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Winter Storage

Originally Posted by skidad62 Oct 31 is last day for me - we have seasonal plates here Apr 1 - Oct 31 (allows us not to run a front plate).

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Old 10-13-2013, 10:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Oct 31 is last day for me - we have seasonal plates here Apr 1 - Oct 31 (allows us not to run a front plate). Weather is closing in fast by then for us anyway.

I do an oil change, fuel stabilizer, full detail, carpet under tires, dryer sheets in the car (helps deter mice), crack the windows 1/2 inch, put a few containers of opened baking soda inside, steel wool in the exhaust tips (again to keep mice out), unhook the battery, car cover. Turn the lights out til spring.

If you start your car periodically be sure to bring it up to full operating temps - otherwise creates water in the cats that will sit otherwise.

... it gets cold n snowy up here in the North lol

LOL, I can relate to those snow depths. Those are good points with the dryer sheets. And steel wool deters mice too?


kenchan, what is DiCon?
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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LOL, I can relate to those snow depths. Those are good points with the dryer sheets. And steel wool deters mice too?


kenchan, what is DiCon?
Yep the mice can't chew through the steel wool.
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Old 10-15-2013, 05:12 AM   #3 (permalink)
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LOL, I can relate to those snow depths. Those are good points with the dryer sheets. And steel wool deters mice too?


kenchan, what is DiCon?
I'm not Kenchan (obviously) but DeCon is a mouse and rat poison.
I followed Kenchans advice last year (except no battery tender) and the car started right up in the spring.
I stored it in an enclosed unheated garage, under cover (and it did get condensation at least twice, ugh). used the Stabil, and bounce dryer sheets in each tail pipe and scattered under the car. storage started about the last of November (out first snowfall) until the last part of March (southern Ohio).
BTW-I didn't start mine in that time period. at all. Kenchan and hubby both recommended NOT doing that due to the condensation/moisture that collects in the exhaust.
GL OP!
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Im telling u man...... dont use those rat/mouse pellet poison. It doesnt kill them quickly.i had to pay 1500$ to have the dealership completely rip out my dash, take out all the aircon/heating ducts and clean them, take out the heater core, discharge the AC. And know what they found inside all through the ducts and on top of the cabin filter? About 6 handfulls of that rat poison, and a dead mouse. USE ******* STICKY AND SNAP TRAPS. Or you will pay the price as i did. I did the dryer sheet thing too, thats a myth, mice dont give two ***** about a scented piece of fab, they will just move it out of the way and keep going. Ive used mothballs with varried results and honestly i dont think that works ether. Just block EVERY entry into the car, inside and out with steel wool thats the best, because they cant chew through it. Ive also thought about trying to soak some rags in ghost pepper or trinidad scorpion pepper and letting it dry and using that. Im sure that would deter a mouse pretty fast. Dont forget your intake boxes. Ive looked and looked and i cant find an entry point into the car that would lead straight to the vents, especially from the tire arches as thats the only possible way for a mouse to get into the engine bay or INTO the car. Also covering the car will have over long term effects, it might be ok for the first few years but u will regret it. This is from experience of owning old restored muscle cars. And if your going to start it you have to do it constantly, not once or twice. Anyone like myself with a SS or TI exhaust dont have to worry about condensation. Besides, a lot of condensation builds in them while driving anyway, especially if its under 70 degrees outside, ever see water dripping out of the exhaust in front of u at a red light? They are designed to last under that condition.

Last edited by chii370; 10-15-2013 at 11:58 AM.
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