Junkman's "How to Completely Repair Your Paint Damage - The Videos!
 

Hey boys and girls, long time no see! With that said, I created a video series on how to do paint correction using a machine for novices shortly after the last time I was here. Somehow, I never posted that video series over here. That was around 2012. Since then, that series has had over a million views. I accidentally deleted those videos from my Youtube channel but someone had saved them and sent them back to me. I combined all of those videos into one video and that is what this tread is all about.

I would have never known that those videos were gone until a LOT of people started asking about them. I didn't realize how popular they still are given how old they are but after going through and editing annotations within them, I realized that the information contained within them is just as relevant today as it was back then. So I am going to post that video here for everyone to enjoy and partake in the knowledge being offered.

If you have been apprehensive about putting a polisher on your paint, this video is definitely one you want to watch. I break this process down to grade school level and if you can't successfully fix your paint with a machine after watching this video, you never tried. I guarantee that you will have success if you do what I show in this video and the video will prove that too you. All you have to do is watch and take notes.

There is no discount codes, special offers or product list associated with this video as there are A TON of different products that you can use to do what I do in this video. Some of you will have products sitting in your garages right now that will more than work. Some of you may have even purchased products that didn't work for you, despite praise from other folks. It could be the product or it might be YOU. This video is going to answer that question for you.


Here are your before and after shots, which won't make a lot of sense until you have watched the videos, especially when you see how the number "2" ended up in the paint!


BEFORE...

http://www.the370z.com/members/junkm...w-wetsand4.jpg


In progress...

http://www.the370z.com/members/junkm...w-wetsand5.jpg


AFTER:

http://www.the370z.com/members/junkm...w-wetsand6.jpg

So get your pen and paper ready, cook some popcorn and kick up your feet. The learning starts when you click the play button. 😉👍






The Junkman

Junkman,
You really are a paint care junkie. Ive never seen anyone that cares about
a cars finish as much as the junkman lol.
I was a bit disappointed you dont do this as a side job. My Z could use the junkmans paint correction and such.
Keep up the good work! :bowrofl:

If I did this as a side job, nobody would come see me because my prices are high! Just to give you an idea, I did a 57' Corvette for a guy. I told him it would be $2000 and I would need the car for 3 weeks. That's just for the outside of the car. About the only folks who come see me are the Jay Leno's!

However, I'll show you how to do it for free. :tup:

Thanks for the videos will look at it next year when I clay and polish in a year. I just did everything last week. I would of never bought a porter cable without seeing your other video about how easy and safe it is.

Awesome videos AJ! :tup:

:iagree: I have always been nervous about using porter cable (though all my friends have them) but after seeing your videos, it seems very easy to use. I think that's on my list of things ;)

Like I said in the beginning of this thread, you should never have to do this entire process more than once, ever. The only thing you should have to do is use a last step polish like Adam's Fine Machine Polish, Meguiar's M205 (or #9) or Z5. You should be following all of my practices on how to touch your paint.

You do wax regularly, correct?

Once you see the results that you get from the polisher, you'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner. :tup:

I just started using optimum spray wax.

On your color car, the maintenance is going to be much easier as the damage will not show as easy. You can get away with a lot.

I am glad someone cares enough about others to put this kind of instructions on video and give it away for free. That's great man!

I have 20 20 vision and I had a hard time seeing any swirl marks in sunlight, my dim garage, or under my 500 watt lights. I did see a couple fine scratches but I had to position my sight with the right angle of light. My black b pillars were different and I could see scratches in any lighting. But I still wanted to clay and polish my z. But it's true silver hides the impurfections.

It's a gorgeous car. If I had the room for another show car in my garage, I'd buy one. I am not a performance junkie as some folks are, I'm more of a cruiser. I could cruise a Z all night long as it probably gets great gas mileage. Plus, that one sharp looking ride, as all the Z's have been through the years.

Watched almost all of your videos but one thing i didnt see was how are you cleaning the pads after use?

