How do i remove them?
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11-22-2012, 07:59 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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if only in clear coat, a good compound will do the trick. try by hand first, if that doesnt work, you need to get them buffed out.
If down to primer, or metal, get out the touch up paint, the 1500 grit, and the buffer.
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11-23-2012, 03:12 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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Disagree with 1500 unless you KNOW what you're doing, Meguiar's M105 followed by M205 or do Ultimate Compound followed by Ultimate Polish (the ultimates are easier to find in store... PM me if you need help
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11-23-2012, 08:25 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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any decent compound will take out scratches down to 1200 or so. I agree with the mequiars ultimate compound. a good choice for the inexperienced user, as well as those who know what they are into.
Put your touchup paint on in several light layers, and build it up past the surface of the clear. If it makes you more comfortable, wet sand starting with 2000 grit first. be sure to use a sanding block, not your hand..... Once touch up is smooth with the surface of the clear, hit it with your compound. scratches and chips magically go away. Be sure to wash and polish/wax afterwards.
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11-23-2012, 01:48 PM | #8 (permalink) |
Premium Member Bitches
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Please let's not recommend wet sanding to a novice, (sorry brother, not trying to make fun of you or anything.)
Wet sanding is almost an art, you have to KNOW what you're doing, unless you really don't like your car's paint job... I DO agree with light coats of touchup paint to layer it, but then go with one of the compounds I recommended to "blend" it in, otherwise you'll be in a world of hurt trying to **** around with 2000 grit wet sanding and crap, I guarantee it Give me a call or text to (310)eight nine three-4207 and I'll tell you what you need to do Or please POST A PIC of your scratches! Light scratches don't need touchup pain anyways, so I don't know why we're talking about it... |
11-23-2012, 05:48 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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I guess were talking about it because I recommended touch up in my first post "if it was down to the primer or metal"
Assuming that the OP asked where to get said paint, it apparently is. I'm simply passing on the technique that I use with great sucess on a regular basis on all of my vehicles. Its not rocket science. also, Is there a great difference in me recommending to a novice to wetsand, or you telling him to use a buffer?? I'm just trying to help is all.
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11-23-2012, 06:36 PM | #10 (permalink) | |
Premium Member Bitches
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Quote:
If the OP really wants to wetsand, use 3000 grit And a lot of times people THINK their scratches are to the metal but it's USUALLY a nice clear coat scratch |
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11-24-2012, 09:24 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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kinda on the same topic, I've got a few scratches of my own, some in the clear coat and a couple of chips in the actual paint. I've heard a lot of people recommend Dr. Colorscratch or something like that (have to go find the actual name now lol). Would you recommend that or the dealership touch up?
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11-24-2012, 12:35 PM | #14 (permalink) | |
Premium Member Bitches
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Quote:
I know a LOT of people who use it and like it... PW is a bitch color to replicate, same with the 40th and MBlue, sooooo... I'd say get a paint thing from the dealer first and see if it matches. If it does but you do not like the results, or the way you applied it, you can go look at and use Dr. Colorchip's application method... Their remover thing (you'll see) can be substituted for 50/50 rubbing alcohol/water |
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11-24-2012, 12:38 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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Ok thanks!
Sent from my iPizzle using magic and new-fangled science stuff
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