First wash a DISASTER. Please help...

Super Tanooki · 02-17-2011, 07:16 PM

I got my red Z almost two weeks ago. It's used, but with only 5000k on the clock, barely driven.

Having taken it to LA and back last weekend it picked up a layer of dust and insect guts so I decided to give it a wash. This is the first car I've had that I REALLY wanted to take care of the paint so I did some reading. From various posts on the forum I learned of the two-bucket method, and got a sense that Meguiars' stuff was pretty good, so I went out and grabbed a load of products. Here's what I got:

I tried to follow the best procedure possible:

1) Rinsed with hose.

2) Two bucket method to suds up the whole car using one of those microfiber towels (it says drying towel on the pack but I was told it'll do the same job).

3) Thorough rinse.

4) Dry with chamois cloth using Quik Detail spray as I go.

5) I WAS going to wax but drying was where I ran into problems. It's so f**king streaky. And the swirls that were already there now stand out more. I think maybe it's either the chamois or the detail spray, but all I know is my car looks worse now that before I started...

Please gimme some tips peeps. I'm really worried about this. I really don't want to wear out the red paint, which I hear is really soft. I just want to get it looking real nice. I want to get out most of the swirls (without using anything too abrasive) and get a good shiny wax coat on it.

Which of the stuff in the pic above should I throw out and replace? What, if anything, am I doing wrong, and will ordering a bunch of Adams cleaners/cloths solve all my issues? Anyone recommend a specific kit? (Nothing over $150, if possible).

SoCal 370Z · 02-17-2011, 07:23 PM

DO NOT use the chamois with a quick detailer—its sole purpose is to dry only!

A new chamois always leave a residue after its first use; after several uses the chamois will absorb more and leave less to no residue. Also, never lay your microfiber towels down on something you walk over as they will attract debris that will embed in the microfibers and can scratch your car.

You should really use a clay bar prior to waxing, and the detailer spray between washes and for bird dropping after you've waxed.

Red cars are like black cars = a lot work to keep detailed, but worth it.

Methodical4u · 06-02-2011, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCal 370Z

DO NOT use the chamois with a quick detailer—its sole purpose is to dry only!

A new chamois always leave a residue after its first use; after several uses the chamois will absorb more and leave less to no residue. Also, never lay your microfiber towels down on something you walk over as they will attract debris that will embed in the microfibers and can scratch your car.

You should really use a clay bar prior to waxing, and the detailer spray between washes and for bird dropping after you've waxed.

Red cars are like black cars = a lot work to keep detailed, but worth it.

This... I have never in my life heard of drying a car and using detail spray. Is this actually a method people use?

Junkman2008 · 06-02-2011, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methodical4u

This... I have never in my life heard of drying a car and using detail spray. Is this actually a method people use?

It is a practice that has been slightly misquoted and is somewhat misunderstood. This is something that is done to help rejuvenate dried water spots and help easily remove them during the drying process. You don't take a soaking wet car and spray detail spray all over it for drying purposes. There is no logic to that practice but some folks have misunderstood and do that.

Methodical4u · 06-02-2011, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

It is a practice that has been slightly misquoted and is somewhat misunderstood. This is something that is done to help rejuvenate dried water spots and help easily remove them during the drying process. You don't take a soaking wet car and spray detail spray all over it for drying purposes. There is no logic to that practice but some folks have misunderstood and do that.

oh I see... yeah we have VERY bad town water here... the mineral deposits are just terrible. Which is why i'm looking for the hardest, yet slickest sealant out there.

Xan · 02-17-2011, 07:23 PM

Spray some of the detail spray on a small area, use a clean microfiber to wipe it down, once it starts drying, flip the towel and wipe clean.

Group Buy on Adam's Polishes New Essentials Kit

Super Tanooki · 02-17-2011, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCal 370Z

DO NOT use the chamois with a quick detailer—its sole purpose is to dry only!

A new chamois always leave a residue after its first use; after several uses the chamois will absorb more and leave less to no residue. Also, never lay your microfiber towels down on something you walk over as they will attract debris that will embed in the microfibers and can scratch your car.

So the cloths I have are okay? Like it's cool to wash with those towels?

And RE drying, if you just dry with the chamois, then do I even need the detail spray? The videos I watched said it'd help make drying easier with less streaks. Or should I dry with a microfiber towel instead so I can use the spray?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xan

Spray some of the detail spray on a small area, use a clean microfiber to wipe it down, once it starts drying, flip the towel and wipe clean.

Group Buy on Adam's Polishes New Essentials Kit

Thanks for the link, Han. I'll need to get on that I guess (just spent $100 on the Meg's stuff, dammit!).

dad · 02-17-2011, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Tanooki

So the cloths I have are okay? Like it's cool to wash with those towels?

And RE drying, if you just dry with the chamois, then do I even need the detail spray? The videos I watched said it'd help make drying easier with less streaks. Or should I dry with a microfiber towel instead so I can use the spray?

Thanks for the link, Han. I'll need to get on that I guess (just spent $100 on the Meg's stuff, dammit!).

