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*UPDATE* I finally decided to update this post with a video of the typical performance for HPDE's. Notice, no annoying clicking at all. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_1TwBIgwKE So, I was running low on
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A True Z Fanatic
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*UPDATE*
I finally decided to update this post with a video of the typical performance for HPDE's. Notice, no annoying clicking at all. So, I was running low on funds for my HPDE, but I wanted to at least tape SOME of my sessions with my cheap point and shoot. Did a little searching, and decided to make my own in-car mount. Now, Im also using the base from my current Tripod, which makes things easy for me - you will need to customize this to suit you. First thing first, things I used: ![]() - 3' x 3/4" square tube ($10 or so) - 3x U-Bolts with the plates and nuts (all of which came together when you bought one...) - 6x locking washers for your U-bolts - 3/4" x ~4" bolt (not sure on the PRECISE length off hand) - 3/4" wing nuts (for the long bolt) - At least three 3/4" washers First, I went and measured dimensions for the actual posts. I was ORIGINALLY intending to have u-bolts wrapped around each headrest post, but it turns out that the distance between the 2 farthest posts is exactly 36" lol. So, I compromised, and decided to go with 2 posts on the passenger side, and 1 on the driver side. ![]() I started by cutting off ~2" worth of wooden dowel, and drilling a 3/4" hole through the center: ![]() I then started using painters tape and a pen to mark where the head rest posts were, and then using the u-bolts themselves, I marked where I'd need to put holes through the aluminum. ![]() Once done drilling all the holes for the u-bolts, I then turned the rod 90 degrees, and put a hole exactly halfway between the inside passenger side u-bolt holes, and the driver side u-bolt holes. ![]() Finally, I began assembling the important part - the mount. I slid one 3/4" washer over my long bolt, and put it through that center hole. Then, I put the dowel over that. I then put one more 3/4" washer at the top, with a wingnut to cap it off. I originally felt this would make for easy removal/installation of the mount, but sadly it looks like I'll need a wrench no matter what just to get it tight enough. Also, It turned out that the 3/4" dowel was slightly too small for my mount, and the 7/8" was too big...so I need to wedge something over the dowel that will make for a tight fit for the head. ![]() When all was said and done, you're left with this: ![]() Youtube sadly compressed the **** out of this video, gotta figure out how to fix that. Things I'm going to do to make it better: use those 3/4" wingnuts on the u-bolts themselves - that will make not only the bar much easier to remove, but easier to ensure its actually tight. Also, its getting a nice coat of paint here tomorrow, seeing as the sun was going down just as I finished it. Also, the video was a VERY dry run - I slapped it into the car as quick as possible before it got too dark. Lots of rattling, which I know the problem (base was hitting the wingnut on the dowel), and I know the actual base wasnt even tight on the dowel yet. Other than that, I made a perfectly good camera mount and it maybe cost me $25 total, including the $6 paint lol. Your results will vary if you dont have a mount that you could put onto a dowel - I'll leave that up to you to figure out, but an "easy" solution would be to simply put a bolt through the center hole the same size as needed for the camera. Only downside is, it'll be facing up in the air. I wanted adjust-ability.
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I don't own a car anymore. Last edited by MightyBobo; 09-22-2010 at 08:32 PM. |
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