FAQ: Clay Bars & Paint Restoration

Alexus

I've decided to post some of my tutorials here until a detailing section is created. Enjoy.

Introduction

I've recently received a few questions through PMs about clay bars. When should I clay bar my car? What's the right technique? How do I get those ugly swirl marks out of my paint? I've thus decided to slap together a comprehensive tutorial that explains how to restore your car's paint after a harsh winter or years of neglect. Older cars require more attention when it comes to restoring the paint, so if you've let yourself go for the last three or four years, this tutorial is the one for you.


Q: What are clay bars?

A: The clay bar is by no means a recent innovation. It has been around for a good while but has just recently been adapted to residential/amateur use; clay bars were, for a long time, limited to detailing shops and the likes.

It is important to understand that a car will spend nearly all its life outside, exposed to the elements, and be subjected to countless contaminants such as acid rains, dust, tar &c. These contaminants end up seeping deep into your paint and are impossible to remove by simply washing the car, even with the best soaps available on the market (while still remaining safe for your paint). With time, these contaminants will end up severely damaging your paint, rendering it vulnerable to iron deposits which can, with time, oxidize and spread throughout your vehicle like wildfire. A car that is contaminated will be vulnerable to this, even with the best of waxes.

The clay bar is by all means not a fix-all. There are some defects and swirls that only a compound will take out.


Q: How much do they cost and how long do they last?

A: A clay bar kit will cost you anywhere between $20 to $50 and will be good for four to five uses on the entire surface of your car. Seeing as it is recommended to clay bar your car at least once a year, at the end of winter, the bar should last you anywhere between four to five years. It's a good investment, to say the least.


Q:How do I know it's time to clay bar my car?

A: Several methods can be used to test your paint in order to determine if it's time to use a clay bar. The simplest one, I find, is to grab a plastic sandwich bag of the Ziploc variety (or any household brand, really), insert your hand into it and rub gently on the surface of your car. If the paint feels like sand paper on your plastic-covered fingertips, it's time to use a clay bar.


Q: How do I use a clay bar?

A: A clay bar treatment can be done following these seven tips, in combination with the instructions provided with the product.

1. Being the treatment by washing your car thoroughly. I recommend doing it twice to remove a maximum amount of contaminant sticking to the surface of your paint. This will make the job easier and less time-consuming, as well as preserve the life of your clay bar. If you clay bar a dirty car, you may harm the paint, so make sure you give her a thorough wash before you even think about rubbing her with a piece of clay.

2. Once washed and dried, take the clay bar and knead it with your fingertips until it is supple. Moisten the surface you are working on with detailing spray which comes with the clay bar; it will act as a lubricant. Working in small areas, one panel at a time, rub the bar lightly from left to right, up and down, following the lines of your car. Follow the separations between panels, never passing between the gaps with the bar. Never use a circular motion and make sure the area is properly lubricated at all times. Wipe down the section with a microfiber towel once you're done and move on to another panel.

3. Knead the bar every now and then, especially when you notice that it is getting dirty. The clay bar will pull out a lot of contaminants from your paint and failing to knead it may redeposit these contaminants.

4. You may use the clay bar on glass and plastic. Always make sure the surface is properly lubricated. If you run out of the detailing spray provided with the product, you may use soapy water.

5. Once you're done test the surface with the Ziploc bag again. The paint should be smooth beneath your fingertips. It is ready to receive a polish or a wax.

6. In order to keep the clay bar in working order, knead it and place it in a Ziploc bag, removing the air from it. Keep away from heat sources. You may also keep the clay bar in a small plastic container with water.

7. Your paint will not have any protection whatsoever once you're done with your clay bar treatment; make sure you apply a fresh coat of wax, applying a polish beforehand if so desired.


Conclusion

Doing a clay bar treatment should restore your paint to its factory finish. Coupled with a good polish and wax the clay bar will remove swirl marks, angel-hairs and cover up minor chips and scratches. For the most tenacious varieties of these defects, look into applying some Meguiars' ScratchX to the affected parts after your clay bar, before applying your coat of wax.

For severely neglected or damaged cars, however, a good old compound is in order although I recommend having that done by a professional.

Hope this helps. If there are any other questions, do not hesitate to ask.

LiquidZ

Sticky!

drmike

Well written!

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Two-Socks

I'm lazy so I gave a clay bar to my youngest son- Interupted him playing X-Box, "Go throw that on the FJ." A minute later I heard a "Thump!, Thump". "What's that supposed to do?"

Thanks for the info.

Any idea how to easily get mag chloride stains off of polished aluminum rims - I have some pro-comps that look nasty.

I used some acid based stuff on the stock alloy rims and it was great.

JakeZ34

One correction, yes polish and compound removes swirls and angel hair scratches, Clay bar does not, it was in your last sentence.

labk888

We definitely could use a separate detailing section within the exterior category.

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k20z3

Very nice, agreed sticky

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k20z3

Maybe add what you prefer -- and photos too that'd help new comers !

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Two-Socks

There is a really long one about polish, wax...detailing. Most by a guy that owns a detailing business. Link was in the same post as to get to the clay bar section. Read it right after I posted my first post here. Am new. Don't know how to go straight to it.

Also saw a separate post strictly about detailing wheels...10 tools to do it.

FOUND THE BASIC LOCATION
http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...tml#post521394

Found another one where the guy does his wheels...and the rest of the car. All good stuff. Long reads,
http://www.tristatetuners.com/forum/...=1#post1671512

labk888

Yeah, those threads are nice. What I meant, though, was that I would like to have a separate sub category called Detailing under the exterior section. Just like the Engine section has sub categories for forced induction and exhaust. That way we could have lots of threads on detailing to talk about techniques, products..etc

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LABK
10' 370Z/PW/6MT/Touring Sport/Illum. Kicks/Ventureshield Ultra/F1 Pinnacle 15% Tint/PLX KIWI

Two-Socks

Agree. Good idea. Would really help- Easier to find and I definately need it - IMHO A lot of people do...Some may not know until they read it. I had no idea there was that much to know that could make that huge a difference.

How do we get the mods involved to facilitate it?

m4a1mustang

I'll PM AK.

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Two-Socks

WTG Okay. I've seen his posts. What's a "sticky"...At least as far as the forum's definition?

kenchan

which reminds me...

i need to clay my G's rear bumper. ever since putting the factory intake on it's running pretty rich (factory setting) and that reproduces a lot of carbon deposits that stick to the bumper while the engine is not fully warmed up and exhaust is steamy.

for nissan's soft paints, ive been using the Griot's clay (aka yellow ikky mud )

j.arnaldo

Sticky=a topic that should remain on the forum like forever, 'cause of it's usefulness.