The spray is for after the car is dry. Your Meg's stuff is fine go ahead and use it!

nicknick · 02-22-2011, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Tanooki

So the cloths I have are okay? Like it's cool to wash with those towels?

And RE drying, if you just dry with the chamois, then do I even need the detail spray? The videos I watched said it'd help make drying easier with less streaks. Or should I dry with a microfiber towel instead so I can use the spray?

Thanks for the link, Han. I'll need to get on that I guess (just spent $100 on the Meg's stuff, dammit!).

Dry with an electric leaf blower, the less you touch the paint the better.

AdamsPolishes · 02-17-2011, 07:48 PM

Could be a few things potentially.

Genuine chamois are impregnated with fish oils, as such they should be soaked in a bowl of warm water for about an hour before it ever gets used on paint.

Also a chamois is not designed to work with detail spray drying agent method... for that you should have gotten yourself a waffle weave microfiber towel.

SoCal 370Z · 02-17-2011, 07:55 PM

Here's the best video that I can recommend for washing vehicles. I do not believe this person is in business any longer, but I do believe that even Dylan will agree with me on his methods (sorry, it's a Google video so you have to go to the link):

How to Wash Your Car (ShowCar style!)

Forrest · 02-17-2011, 08:21 PM

If I could avoid it I woudlnt use a chamois. Any time you touch your car your going to scratch it. Any item that is flat will be easier to scratch I suspect. Like a detail cloth vs a chamois at least the cloth is soft and can pick dirt inside of it and less likely to scratch vs a chamois is just gonna rub stuff on your paint.

I could be wrong but I wouldn't use it.

I would either invest in a cheap walmart leaf blower OR Junkmans sheeting technique and a large towel like you use after a shower to clean up any thing else.

Cmike2780 · 02-17-2011, 08:33 PM

Keep it simple. Dry with a waffle weave and finish of with a microfiber cloth and detail spray. The chamois has never worked right for me and is pretty much a waste of money. The megs quick detailer is ok, but the Adams stuff is one of the better ones i've come across. Also, you'll probably say it's clean, but never let rags that touch the floor touch your paint.

Super Tanooki · 02-17-2011, 08:54 PM

Thanks guys, I'll take all of your tips and give it another go tomorrow morning.

Few more questions:

1) Once dry, do I use the detail spray before waxing, or use a specific polishing product?
2) How often do you polish and wax? I see good waxes last six months. So do I just was twice a year, washing over it otherwise?
3) Do I re-polish over wax every time I wash, or do I only polish when waxing, and otherwise ONLY wash the car with soap water and dry?
4) Oh, also, I want to clear out the swirls made by the previous owner. Is SwirlX the one to go for or is there a better, less invasive product (or will polishing it alone do the job anyway)? And should I Clay before getting out swirls, or is that not necessary? I don't want to cause too much stress on the clear coat.

Forrest · 02-17-2011, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Tanooki

1) Once dry, do I use the detail spray before waxing, or use a specific polishing product?

After I dry I use a detail spray that claims it can remove dirt. The reason for that is so i can remove any thing I missed when washing and remove any left over water spots.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Tanooki

2) How often do you polish and wax? I see good waxes last six months. So do I just was twice a year, washing over it otherwise?

Learn the difference between waxes and sealants. I don't think any "wax" will last 6 months. I don't really know much about techwax 2.0 so I cant comment on it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Tanooki

3) Do I re-polish over wax every time I wash, or do I only polish when waxing, and otherwise ONLY wash the car with soap water and dry?

First thing I have to address is, you have no machine to polish any thing I suspect. There for you wont be doing any polishing.
I may be wrong but if its normal wax and you washed it with a car soap that is harsh you would wash some wax off also I think. You will have to figure out how long techwax lasts on your car and re-apply it based on your own likings.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Tanooki

4) Oh, also, I want to clear out the swirls made by the previous owner. Is SwirlX the one to go for or is there a better, less invasive product (or will polishing it alone do the job anyway)? And should I Clay before getting out swirls, or is that not necessary? I don't want to cause too much stress on the clear coat.

I don't know any thing about SwirlX. I would recommend looking up Junkmans posts on the wash wax forum here. Its very good information.

02-17-2011, 07:16 PM	#1 (permalink)
Super Tanooki Base Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 217 Drives: 370Z MT Base/Spt Red Rep Power: 15	First wash a DISASTER. Please help... I got my red Z almost two weeks ago. It's used, but with only 5000k on the clock, barely driven. Having taken it to LA and back last weekend it picked up a layer of dust and insect guts so I decided to give it a wash. This is the first car I've had that I REALLY wanted to take care of the paint so I did some reading. From various posts on the forum I learned of the two-bucket method, and got a sense that Meguiars' stuff was pretty good, so I went out and grabbed a load of products. Here's what I got: I tried to follow the best procedure possible: 1) Rinsed with hose. 2) Two bucket method to suds up the whole car using one of those microfiber towels (it says drying towel on the pack but I was told it'll do the same job). 3) Thorough rinse. 4) Dry with chamois cloth using Quik Detail spray as I go. 5) I WAS going to wax but drying was where I ran into problems. It's so f**king streaky. And the swirls that were already there now stand out more. I think maybe it's either the chamois or the detail spray, but all I know is my car looks worse now that before I started... Please gimme some tips peeps. I'm really worried about this. I really don't want to wear out the red paint, which I hear is really soft. I just want to get it looking real nice. I want to get out most of the swirls (without using anything too abrasive) and get a good shiny wax coat on it. Which of the stuff in the pic above should I throw out and replace? What, if anything, am I doing wrong, and will ordering a bunch of Adams cleaners/cloths solve all my issues? Anyone recommend a specific kit? (Nothing over $150, if possible).

