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Any chance my warranty will cover it? Front of my car is so covered in paint chips I'm afraid to show it! Just over 10k miles and I'm almost ready
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#1 (permalink) |
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Any chance my warranty will cover it? Front of my car is so covered in paint chips I'm afraid to show it! Just over 10k miles and I'm almost ready for a respray.
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I just noticed it today coming back from lunch.. So annoying my audi had really bad paint chips. Now the Z!! bah.
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I would highly advise against doing this! 400 grit??? You may as well be sandblasting the chip! You can't just sand something with that grit and then use touch-up paint. That would look like crap!
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Dr. Colorchip or The Lankga System. The have both been discussed on here in detail. Their websites will tell you more about each product than you'll want to know.
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I did some initial research on Dr. Colorchip, and this looks like a great idea. I take it i still need to remove the rust first. The last reply suggest using a dremmel? The pic is deceiving, its a much smaller chip than it appears. Dremmeling out the chip seems a tad overkill?
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#12 (permalink) | |
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![]() looks like someone got his panties all mangled up. the 400grit is to remove the rust. then clean off the area with rubbing alcohol. if you have primer, that's great, you can take a tooth pick with the tip flattened and apply. then take your touchup paint, new toothpick with the tip flattened and apply several coats until it is at the surrounding paint layer. there's touchup applicators you can get online too, but not needed. then dry 2 weeks. if you choose to do so, take 2000grit or higher (i have a 3000grit sanding block) and wetsand until flat. polish. then wax. for most people they probably wont do this wetsanding step. langka is good, but it's not perfect either. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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400 grit sandpaper is WAY overkill for this situation. No one is getting their "panties in a bunch", I just hate to see misinformation given out that would create a necessity to repaint a panel when a novice screws up. My rule of thumb is to never give out advice that I wouldn't let that person try on MY own car. My father painted cars for 40 years before the fumes darn near killed him. I was at his body shop night and day for years when I wasn't in school. This just happens to be a little something that I'm familiar with.
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#14 (permalink) | |
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other people's post just because YOU under-estimate the regular joe. im sure you know abrasive itself is only part of the equation when it comes to sanding (just like polishing). how much pressure and how many cycles also determine how much rust/paint it will take off. 400 grit to remove rust is nothing out of the ordinary. if someone said to take a large wire brush on it, then i might start freaking out like you did. ![]() |
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The Z's paint is soft.
![]() I had the same issue with my Mazda6, so when I bought the Z, I bought a clearbra to protect from this. Trouble is, now I'm hearing about all the long-term issues with clearbras. You can't win for losing, right? |
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