QuickJack Lift System

JARblue · 03-29-2019, 10:02 AM

Sorry for asking a question that has probably already been answered, but does the quick jack lock into place once lifted? I assume it's not relying on the hydraulic pressure to hold it up during operation.

BettyZ · 03-29-2019, 10:12 AM

It has a locking bar on each lift and two "heights" where the bar locks out.

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bunk · 04-02-2019, 11:13 AM

Yeah I have an open ticket with them. I have the 5000SLX.

bunk · 04-10-2019, 03:23 PM

Update on my QuickJack, with the one safety arm popping off the stop. I contacted Support and they had me take a video of it. Upon closer inspection, the ramps werent moving evenly, so I re-bled both ramps.
Then as I was taking the video, turns out that the Cam on the offending ramp would "disengage" as it was going over the first safety stop - meaning, instead of going over the stop, it would go into the position where it will let the arm slide over the stop. Sometimes it "disengages" cleanly, and sometimes it would kind of snag, hence the POP when it does engage. Mean while, the other ramp safety mechanism works fine, as well as the higher position stop on both ramps.

Support told me that some cams are machined a bit differently, and I have one of those cams. Theyll be sending me a new cam and pin.

I have a video. if anyone is interested ill upload it. Its only about a 10 second video.

old guy · 04-10-2019, 04:01 PM

Up load it bro I'm choirs to see it

BettyZ · 04-10-2019, 05:03 PM

Has anyone else had an issue with the rubber blocks curling the outer and inner metal on the frame rail?

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bunk · 04-10-2019, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BettyZ

Has anyone else had an issue with the rubber blocks curling the outer and inner metal on the frame rail?

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You mean at the pinch weld? Yeah it will do that if you dont have the block with the notch in it. I dont, but Im thinking of just cutting a notch on the block to fit the pinch weld.

TreeSemdyZee · 04-10-2019, 05:34 PM

Bleeding is definitely important with these. I didn't bleed mine properly and the two ramps were going up at a drastically different rate.
I'd recommend for new users to stand straight in front of the car when you lift the first time.
I was on one side the first time I raised mine and didn't realize how much differently they were raising. Could have been real ugly if I hadn't stopped and lowered it back down.
Once I bled the unit properly (i.e. standing up so the air would rise) then it has been golden.

BettyZ · 04-10-2019, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TreeSemdyZee

Bleeding is definitely important with these. I didn't bleed mine properly and the two ramps were going up at a drastically different rate.

I'd recommend for new users to stand straight in front of the car when you lift the first time.

I was on one side the first time I raised mine and didn't realize how much differently they were raising. Could have been real ugly if I hadn't stopped and lowered it back down.

Once I bled the unit properly (i.e. standing up so the air would rise) then it has been golden.

100%. I've learned the hard way to read every page of the damn manual and just do what it says

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BettyZ · 04-10-2019, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bunk

You mean at the pinch weld? Yeah it will do that if you dont have the block with the notch in it. I dont, but Im thinking of just cutting a notch on the block to fit the pinch weld.

Lol yes that's what I meant. I'm thinking about doing the same... after I mash the metal back together

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bunk · 04-10-2019, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BettyZ

Lol yes that's what I meant. I'm thinking about doing the same... after I mash the metal back together

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80 bucks or something like that for the set for the pinch welds.. yikes!

BettyZ · 04-14-2019, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bunk

80 bucks or something like that for the set for the pinch welds.. yikes!

"We're terribly sorry our product damaged your car. Give us more money."

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bunk · 04-10-2019, 05:07 PM

I had raised the QJ past the first set of stops, then began lowering them onto the stops. Keep an eye on the far cam.

CB1 · 04-28-2019, 01:35 PM

I have the pinch weld blocks. They are expensive but work perfectly. Well worth the money in my opinion.

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BettyZ · 05-05-2019, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CB1

I have the pinch weld blocks. They are expensive but work perfectly. Well worth the money in my opinion.

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Do you stack them on top of the shorter blocks that came with the jack? Just unboxed mine and on their own the lift connects with the Nismo side sills.

I'm considering putting plates on the two long sides, 4 screws per plate, two screws per block

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03-29-2019, 10:02 AM	#1 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 44 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684441	Sorry for asking a question that has probably already been answered, but does the quick jack lock into place once lifted? I assume it's not relying on the hydraulic pressure to hold it up during operation. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

03-29-2019, 10:12 AM	#2 (permalink)
BettyZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Chicagoland Age: 38 Posts: 5,261 Drives: A Garage Queen Rep Power: 2684371	It has a locking bar on each lift and two "heights" where the bar locks out. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk JARblue likes this. __________________ '14 MB Nismo \| Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs. Betty Mods

