Waxes 101: Types of Waxes & Their Uses

Pointman · 10-13-2009, 04:19 PM

I have a Milwalkee high speed buffer, it ran around $200.00 dollars. I have only used it on my boat (which was easy) and it worked great. Used Mequairs products to remove oxidation, then a cleaner wax, and finished off with pure carnuba wax (love the look and smell) but would have to do touch ups regular(I used various different pads depending on the product applied). I have not had the courage to get near the Z with a power tool. The NXT looks great on it and is easy to apply and remove by hand. Not a complete novice, just not real brave with power tools and cars. Thank you for your replies and information. Just want the Z to look the best I can make it.

kenchan · 10-13-2009, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NXTAZEE

Very nice.

thanks, kinda like this.

older pict though...

Pointman · 10-13-2009, 10:11 PM

Ohhhhh, that's nice....

How much did that set up set you back.

bigaudiofanat · 10-13-2009, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

thanks, kinda like this.

older pict though...

Can we say obsessed LOL

kenchan · 10-13-2009, 10:24 PM

im not sure how much ive spent on detailing gear... after a while i dont keep count.

most of my stuff you can find at Griot's Garage and Detailer's Paradise.

NXTAZEE · 10-14-2009, 01:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pointman

I have a Milwalkee high speed buffer, it ran around $200.00 dollars. I have only used it on my boat (which was easy) and it worked great. Used Mequairs products to remove oxidation, then a cleaner wax, and finished off with pure carnuba wax (love the look and smell) but would have to do touch ups regular(I used various different pads depending on the product applied). I have not had the courage to get near the Z with a power tool. The NXT looks great on it and is easy to apply and remove by hand. Not a complete novice, just not real brave with power tools and cars. Thank you for your replies and information. Just want the Z to look the best I can make it.

First I would not recommend that you use the rotary on your Z. If you want to down the road, start practicing on spare panels first. If your Z new and marr free then maintain it by hand. Clay it once a year, or when needed, use a prewax cleaner then your favorite wax or sealant. NXT is fine unless you want to order products from the internet. Proper auto care, autogeek and eshine are sites I order from. If you want to go that route and want some advise, just ask.

Pointman · 10-14-2009, 12:01 PM

Thanks again for the replies and advice.

kenchan · 10-14-2009, 01:37 PM

i used my random orbital on my Z the 2nd day of ownership to remove most of the dealer installed swirls.

then i went at it again about a week ago to rid ALL swirls.

the z's paint is soft though.

Timmer1978 · 10-14-2009, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NXTAZEE

... Victoria wax was able to use a higher content of Carnauba wax. they also do not put abrasives in this wax. Just about every wax on the market contains abrasives. This is because people want a one step product that will clean some oxidation and seal the paint in one easy step. .

Could this be why I already have swirl marks on my one month old Z? I've done everything I could think of to keep swirl marks away. I rinse off the non-scratch sponge every time before it goes in the bucket for more soap but I am still noticing new swirl marks in the paint. I've noticed when I apply the wax with an applicator pad it feels abrasive but I really didn't know any way around that. I've used the maguiar's gold class in both paste/liquid.
I used a clay bar and then cleaned the car with the detailing spray before I waxed it, yet it still felt like it was scratching the paint when I applied the wax. I didnt realize you had to seal the paint though. So after I wash the car and get rid of the old wax I have to polish the car, then wax it?

I don't mind the extra work it takes to put on a carnuba wax or whatever works best. I just want to stop putting swirl marks in my paint and keep the finish looking as perfect as I can for as long as possible. I would like to wax the car again and try getting getting rid of the swirl marks this time without adding new ones.

dad · 10-14-2009, 07:19 PM

^So after I wash the car and get rid of the old wax I have to polish the car, then wax it?
Yes!

___________________
But now you've created a question for me, that I don't have the answer for!
Do you polish "every time", before you wax?

NXTAZEE · 10-15-2009, 02:09 AM

Timmer, sponges are not good for washing. They are a flat surface that can trap dirt and scratch the paint, especially soft paint. Sheep skin wash mitts are what you need. A two bucket wash system is best. One bucket is for the wash soap the other is a rinse bucket. Wash a 2ft square area at a time then rinse in the rinse bucket then back in the soap bucket to wash another area. The wax you are using is not marring your paint. It is coming from washing your car. I see this all the time. Once I get people on the two bucket wash system the problem is usually rectified. Make sure the buckets are new and keep them clean. Do not use them for anything else. Do not use your sheep skin wash mitt for anything else either. Hang up the mitt, don't leave it laying around. Wash from the top of the car down. Use separate mitts for the very bottom of the car as well as the wheels. I use separate buckets as well for the wheels. Give this a try and let me know how you make out.

kenchan · 10-15-2009, 02:16 PM

yah, and make sure the bucket has a gritguard in there (grill) to keep the mitt away from the grit that settles at the bottom of the buckets.

NXTAZEE · 10-15-2009, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

yah, and make sure the bucket has a gritguard in there (grill) to keep the mitt away from the grit that settles at the bottom of the buckets.

