01-07-2013, 10:44 AM
|
#17 (permalink)
|
|
The370Z.com Sponsor
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 724
Drives: 2009 Avalanche
Rep Power: 16
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by dP3NGU1N
Ok so this is a HUGE necro bump but I think it's still relevant, plus I have a link to share! So flamesuit on; heeeeere we go! 
I have a 2013 PW Z and I have rail dust issues (bloody frustrating if you ask me). Now I know a lot of people have said "clay bar" but I've found this article on a car detailing site that tells you to do otherwise. Can anyone confirm that the methods he's suggesting is not only more effective, but also safe for paint?
Rail dust and its removal
Also has anyone witnessed rail dust come back or etch their paint after clay barring without doing the recommended chemical treatment to their car? |
There are a few "de-ironing" products on the market that are perfectly safe for your paint. Essentially they oxidize the metal particle completely and dissolve it. Its great if you need to remove a lot of heavy iron or ONLY need to address iron contamination.
The one thing I always point out about these is that they only attack iron particles, so all the other stuff on the finish (overspray, fallout, sap, bugs, etc) will not be addressed until you clay.
So in the end, you'll end up with 2 steps, and since clay already handles iron particles on its own it seems a bit unnecessary to do both unless you have VERY heavy iron contamination that clay alone isn't handling. The ideal process would be to clay first, then hit the areas with an iron removal product to make sure you got everything.
|
|
|
Similar Threads
Linear Mode
