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This article describes how to replace the front brake rotors, the procedure to do the rear is basically the same but I'll only be describing the front. Tools required: 22mm
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#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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This article describes how to replace the front brake rotors, the procedure to do the rear is basically the same but I'll only be describing the front.
Tools required: 22mm socket or box wrench (7/8 is a close fit as well if you don't have 22mm) 21mm deep socket 12mm socket Torque wrench Needle nose pliers Start by jacking up the front of the car by the frame, and place a jack stand in a secure location. Lower the car onto the stand. ![]() Remove the front wheel using a 21mm deep socket with impact wrench or tire iron, you should then see this. ![]() Grab the rotor and turn it out for better access. ![]() Remove the brake pads from the caliper by removing the lock pins. Use needle nose pliers to encourage the pads out. Remove the 12mm nut securing the brake line to the vertical control arm and remove. ![]() Locate the two 22mm bolts on the vertical control arm that secure the caliper, remove these with a 22mm box wrench. ![]() Secure the caliper to the upper control arm temporarily with wire. ![]() The rotor is now loose, kind of. As it is probably rusted in place, encourage it loose with a rubber mallet. ![]() Check the hub for rust that might cause the new rotor to not sit flush. ![]() Install the new rotor, hold it in place with 2 wheel nuts temporarily. ![]() Remount the caliper with the two 22mm bolts, torque to 98ft/lbs. Reattach the brake line to the vertical control arm. ![]() Reinstall the brake pads, and you're done! ![]() If you're new brake rotors are coated like these, drive normally for about 20 miles to remove the coating in the swept area. After that you can follow standard brake bed-in procedure. ![]() Last edited by ChrisSlicks; 06-15-2009 at 08:54 PM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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are you sure you have them on the right side? the last two BBK's i had with slotted rotors, the vanes pointed forward, not backward like you show. the easiest way to tell is look at the top of the rotor and see what direction the cooling vanes go........
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#5 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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![]() Quote:
![]() Some manufacturers have the slots going in the other direction. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Hey Chris, just curious, my StopTechs came with an illustration showing the slots going forward. Is it b/c I have the drilled and slotted? they were marked left and right as well, but mine are going the opposite direction of yours.
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#9 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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A lot of rotors have the slots going forwards so I wouldn't worry about that. Just go by the markings or look down the cooling veins with a flashlight to see which way they are going.
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#11 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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#13 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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If the replacement rotors have an identical or fractionally thinner thickness then it shouldn't be necessary to remove the pads, however it will be a tight fit.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Hey guys just putting on Ichiba spacers on the front and am running into an issue with that extra bolt that is beside the studs. Do i have to knock that out because the 15mm spacer does not go on. Please help.
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