The OEM brake fluid will work fine for normal street driving. Furthermore, Stainless Steel lines wont make a difference for normal street driving. Hell I'd be hard pressed to say
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11-05-2012, 10:54 AM | #46 (permalink) |
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The OEM brake fluid will work fine for normal street driving.
Furthermore, Stainless Steel lines wont make a difference for normal street driving. Hell I'd be hard pressed to say I felt a difference on the track. Save your money and put it elsewhere, IMO.
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11-05-2012, 11:46 AM | #47 (permalink) |
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Duly noted about the SS brake lines. I was just wondering about a power bleeder as I will be without any help doing the bleed or paying someplace to do it for me.
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11-05-2012, 02:45 PM | #48 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
You dont have a wife/girlfriend to pump a brake pedal for ya? Just think about her caressing that pedal with her feet...mmmmm... ...but I digress... lol
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11-05-2012, 03:02 PM | #49 (permalink) |
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I got one of those, she is either busy doing real estate or getting her nails done. I would have better luck/results getting a bleeder
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11-05-2012, 03:06 PM | #50 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Haha, just kidding. Power bleeders are way faster anyway, go with that.
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11-15-2012, 10:58 PM | #52 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Benefit is a higher boiling point, for decreased chance of brake fade. Sent from my Galaxy S3
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11-16-2012, 07:32 AM | #53 (permalink) | |
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Our cars are not designed for silicon brake fluid, that would likely be a very bad idea. It is more compressible, doesn't absorb moisture, doesn't seal as well and doesn't have the correct viscosity to work with the ABS system. Use high temp DOT 4 or DOT 5.1, but never DOT 5.
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11-16-2012, 09:11 AM | #54 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Most people use Motul RBF600, or AP Racing's fluid. Rumor is, Super Blue isnt good enough.
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04-05-2013, 12:31 AM | #55 (permalink) |
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Nice Write-up... Thanks
I'm upgraded to Akebono and I'm considering doing the install but I might have someone else do it since I'm inexperienced with brake bleeding and don't want to spend 24 hours trying to do everything.. lol |
04-05-2013, 09:22 AM | #56 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
The HARDEST part is getting the calipers swapped out.
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04-06-2013, 11:32 PM | #57 (permalink) |
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So which model power bleeder do we use exactly? 1 man = DIY Unless company is there for conversation, which is how I usually go about working on my car.
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06-02-2013, 10:41 PM | #58 (permalink) | |
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+1 I did extensive research on SS Lines and it seems as if they aren't really worth it unless you're strictly tracking you car and keeping an eye on those lines. Even though my brake lines are about 6 years old I think they will outlast any SS lines. Car is mostly a DD with occasional track/canyon runs. |
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07-23-2013, 12:55 AM | #59 (permalink) |
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Nismo SS brake lines
I did this upgrade on my 2013 Nismo last weekend and be warned that the setup on the back brakes is different for the sport brakes. The line has a clip and each end with no block. Make sure you have the right lines before starting.
Once the job was complete I couldn't really tell any difference on the street but I took it on the track this weekend at Motor Sport Ranch in Cresson Tx and I could tell that the pedal had a firmer feel to it.
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08-02-2013, 05:03 PM | #60 (permalink) |
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Just a quick note to let people know that Nissan decided to change the brake line set-up for the Sport Brakes in late 2012. If you own a late 2012 Z or a 2013, the set-up will differ from that shown in the DIY. Also, note that the set-up evidently differs between the 2013's sold in Canada versus the U.S.A. You need to ensure that you order the correct set of SS lines. I learned this after receiving a set of replacement lines from Z Speed Performance that clearly were not right. However, Joe from Z Speed quickly recognized the problem and is now taking steps to obtain the correct lines and to ship them to me. (Kudos to Joe for the great service!). Anyway, just a heads-up for those of you who own late model Z's and are interested in switching to SS lines.
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