04-02-2019, 11:13 AM	#3 (permalink)
bunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Southern California Posts: 4,077 Drives: 2010 370z Roadster Rep Power: 2684370	Yeah I have an open ticket with them. I have the 5000SLX. __________________ -Drop in K&N Filter -Invidia Gemini CBE -Z1 Oil Cooler -Swift Springs - EcuTek -Forgestar F14 -SPL Camber Links -Akebono BBK Upgrade -Z1 Premium SS Lines -SPL Diff Bushings -SPL FUCAs - BellRaceworks Diff Brace

04-10-2019, 03:23 PM	#4 (permalink)
bunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Southern California Posts: 4,077 Drives: 2010 370z Roadster Rep Power: 2684370	Update on my QuickJack, with the one safety arm popping off the stop. I contacted Support and they had me take a video of it. Upon closer inspection, the ramps werent moving evenly, so I re-bled both ramps. Then as I was taking the video, turns out that the Cam on the offending ramp would "disengage" as it was going over the first safety stop - meaning, instead of going over the stop, it would go into the position where it will let the arm slide over the stop. Sometimes it "disengages" cleanly, and sometimes it would kind of snag, hence the POP when it does engage. Mean while, the other ramp safety mechanism works fine, as well as the higher position stop on both ramps. Support told me that some cams are machined a bit differently, and I have one of those cams. Theyll be sending me a new cam and pin. I have a video. if anyone is interested ill upload it. Its only about a 10 second video. BettyZ likes this. __________________ -Drop in K&N Filter -Invidia Gemini CBE -Z1 Oil Cooler -Swift Springs - EcuTek -Forgestar F14 -SPL Camber Links -Akebono BBK Upgrade -Z1 Premium SS Lines -SPL Diff Bushings -SPL FUCAs - BellRaceworks Diff Brace Last edited by bunk; 04-10-2019 at 03:26 PM.

04-10-2019, 04:01 PM	#5 (permalink)
old guy A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: S.E. Michigan Age: 68 Posts: 2,711 Drives: 13 magma touring Rep Power: 2684370	Up load it bro I'm choirs to see it BettyZ likes this. __________________ I better walk before they make me run....

04-10-2019, 05:03 PM	#6 (permalink)
BettyZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Chicagoland Age: 38 Posts: 5,261 Drives: A Garage Queen Rep Power: 2684371	Has anyone else had an issue with the rubber blocks curling the outer and inner metal on the frame rail? Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk __________________ '14 MB Nismo \| Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs. Betty Mods

04-10-2019, 05:34 PM	#8 (permalink)
TreeSemdyZee Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Kentuck-IANA Age: 61 Posts: 4,886 Drives: '09 370 & ‘14 Juke Rep Power: 27409	Bleeding is definitely important with these. I didn't bleed mine properly and the two ramps were going up at a drastically different rate. I'd recommend for new users to stand straight in front of the car when you lift the first time. I was on one side the first time I raised mine and didn't realize how much differently they were raising. Could have been real ugly if I hadn't stopped and lowered it back down. Once I bled the unit properly (i.e. standing up so the air would rise) then it has been golden. wideglideleon likes this. __________________ Borla S-Type \| Motordyne \| Z1 (lots) \| South Bend \| K&N \| Nismo/Nismo S-Tune \| Eibach \| Aerojacket \| Fujimara \| Spl \| ZSpeed Performance \| Kenwood-Infinity-Sound Ordnance \| Whiteline \| Ecutek \| Hotchkis \| Clazzio \| VQ Vortex \|Morimoto XB \|Dynosty Tune 329.64hp 265.73 ft/lb

04-10-2019, 05:07 PM	#13 (permalink)
bunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Southern California Posts: 4,077 Drives: 2010 370z Roadster Rep Power: 2684370	I had raised the QJ past the first set of stops, then began lowering them onto the stops. Keep an eye on the far cam. old guy likes this. __________________ -Drop in K&N Filter -Invidia Gemini CBE -Z1 Oil Cooler -Swift Springs - EcuTek -Forgestar F14 -SPL Camber Links -Akebono BBK Upgrade -Z1 Premium SS Lines -SPL Diff Bushings -SPL FUCAs - BellRaceworks Diff Brace

04-28-2019, 01:35 PM	#14 (permalink)
CB1 Base Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Washington Posts: 192 Drives: 2011 Touring/Sport Rep Power: 30	I have the pinch weld blocks. They are expensive but work perfectly. Well worth the money in my opinion. Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk ZoomZ and BettyZ like this. __________________ 2011 Metallic Black, Touring/Sport, Nav, AT \| F.I. Twin Turbo #060 \| E85 \| F.I. Built 7AT \| F.I. Flex Plate \| F.I. 34 Row Oil Cooler \| F.I. 19 Row 7AT Cooler \| ECUTEK Tuned By Sebastian \| 647 WHP 605 TQ \|

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