DIY: Challenge Stainless Steel Brake Lines

flashburn · 11-24-2010, 12:07 PM

Stupid question, but why do you say to refill the brake fluid reservoir between installing each line. Won't it all just drain out each time then? That's what it seemed like happened when I removed first line.

Should I just ignore this anyway since I'm going to be putting in DOT4 fluid? I should just do that at the end and not refill between each line install?

ChrisSlicks · 11-24-2010, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flashburn

Stupid question, but why do you say to refill the brake fluid reservoir between installing each line. Won't it all just drain out each time then? That's what it seemed like happened when I removed first line.

Should I just ignore this anyway since I'm going to be putting in DOT4 fluid? I should just do that at the end and not refill between each line install?

You want to plug the line as best you can when you do the change over, I lost only a few drops of brake fluid.

You don't want to let the fluid drain free as this will introduce air into the ABS controller leaving you in a state where you are unable to bleed all the air out of the system without the assistance of the Nissan Consult III.

M.Bonanni · 11-24-2010, 04:54 PM

^^What he said. It's all to not let any air into the system through the reservoir.

flashburn · 11-24-2010, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

You want to plug the line as best you can when you do the change over, I lost only a few drops of brake fluid.

You don't want to let the fluid drain free as this will introduce air into the ABS controller leaving you in a state where you are unable to bleed all the air out of the system without the assistance of the Nissan Consult III.

So I didn't fill in between each brakeline swap, but I did bleed each brake several times, and didn't have any bubbles. I took it out for a test drive and the new lines feel great, much more precise and not really spongy at all any more... so I'm guessing I'm fine? I did only use one bottle (1.05liter) of RBF600 though.

flashburn · 11-24-2010, 05:46 PM

Also this took me way longer than an hour...

, more like 8 hours! I even had to go to the store to buy some PB Blaster to loosen one of the bolts, thing just wouldn't budge!

ChrisSlicks · 11-24-2010, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flashburn

So I didn't fill in between each brakeline swap, but I did bleed each brake several times, and didn't have any bubbles. I took it out for a test drive and the new lines feel great, much more precise and not really spongy at all any more... so I'm guessing I'm fine? I did only use one bottle (1.05liter) of RBF600 though.

Yeah, you should be fine. Just to make sure jump on the brakes as hard as possible to engage ABS.

Quote:

Originally Posted by flashburn

Also this took me way longer than an hour...

, more like 8 hours! I even had to go to the store to buy some PB Blaster to loosen one of the bolts, thing just wouldn't budge!

Which bolt? There shouldn't have been anything on the brake line on there that tight. The tightest one I encountered was the flare fitting to the hard-line, but as long as you cracked that before removing the clip it was fine.

flashburn · 11-24-2010, 07:37 PM

It was the one the right green arrow would be pointing to:

It has some surface rust on it, so yeah...

I did engage ABS once, and did work, but I haven't ever engaged ABS before on this car, so I can't say whether it felt "normal" or not. But it did feel like I remember ABS feeling in a previous car, the little stuttering it does with the wheels to stop it from locking.

ChrisSlicks · 11-24-2010, 09:16 PM

The ABS pulses at a fairly high frequency so you don't feel much through the pedal other than a bit of extra resistance. Sounds like you are good to go.

flashburn · 11-24-2010, 09:20 PM

Okay, cool! Actually you are right, it wasn't the feel that I normally felt with ABS from other cars, but the sound, that's where I could hear and feel the tires stuttering. The actual brake pedal felt pretty smooth during it.

MightyBobo · 09-06-2011, 12:19 AM

Hey Mike - raising this from the dead. I got my free Goodridge Phantom lines on finally this past weekend, and I wanted to add some insight.

First: For the 10MM fittings on both ends - I do NOT recommend using a normal 10MM wrench to get them. Mine were just slipping away on them. The best purchase I ever made years ago (which also helps a ****-ton w/ bleeding the lines btw), was this 10/12MM combination wrench. It'll wrap all the way around the fitting, and prevent rounding the fitting off.