That's right, and I doubt you will find that locally. Grit guards will more that likely have to be purchased online.

B1nks · 10-15-2009, 05:31 PM

This may sound dumb but when I hear the term "sealant" then sealing things inside comes to mind. So would it not be beneficial to put the wax on first then seal it in with a sealant? If not then that's no surprise to me as everything else has said sealant first then wax if you can find a wax that will work with the sealant, but I'm just wondering why not the other way around ?

NXTAZEE · 10-16-2009, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B1nks

This may sound dumb but when I hear the term "sealant" then sealing things inside comes to mind. So would it not be beneficial to put the wax on first then seal it in with a sealant? If not then that's no surprise to me as everything else has said sealant first then wax if you can find a wax that will work with the sealant, but I'm just wondering why not the other way around ?

The only reason people use wax on top of a sealant is for looks. Waxes tend to look a little nicer to some people.

10-13-2009, 04:19 PM	#61 (permalink)
Pointman Base Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Pensacola, FL Posts: 128 Drives: 370Z Sport/Tour Nav Rep Power: 276	I have a Milwalkee high speed buffer, it ran around $200.00 dollars. I have only used it on my boat (which was easy) and it worked great. Used Mequairs products to remove oxidation, then a cleaner wax, and finished off with pure carnuba wax (love the look and smell) but would have to do touch ups regular(I used various different pads depending on the product applied). I have not had the courage to get near the Z with a power tool. The NXT looks great on it and is easy to apply and remove by hand. Not a complete novice, just not real brave with power tools and cars. Thank you for your replies and information. Just want the Z to look the best I can make it. __________________ JTTF SQ8

10-13-2009, 10:11 PM	#63 (permalink)
Pointman Base Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Pensacola, FL Posts: 128 Drives: 370Z Sport/Tour Nav Rep Power: 276	Ohhhhh, that's nice.... How much did that set up set you back. __________________ JTTF SQ8

10-14-2009, 12:01 PM	#67 (permalink)
Pointman Base Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Pensacola, FL Posts: 128 Drives: 370Z Sport/Tour Nav Rep Power: 276	Thanks again for the replies and advice. __________________ JTTF SQ8

10-14-2009, 07:19 PM	#70 (permalink)
dad Grand Prix of Endurance Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tennessee Posts: 3,476 Drives: Mulsanne Straight Rep Power: 25	^So after I wash the car and get rid of the old wax I have to polish the car, then wax it? Yes! ___________________ But now you've created a question for me, that I don't have the answer for! Do you polish "every time", before you wax? __________________ We can do without any article of luxury we have never had; but once obtained, it is not in human nature to surrender it voluntary.

10-15-2009, 02:09 AM	#71 (permalink)
NXTAZEE Track Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 530 Drives: 2010 370Z 7AT Rep Power: 17	Timmer, sponges are not good for washing. They are a flat surface that can trap dirt and scratch the paint, especially soft paint. Sheep skin wash mitts are what you need. A two bucket wash system is best. One bucket is for the wash soap the other is a rinse bucket. Wash a 2ft square area at a time then rinse in the rinse bucket then back in the soap bucket to wash another area. The wax you are using is not marring your paint. It is coming from washing your car. I see this all the time. Once I get people on the two bucket wash system the problem is usually rectified. Make sure the buckets are new and keep them clean. Do not use them for anything else. Do not use your sheep skin wash mitt for anything else either. Hang up the mitt, don't leave it laying around. Wash from the top of the car down. Use separate mitts for the very bottom of the car as well as the wheels. I use separate buckets as well for the wheels. Give this a try and let me know how you make out. __________________ 2010 Carbon Silver 370Z 7AT charcoal int. sports package \| Clear Bra \| Invidia Gemini CBE \| CF B-Pillars \| CF Fangs \| CF Z emblems \| Swift Springs \| 20mm & 25mm Spacers \| SPC Camber Arms \| Brushed Aluminum shift knob

10-13-2009, 10:24 PM	#65 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	im not sure how much ive spent on detailing gear... after a while i dont keep count. most of my stuff you can find at Griot's Garage and Detailer's Paradise.

10-14-2009, 01:37 PM	#68 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	i used my random orbital on my Z the 2nd day of ownership to remove most of the dealer installed swirls. then i went at it again about a week ago to rid ALL swirls. the z's paint is soft though.

10-15-2009, 02:16 PM	#72 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	yah, and make sure the bucket has a gritguard in there (grill) to keep the mitt away from the grit that settles at the bottom of the buckets.

10-15-2009, 05:31 PM	#74 (permalink)
B1nks Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Houston,Tx Posts: 721 Drives: 2009 370Z Base 6MT Rep Power: 507	This may sound dumb but when I hear the term "sealant" then sealing things inside comes to mind. So would it not be beneficial to put the wax on first then seal it in with a sealant? If not then that's no surprise to me as everything else has said sealant first then wax if you can find a wax that will work with the sealant, but I'm just wondering why not the other way around ?