Okay after browsing through more of your youtube videos i found you use the gritguard pad washer. Its expensive so it wont be in my near future but maybe later.

I know on one of the videos you put to much product on. Im wondering after you apply product the first time and the pad is still has product on it as you move onto new spots, can you start to use less product as you go on?

I was using the adams swirl and haze remover and i started to notice like all wax applications less is more.

You are CORRECT! Better yet, you can use a couple of squirts of detail spray on the pad instead of applying more SHR. This will help flush the pad of that excess product and allow you to stretch that application where you used too much product. This is also a helpful thing to do when working in direct sunlight (when shade is not an option). :tup:

Another question. Does Fine machine polish produce a better finish than Swirl and Haze remover? I understand the concept Swirl and Haze is more abrasive but do they both leave the same finish or do i need to follow every thing up with Fine Machine polish?

Which pad would you recommend in conjunction with the FMP or M205? I'm thinking the white pad, but I believe you may have used the orange in the video series...Thanks for your thoughts

edit: Oops, found the answer...white!

Absolutely not. SHR is going to leave the finish very dull and beat up looking to the trained eye. You ALWAYS want to follow SHR with FMP as FMP brings the "spit shine" back to the paint. Most manufacturer's use this 1,2 combination.

I ended up following all applications of SHR with FMP. I removed a lot of problems from the car. I think the car may be in better shape now than when the dealership gave it to me.

I'll bet it does. ;)

Junkman,
A couple of questions.
1) can a foam gun replace the use of a standard bucket wash system?
What if you spray the car, rinse and then use the foam gun and a mitt to wash the car?
2) can you use the porter cable on clear bra or does that screw it up?
Just curious on those two things.
One last thing, where on adams site is that 5 inch backing plate you speak of? cant seem to find a 5 inch plate.

can't answer the 1st two questions, but this is the backing plate for the PC that fits the Adams pads perfectly.
Adam's Dual-Action Velcro Backing Plate

Ok, I found that but it said 5 7/8ths. Im sure aj said something about it in his videos but its been a minute since i watched them.
Im seriously thinking about ordering this magic porter cable. My cars paint isnt in bad shape by no means but very minor marks under correct lighting (florecent)
just figured i might give it a try.

Okay, let's clear up these questions.

First off, NOTHING can replace a proper 2-bucket wash. If you truly understand why you need to do a 2-bucket wash, then it will completely make sense to you why there is no way around it. I cover this in detail in my 10-part video series.

Second. you do not use the PC on the clear bra. The clear bra does not need paint correcting or waxing so there is absolutely no need to put a polisher on it. You will dress it by hand with the protection of your choice. I recommend the Adam's Clear Bra product.

Adam's no longer carries that 5" back plate that I was talking about in my videos. The link that was posted is the new back plate that you should now be using. :tup:

I wash my car alot and i only ever have dust on it, so i foam gun plus follow it up with a Mitt. I dont seem to have any problems with just getting dust off.

I think i would use a bucket with water if i had real dirt on the car.

The only way to know for sure is to check multiple areas on the car with the flash bulb test. That will tell you eactly what shape your paint is in. For those who don't know what the flash bulb test is, see the pictures below.

http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/slo-cut4.jpg

http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/slo-cut5.jpg

This is how I test paint to see what condition it is in. This will also tell you if you are washing or wiping on the car correctly. You must use your camera's macro setting to shoot shots like this. It allows you to place the camera within 12" of the surface and still get focused picture. If you use automatic mode, the picture will just be blurry. Here is another set of before and after.

http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/cnats2010_8.jpg

http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/cnats2010_9.jpg

he only method of washing that I'll ever endorse or you'll see me do is the 2 bucket wash. It is proven to be damage free when done correctly using te correct equipment. The paint on my car is a testament to this method.

http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/washpics0.jpg

http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/washpics3.jpg

junkman,
it looks like the front of your car either has mad rock chips or there is lint on it?
Whats up with that?
Other than that, That car is PimP! What a shine. What depth in the paint. Wet looking.
nice work junkman.