Also, fair warning: the bolts holding on one of the blocks I think on the rear (maybe...) is attached to a bracket next to the shock. Not surprisingly, you can easily bend that bracket while trying to loosen it, so I just put a crescent wrench in between it and the shock, to prevent it from moving around.

Other than that, don't think I had anything else to add. PB blaster is nice but that wrench I have made its use not needed at all, in the end

eagleeye · 03-29-2012, 01:39 PM

do both bleeder valves need to be bled at the same time? I keep getting air when switching either from the inner to the outer valve or vice versa.

djpathfinder · 03-29-2012, 01:44 PM

One at a time is fine. Is a second person helping you (pressing on the brakes)? If so, have them pump the brakes 3 or 4 times, then you bleed them, but tighten the nut before your assistant puts the pedal to the floor. In fact, if you have a small block of wood, place it under the brake pedal to prevent that from happening, otherwise, if he lets off on the brakes before you tighten the nut, it could let some air in. Also make sure the reservoir has enough fluid while you're doing this. It may take several tries to get all the air out because of how the lines run.

eagleeye · 03-29-2012, 01:58 PM

We've been pumping 3-4 times and holding the pedal in after the last pump, then opening the valves. After the air goes out, tighten the valve; then let off the pedal. This is what everyone has advised, but I don't know why we still have air

djpathfinder · 03-29-2012, 02:25 PM

How many times did you repeat the process on each side (inside and outside)? Sometimes you need to do it lots of times before you see no more bubbles in the tube.

spearfish25 · 03-29-2012, 02:39 PM

You may just have a lot of air in the lines...especially if you're doing the rear calipers. The best $60 you may ever spend is on a Motive Power brake bleeder. Makes the chore of bleeding a mindless one-man job.

I second the need for a 10mm flare wrench. I've rounded all kinds of the hardlines and I've since ordered new hardlines for my next brake bleed (only about $40). Do yourself a favor and go get a 10mm flare from Autozone before you round all the 10mm fittings.

11-24-2010, 12:07 PM	#16 (permalink)
flashburn A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,884 Drives: '12 Corvette GS 6M Rep Power: 19	Stupid question, but why do you say to refill the brake fluid reservoir between installing each line. Won't it all just drain out each time then? That's what it seemed like happened when I removed first line. Should I just ignore this anyway since I'm going to be putting in DOT4 fluid? I should just do that at the end and not refill between each line install? __________________ Current Ride: 2012 Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport Centennial Edition Carbon Flash 6M Previous Ride: 2009 Nissan 370Z Sport Platinum Graphite 7AT

11-24-2010, 04:54 PM	#18 (permalink)
M.Bonanni The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 2,575 Drives: Fast Rep Power: 1321	^^What he said. It's all to not let any air into the system through the reservoir. __________________ MikeBonanni.com Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/MikeBonanni Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/MBonanni36 Function > Form

11-24-2010, 05:46 PM	#20 (permalink)
flashburn A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,884 Drives: '12 Corvette GS 6M Rep Power: 19	Also this took me way longer than an hour..., more like 8 hours! I even had to go to the store to buy some PB Blaster to loosen one of the bolts, thing just wouldn't budge! __________________ Current Ride: 2012 Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport Centennial Edition Carbon Flash 6M Previous Ride: 2009 Nissan 370Z Sport Platinum Graphite 7AT

11-24-2010, 07:37 PM	#22 (permalink)
flashburn A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,884 Drives: '12 Corvette GS 6M Rep Power: 19	It was the one the right green arrow would be pointing to: It has some surface rust on it, so yeah... I did engage ABS once, and did work, but I haven't ever engaged ABS before on this car, so I can't say whether it felt "normal" or not. But it did feel like I remember ABS feeling in a previous car, the little stuttering it does with the wheels to stop it from locking. __________________ Current Ride: 2012 Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport Centennial Edition Carbon Flash 6M Previous Ride: 2009 Nissan 370Z Sport Platinum Graphite 7AT

