Removing Swirls
 

Man, I've been out there buffing out the Previous Owners swirls and scratches, off and on, for days. This guy must have used any old rag and no real soap. Or those terrible car washes that wash your car with those big swinging belts, loaded with previous car's dirt.
But it is working. Takes a lot of time . The Meguiars Ultimate Compound is a really good product. Way better than Turtle Wax Polishing compound.
It's Sunny here in SE Tx.
Regards

The Turtle Wax products that come in tubs are meant to use before you repaint your car. They are TERRIBLE.

By hand? LMAO. By hand is your problem brother. Go to Harbor Freight and get a knock off Porter Cable for $60, or go to Home Depot and buy a dual action sander and use it.

That's not true. They were manufactured to be used on your paint at any time.

That is 110% true.

That is 1000% true.

NO.

Get online and get yourself a Porter-Cable 7424XP. Then take a look at my sticky on how to remove paint damage and learn how to use that machine so that you can effectively repair your paint. Getting the machine is the first key. Learning a proper technique with that machine is the second key. That crap of a machine they sell at Harbor Freight is a piece of junk, as most stuff sold by Harbor Freight. You want a quality machine and quality pads to go with a quality compound and polish that you chose to use.

For what it's worth, Menzerna FG400 with a compounding pad may cut down your buffing time quite a bit once you invest in a decent polisher.

It may seem expensive to invest in a proper polish, pads, and buffer, but when you compare the amount of time you're spending on trying to correct these defects versus the time you'll save with the proper tools, it's a no-brainer.

I can polish my entire Z, 3-step green-orange-white, in a morning with my Flex polisher. Only slightly more time with a Porter-Cable but equally spectacular job. I can't even grasp the concept of trying to do it by hand. If I didn't have a PC or Flex, I'd have farmed that job out to a detail shop long ago.

Keep in mind that you should ONLY have to use that vicious attack on your paint ONCE in the life of the entire paint job, especially that green pad (and that's only if necessary). The use of the green pad should only be used as a last resort, as the orange pad and M105 for example is as harsh as many people will ever need to use. If you have to do that 3-pad regimen more than once, then you are seriously doing something wrong in the maintenance of your paint.

Yes. Green is sometimes required for bug staining however.

NOT if you have a solid coat of wax on your paint and you address it RIGHT AWAY. I made a video about that and it's posted in my sticky. All I needed to remove those bug guts was high pressure water and some clay.

But if you DON'T have a solid coat of wax and CAN'T address it right away, a green pad and SSR will work very well to restore the paint from that little bug problem.

True. And every time you do that, you remove more and more of your precious clear coat. Guess what that will mean in time...

Oh paint booth you will go... ;)

Clear coat or bug stains...be going there anyway. Take care of the rock chips at the same time. It will cost less than a clear bra installation.

The only way the paint booth will cost less than a clear bra is when the paint shop says Macco or Earl Scheib on the door. Yuk! :icon14:

In three years living in Bug City, I've found that the likelihood I'll damage the clear coat with the use of green/SSR is pretty low. And that's on a Nissan...not known for particularly robust clear coat. In the meantime, the nose looks good all bug gut-free, and Earl Scheib can rest easy.

No, damaging is not the issue. It's the amount of clear coat that you are removing every time you use that combination and like you said, Nissan paint ain't known for its massive amount of hard clear coat. I wouldn't suggest that repeated practice at all.

Thank you for your opinion.