02-17-2011, 07:23 PM	#2 (permalink)
SoCal 370Z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: US of A Posts: 2,842 Drives: Answers Rep Power: 34	DO NOT use the chamois with a quick detailer—its sole purpose is to dry only! A new chamois always leave a residue after its first use; after several uses the chamois will absorb more and leave less to no residue. Also, never lay your microfiber towels down on something you walk over as they will attract debris that will embed in the microfibers and can scratch your car. You should really use a clay bar prior to waxing, and the detailer spray between washes and for bird dropping after you've waxed. Red cars are like black cars = a lot work to keep detailed, but worth it. __________________ ( Click to show/hide ) Why I NEVER say NO to the Panda Lou Fusz!!! Last edited by SoCal 370Z; 02-17-2011 at 07:30 PM.

02-17-2011, 07:23 PM	#6 (permalink)
Xan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: MA Posts:99999999999999 Posts: 3,301 Drives: 370Z 40th Aniversary Rep Power: 25	Spray some of the detail spray on a small area, use a clean microfiber to wipe it down, once it starts drying, flip the towel and wipe clean. Group Buy on Adam's Polishes New Essentials Kit __________________

02-17-2011, 07:48 PM	#10 (permalink)
AdamsPolishes The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SoCal Posts: 724 Drives: 2009 Avalanche Rep Power: 17	Could be a few things potentially. Genuine chamois are impregnated with fish oils, as such they should be soaked in a bowl of warm water for about an hour before it ever gets used on paint. Also a chamois is not designed to work with detail spray drying agent method... for that you should have gotten yourself a waffle weave microfiber towel. __________________ Use the code NISSANZ* at checkout to save 10% off your next order at www.AdamsPolishes.com*

02-17-2011, 07:55 PM	#11 (permalink)
SoCal 370Z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: US of A Posts: 2,842 Drives: Answers Rep Power: 34	Here's the best video that I can recommend for washing vehicles. I do not believe this person is in business any longer, but I do believe that even Dylan will agree with me on his methods (sorry, it's a Google video so you have to go to the link): How to Wash Your Car (ShowCar style!) __________________ ( Click to show/hide ) Why I NEVER say NO to the Panda Lou Fusz!!!

02-17-2011, 08:21 PM	#12 (permalink)
Forrest Track Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: california 707! Posts: 677 Drives: 09 370z Blk 6mt sprt Rep Power: 259	If I could avoid it I woudlnt use a chamois. Any time you touch your car your going to scratch it. Any item that is flat will be easier to scratch I suspect. Like a detail cloth vs a chamois at least the cloth is soft and can pick dirt inside of it and less likely to scratch vs a chamois is just gonna rub stuff on your paint. I could be wrong but I wouldn't use it. I would either invest in a cheap walmart leaf blower OR Junkmans sheeting technique and a large towel like you use after a shower to clean up any thing else. __________________ my pictures http://www.the370z.com/members/forrest-albums-370z.html

02-17-2011, 08:33 PM	#13 (permalink)
Cmike2780 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Long Island Posts: 5,059 Drives: slowwww Rep Power: 29	Keep it simple. Dry with a waffle weave and finish of with a microfiber cloth and detail spray. The chamois has never worked right for me and is pretty much a waste of money. The megs quick detailer is ok, but the Adams stuff is one of the better ones i've come across. Also, you'll probably say it's clean, but never let rags that touch the floor touch your paint. __________________ [09][MB][6-Spd MT][Touring][Stillen Gen III][K&N][Borla CBE][Evo-R] [ArchitTEK Photography]

02-17-2011, 08:54 PM	#14 (permalink)
Super Tanooki Base Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 217 Drives: 370Z MT Base/Spt Red Rep Power: 15	Thanks guys, I'll take all of your tips and give it another go tomorrow morning. Few more questions: 1) Once dry, do I use the detail spray before waxing, or use a specific polishing product? 2) How often do you polish and wax? I see good waxes last six months. So do I just was twice a year, washing over it otherwise? 3) Do I re-polish over wax every time I wash, or do I only polish when waxing, and otherwise ONLY wash the car with soap water and dry? 4) Oh, also, I want to clear out the swirls made by the previous owner. Is SwirlX the one to go for or is there a better, less invasive product (or will polishing it alone do the job anyway)? And should I Clay before getting out swirls, or is that not necessary? I don't want to cause too much stress on the clear coat. Last edited by Super Tanooki; 02-17-2011 at 08:57 PM.

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