11-24-2010, 09:16 PM	#23 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	The ABS pulses at a fairly high frequency so you don't feel much through the pedal other than a bit of extra resistance. Sounds like you are good to go. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

11-24-2010, 09:20 PM	#24 (permalink)
flashburn A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,884 Drives: '12 Corvette GS 6M Rep Power: 19	Okay, cool! Actually you are right, it wasn't the feel that I normally felt with ABS from other cars, but the sound, that's where I could hear and feel the tires stuttering. The actual brake pedal felt pretty smooth during it. __________________ Current Ride: 2012 Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport Centennial Edition Carbon Flash 6M Previous Ride: 2009 Nissan 370Z Sport Platinum Graphite 7AT

09-06-2011, 12:19 AM	#25 (permalink)
MightyBobo A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 8,465 Drives: No cars; only bikes Rep Power: 53	Hey Mike - raising this from the dead. I got my free Goodridge Phantom lines on finally this past weekend, and I wanted to add some insight. First: For the 10MM fittings on both ends - I do NOT recommend using a normal 10MM wrench to get them. Mine were just slipping away on them. The best purchase I ever made years ago (which also helps a ****-ton w/ bleeding the lines btw), was this 10/12MM combination wrench. It'll wrap all the way around the fitting, and prevent rounding the fitting off. Also, fair warning: the bolts holding on one of the blocks I think on the rear (maybe...) is attached to a bracket next to the shock. Not surprisingly, you can easily bend that bracket while trying to loosen it, so I just put a crescent wrench in between it and the shock, to prevent it from moving around. Other than that, don't think I had anything else to add. PB blaster is nice but that wrench I have made its use not needed at all, in the end __________________ I don't own a car anymore.

03-29-2012, 01:39 PM	#26 (permalink)
eagleeye Base Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: VA Posts: 16 Drives: 2010 370Z BC 7AT Rep Power: 15	do both bleeder valves need to be bled at the same time? I keep getting air when switching either from the inner to the outer valve or vice versa.

03-29-2012, 01:44 PM	#27 (permalink)
djpathfinder A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton, Canada Posts: 12,910 Drives: 2012 GT-R BE Rep Power: 734	One at a time is fine. Is a second person helping you (pressing on the brakes)? If so, have them pump the brakes 3 or 4 times, then you bleed them, but tighten the nut before your assistant puts the pedal to the floor. In fact, if you have a small block of wood, place it under the brake pedal to prevent that from happening, otherwise, if he lets off on the brakes before you tighten the nut, it could let some air in. Also make sure the reservoir has enough fluid while you're doing this. It may take several tries to get all the air out because of how the lines run. __________________ 2012 GT-R Black Edition Jet Black 2010 370Z 40th Anniversary // SOLD

03-29-2012, 01:58 PM	#28 (permalink)
eagleeye Base Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: VA Posts: 16 Drives: 2010 370Z BC 7AT Rep Power: 15	We've been pumping 3-4 times and holding the pedal in after the last pump, then opening the valves. After the air goes out, tighten the valve; then let off the pedal. This is what everyone has advised, but I don't know why we still have air

03-29-2012, 02:25 PM	#29 (permalink)
djpathfinder A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton, Canada Posts: 12,910 Drives: 2012 GT-R BE Rep Power: 734	How many times did you repeat the process on each side (inside and outside)? Sometimes you need to do it lots of times before you see no more bubbles in the tube. __________________ 2012 GT-R Black Edition Jet Black 2010 370Z 40th Anniversary // SOLD

03-29-2012, 02:39 PM	#30 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	You may just have a lot of air in the lines...especially if you're doing the rear calipers. The best $60 you may ever spend is on a Motive Power brake bleeder. Makes the chore of bleeding a mindless one-man job. I second the need for a 10mm flare wrench. I've rounded all kinds of the hardlines and I've since ordered new hardlines for my next brake bleed (only about $40). Do yourself a favor and go get a 10mm flare from Autozone before you round all the 10mm fittings. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

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