How to: Cleaning your wheels and tires

StealthZ

First off, when you are going to be cleaning your wheels and tires, you want to make sure that you are using products that are safe on all wheels and finishes. You do not want to use a wheel cleaner that has strong chemical cleaners and/or acids. Reading all the instructions on the bottle and make sure you use the product the right way will give safe and great results.

Products used:

-Meguire's APC+ (4:1 ratio)

-Optimum No Rinse (ONR at 1 ounce per 2 gallons)

-Mequire's M-40

-Foam Applicator

-Wheel Brush

-Tire brush

-Lug nut brush

-5 gallon bucket

-old microfiber Towels

-Clay bar and lube(optional and can use a quick detailer for lube)

-DP wheel sealant(Waxes and sealants can be used to substitute with similiar results)

-Grit guard for bucket

Instructions:

-Always clean your wheels and tires before the rest of your vehicle.

-If wheels and wells are very dirty with mud, try and spray them off with a hose or pressure washer to get rid of as much dirt as possible before actually cleaning them.

- Install Grit Guard and fill a 5 gallon bucket with 2-3 gallons of water and 1 oz of ONR.



-Make sure the wheel is cool, and not hot after driving, and then spray the wheel, tire, and wheel wells with the Meq's APC+ solution. Let the product work in for about one minute 1 minute, and if the wheel is very dirty you can reapply and let it dwell a longer time if need be.




-Now dip the Wheel Brush into the bucket and start cleaning the inside of the wheel first as this is probably the most dirty from brake dust and road grime. Also you can bend the brush to reach around corners if need be.




-Next dip the Wheel Brush and clean the face of the wheel the best you can. If there is anything left a microfiber can help get them off.(the Microfiber towel should only be used for wheels and not re used on painted surfaces after this)

-Next, use the lug nut brush and finish cleaning the wheels logs and small areas the other brush could not get.



-After the entire wheel is clean, continue on by using either brush to clean the brake calipers.




-Now at this point if you have still got embedded brake dust and dirt in the clear coat of the wheels finish, this is the time to Clay the wheels. Spray a generous amount of clay lube on the wheel and clay the wheel just as you would any other surface by moving back and forth with very little pressure on the clay. You will be very surprised at how much dirt and brake dust is still on the wheel. This is an optional step but I highly recommend doing this for best results.










-Next, take the wheel brush and dip it into the bucket cleaning it off and getting more soap to tackle the wheel wells. If these are caked in mud, you should have tried blasting off as much as possible with a hose or pressure washer, But I'd hope no body would get there Z that dirty




-Next take your tire brush and dip it into the bucket and scrub your tires. If there is a lot of built up crud on the tire walls you can respray with the Mequire's APC+ solution again, you will see a lot of browish gunk oozing off, this is usually due to not using the correct tire dressings.

-Once all of the wheels are cleaned, dry all the wheels and tires using a microfiber towel or a shop vac/blower.

-Next, if you have a wheel sealant, it is time to apply thin even layers on the surface, and then remove with a clean micro fiber towel.

-Now you are finished with all cleaning and are left with dressing the tires and wheel wells. Use your favorite dressing here, but be sure it actually helps out the tires and rubber/plastic and not just adding a shine. I prefer Mequire's M-40 as it has very good UV protection and gives a nice shine, but not over the top and it is not greasy or slings off after driving. Another product I use is 303 Aerospace protectant (matte shine, very good protection) and Mequire's gold class endurance tire gel for a very high shine. All these will not brown and will last a long time and protect the tires from UV damage, other then making them shiny for a day or two. The products i used will keep a good shine and protection for 1-2+ weeks depending on weather and amount of driving.


-This is why you should use a grit guard, even though most of the smaller pieces went out when I drained it, you can still see how this insert cleans you tools and keeps the dirt from staying on them to damage the surface of the car/wheel.



Afters:
Wheel well on top of tire looking forward.







My favorite, reflection in the brake caliper

Lemers

I need to wash mine this weekend.

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2010 Black Cherry Touring/Sport/Nav Now - 2012 Travese LTZ until I leave for Turkey

Chris`I

Good write up. I tend to remove my wheels when doing this, and add a few layers of Poorboys wheel sealant. Always easiest to do this when the wheels are new as it makes subsequent cleaning a lot easier.

Another option for the wheel wells that I picked up from a UK detailer is to use Megs Extra Gloss Protection (EGP) diluted down (say 5:1) with water and sprayed in the wheel well. Will dry to a matt finish and give some protection too, although maybe not as good as 303, but will work out cheaper.

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StealthZ

Chris, thank you and I agree. I take the wheels off when needed but not every detail. Bykeeping up with them on a regular basis, it helps keep them from getting too dirty. and a wheel sealant I think is a must as it has man benefits.

dlmartin81

Have you guys tried WheelWax? Checkout my write-up on it.

dlmartin81's PG Sport Z

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Dan
F.I. SS CBE 18-R || Llumar 40% tint

StealthZ

Thanks, and like I stated you can use a wheel sealant or wax. I agree too that there are many benefits to using a wheel wax and recommend such an item highly.

Sandra Dee

awesome write up !!! +1 rep for you!

LMBmikeZ

I like your write up and detailed pics!

I plan on waxing them before the Z is put away for the winter!!!!!

DetailersDomain

great write up

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