Do you use a mild polish after claying?

Methodical4u

use 2-3 layers and when you wash the car, use a sealant/wax friendly soap... come back to me in a year when the paint is still beading.

Here's another one to try... Collinite Super DoubleCoat Auto Wax #476

ZeeingAround

Did that car get parked in a garage with a Rabid Cat. That hood was horrible and it looked like cat claws.

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Get some roosters for eggs and Bulls for milk . Then you will see that gender matters. Especially at milking time.

Methodical4u

I have NO idea, but I HATED doing that car, and then when I told the guy the price, he looked at me like I was crazy... greedy people. Of course most have no idea what all goes into detailing a car either. Oh well... then don't come back and try to get it done cheaper somewhere else lol.

Junkman2008

My stance is still the same on spanking new paint. The only thing I would use is a PC. You only have so much clear coat and you want to keep as much of it as you can for the life of the car.

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"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."

Methodical4u

ok, so you would use what?

Junkman2008

You can use any professional choice of products that you want. It's not the products that I'm questioning, it the Flex. You can cut a lot more clear off the car with the Flex. In the case of a brand new car with no damage, that is not the machine that I would pick up. I would use a PC, and then use products that perform best on a orbital polisher. The PC is a very effective polisher when a effective technique is used.

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"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."

Methodical4u

I understand that, but if I am using the same pad/polishing compound then the PC is just going to take longer... I can use a PC and put it on 6 or I can use a Flex and put it on 3.5-4 and get faster results.

Junkman2008

Okay.

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"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."

Methodical4u

I mean, i'm not trying to discredit you or anything... all i'm saying is if I have scratches and I use a PC and get them out or a Flex and get them out, the same amount of material is going to have to be removed in order to get to the same point of correction right? I mean I can't magically take out less material if I am using a PC or if i'm using a grinder lol see what I mean?

Junkman2008

Correct. But the point that you are missing is that both machines remove different amounts of clear with each pass. That's why the Flex is as you put it, "faster".

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"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."

murphman

With the flex removing your clear faster you risk burning more clear than needed. So after you finish making your paint perfect, depending on how you wash you are going to have to redo the polish at some point. Could be 4 months could be a year or longer and since the potential of burning through the clear is quickers on the flex there is a greater chance of burning up your paint then with a PC.

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Mod List: FI 18" CBE// Eibach Springs// Rear Camber kit//
Ingen CAI//

Junkman2008

You really have to use some aggressive stuff to remotely think about burning anything with the Flex. The edges are definitely a concern with the Flex but that's about it as far as burning is concerned. The Flex does, however, remove clear coat much faster than the PC and is why I question the use of it on brand new paint with no damage.

The Flex, as any professional detailer knows is a compliment to an array of polishers. It is not the one and only polisher you should have if you truly know what you're doing. I have the PC, Flex, Bosch and Makita polishers to choose from and I pick the polisher that fits the job I'm working on. That job may, and usually does consist of using a combination of two polishers.

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"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."