliper. Using a hard plastic pick or o-ring remover would be best for this one. Once the caliper is off, the rotors should come right off. Make sure you don't have your had brake on since the hand brake shoes press against the inside of the rotor where you can't see them. Now is a good time to transfer over that little rubber grommet to your new rotors. That way you won't forget about it later.

B&W_Evader · 02-08-2016, 10:18 AM

Next, clean all the inside using a brand new clean rag. Don't get grit or grime in here, this area needs to be pristine. Grease the seal with the provided grease and press it into the groove. Work both ends around, the last part will curl up but just work on it. It'll pop in. Then give it a visual to make sure you didn't put a twist in it. Grease the dust boot in the areas that will be touching metal. Not sure if you're supposed to pack the inside or not since they gave me a second type of grease that could be used for that. I left mine dry since it was dry when I took it apart. Put the boot on the piston then slide the piston in. I put a very light film of grease on the piston OD so it would slide in more easily. Push the boot in between the piston and the clipper. I used a small screwdriver to get it to seat all the way. Then get the metal clip in the gap and push gently until it snaps into position.

B&W_Evader · 02-08-2016, 10:29 AM

Time to get the pads and rotors ready. For the pads, remove the backing plates (make sure you remember the order they came off) from your old pads and clean them with a rag. If they were greased the previous time, the dirt should just wipe off. Then put a thin layer of the brake quite grease on each surface and put them on your new pads. There should be enough grease that they stick together but not so much that it's oozing out everywhere. They're ready to go. Give your new rotors a once over. I didn't like how the paint had the bumpy surface so I block sanded them off prior to installation.

B&W_Evader · 02-08-2016, 10:49 AM

Assemble everything back together. If you don't have a good feel for this, get the torques from Nissan. Basically revers order of removal. Easiest thing to forget are the little clips that hold the pins in. Make sure they are there before putting the wheels back on.

Then you need to bleed the brakes. Generally accepted method is to start from the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder and work you way towards it. I would recommend doing your calipers in that order so you don't have to go back and forth. Also, make sure your reservoir does not go empty!

I use the second person approach to bleeding. Press the brake, open valve, release fluid, close valve, release brake and repeat. Important...close the valve before you release pressure from the brake.

I also think it's a good idea to put a label on your reservoir to keep some tech with good intentions from putting the wrong fluid in your system causing you to do a complete brake bleed.

02-06-2016, 06:22 PM	#6 (permalink)
Jsolo Track Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: chicago Posts: 783 Drives: '12 G37 6MT Rep Power: 15	What exactly is the seal kit for? What are you rebuilding? __________________ G37S Sedan 6MT, Eibach swaybars, Invidia Exhaust, Weaker Clutch Pedal Spring For sale links

02-06-2016, 06:43 PM	#7 (permalink)
Zbrah A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: The370Z.com Posts: 4,956 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 5452	Have you changed the rear diff bushings? __________________

02-06-2016, 08:02 PM	#8 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2186	I don't know how far you have gotten, but it will be much easier to handle the seals and dust boots if you unbolt the 2 halves of the calipers for reassembly. __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

02-07-2016, 01:07 AM	#9 (permalink)
B&W_Evader Track Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: CA Posts: 972 Drives: slower than before Rep Power: 387	Finished the rears today. Planning the fronts tomorrow. Seal Kit is for the Caliper Pistons. Haven't had any issues with the Diff Bushing yet. The dust boots and seal weren't an issue with the halves together. The only thing I fought with was popping the pistons out. Finally got that figured out. More pics tomorrow and update coming with all the little tricks I figured out. Found that wheel cleaner isn't much better than dishwashing soap on the wheel dust. __________________ \|RIP\|6spd-sport\|OSG-LSD\|XP8\|RBF600\|Eibach Sways\|RE-71R\|FI-34Row\|Gen3-CAI\|Yaw P.S.\|

02-07-2016, 11:33 PM	#11 (permalink)
Jsolo Track Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: chicago Posts: 783 Drives: '12 G37 6MT Rep Power: 15	@B&W_Evader, why are you rebuilding the caliper pistons? Are they leaking or have some damage or other issue? I don't recall reading any threads on here or the G site about anyone rebuilding theirs. I do see some splatter on the exhaust pipe in one of your pics. I think that's what prompted the question about the leaking diff. Compressed air works well in popping the pistons out. Just put something in between them so as not to cause any damage. They'll shoot out with high velocity. __________________ G37S Sedan 6MT, Eibach swaybars, Invidia Exhaust, Weaker Clutch Pedal Spring For sale links

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