You are correct! It has mad rock damage. It happens once a year down in Atlanta. Here's the video!

Great video tutorial Junkman, I enjoyed watching.

Thanks for watching. :tup:

Brilliant, as usual! And tht's only after watching for 5 minutes. Damn you, man, now I have to set aside my Saturday morning and watch the whole series. And I'll be glad I did. +1 rep :tiphat:

Thanks Steve. I'm still trying to figure out how I can do this live at the big Z gathering! ;)

How exactly can I do a flash bulb test? I know I still have flaws on the car but I was not willing to remove too much clear coat to fix minor things that i can barely see for a daily driven car.

well 6 hours into the 4 step dance.

Clayed for 3 hours. I could spin and slide the clay with no problem on the wet car once I had done the claying. But the baggie test showed some roughness. Don't think I was rubbing hard enough. Not sure if some of this stuff is just something I will never be able to get out or not.

Got 3/4 the car done the Swirl and Haze process. I only did one spot of the car with SHR and FMP just to see how hard I had to go at things. I had one scratch in the clear coat stay after doing those two steps in the area, the rest were gone. I guess I am just a bit chicken with the PC still.

I would have kept going tonight but the skeeters got too bad on me. The car is safely tucked in the garage waiting on O-Dark Thirty to get started again. I hope to finish this up tomorrow.

Definitely has been a learning experience.

I clayed my car for the 1st time two weeks ago. It about 4 hours to clay, with a few breaks in between. The baggie test is a good starting point, but you can only clay so much. In could also be imperfections in the clear coat. Try the baggie test again after using the PC polishing process.

If a scratch is going to come out, it will come out with SHR. If it doesn't, going to FMP is NOT going to yield any different result because FMP has even less cut that SHR. As for your claying, you were probably not using enough pressure. You have to work in small sections, making sure that you totally get each section perfect before moving on.

What you found out is that this is hard work. That's why once your paint is perfect, you would be insane to allow it to ever get into this condition again. You would also be insane to continue doing the things that allowed the paint to get into the shape it is presently in. Now you realize why my wash regiment is so extreme.

the PC will do nothing for the results that you are getting with the baggie test. The solution is in the clay! Add more pressure.

Whats the best way to get rid of wax residue on the rubber/plastic parts?

I have already switched to the Adams 2 bucket wash with two separate Adams wash pads.

I am just trying to find a foam gun now...

I will do the clay process again in late fall when it is a bunch cooler as the heat in the garage just about killed me yesterday.

K

Well 16 hours later it is all done...

I learned a lot. My Z has some scratches. Some may be through the clear coat, but when I do this in late fall I will work those areas with a bit more vigor as I have a much better feel for the polisher and process now.

Thinks I learned.

First off if you are getting fine dusting of either the SHR or FMP coming off the pad you are using too much product. Just keep reviving the product with detail spray until the dusting stops. Then use product much more sparingly, the Junkman was not kidding when he says a little goes a long way.

It is hard to judge when you have worked the product enough on a black car and I am still trying to figure that out.

It is much harder to judge all of the processes on a black car without having enough light in the garage, I did not have enough tubes over the car and the ones on the back wall did not cut it. More lighting will be installed in the garage before I do this again.

Then end result looks fabulous and was well worth the 16 hours invested.

Now all we need to do is get a Junkman clinic for a Z event. I found out too late to head up to PA for the corvette show...

I too didnt have enough Light in my garage. This helped me some though
Amazon.com: Room Essentials® 5-Head Floor Lamp - Blue: Home Improvement
A floor lamp with 5 adjustable snake lights.

You bring up some very valid points to be aware of. Lighting is very important and it also helps in figuring out how long to work the product. Under working the product is better than overworking it. And yes, you did miss out on some hands on info in person this weekend, although I will be there until 2:00 PM today. :driving: