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Junkman's "How to Completely Repair Your Paint Damage - The Videos!

Thanks Junkman for the amazing vids. I have a 2009 red Z and due to my ignorance on car paint maintenance I have several swirls and small scratches I need

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Old 05-02-2011, 11:00 AM   #91 (permalink)
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Default Contacting Adam's Polishes

Thanks Junkman for the amazing vids. I have a 2009 red Z and due to my ignorance on car paint maintenance I have several swirls and small scratches I need to address. I just recently spent 7 hours cleaning and waxing my car and the results were terrible. I started looking for some answers and happened upon your videos here. I am excited and hopeful that I can really make my car POP again! I am purchasing a 7424XP PC from Amazon.com and it says it comes with a 6" counter weight but your videos say to use the 5" counter weight. I'm ordering the 3rd generation pads and backing plate from Adams and am not sure which counter weight they will need. Will the 7424XP come with the 5" counter weight or will I need to order this, or will the 6" counter weight work for the 3rd gen pads?

Thanks again for all your help with us noobies in paint care!

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Old 05-02-2011, 02:49 PM   #92 (permalink)
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If you order the kit from Adam's. the PC will come with the exact counter weight that you need for the pads and back plate that they sell. Why would you order the PC separately from somewhere else?
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:08 AM   #93 (permalink)
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Just finished with the clay bar on the front and the Swirl and haze remover. Found about half a dozen very small rock chips in the hood. I do have the Dr. color chip kit. Do i stop and apply the color now to fill in the chips or wait until I am done with the fine machine polish?
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Old 06-27-2011, 04:53 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Do it now. The chips must be completely clean of everything before you work on them anyway. Just don't buff the repaired area unless the touch-up paint is COMPLETELY dry.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:14 AM   #95 (permalink)
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I will dilute some of the all purpose cleaner and hit it with a mf towel. Any idea on dry time for the repair? Day or two? tIA for your quick reply this morning.
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:22 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Whatever the manufacturer says as far as drying time is concerned, is what you should go by. Only the manufacturer knows their product and I wouldn't take anyone's word over what they say.
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:28 PM   #97 (permalink)
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From their FAQ:

What is the proper procedure for detailing with Dr. ColorChip paint?

Quote:
Wash & dry the vehicle. Do any "hard" detailing first, like wet-sanding, compounding and buffing. Then use our paint. Follow up with standard waxing a week later. Refrain from using a circular buffing wheel and wool pad for at least 30 days. We suggest using a random-orbit buffer with a foam pad and quality compound at all times for the best, swirl-free results (rather than the circular buffer and wool pad.)
Their process does add some very light surface scratches around the paint chip area so I did the fine machine polish after the chip repair a few days later. On the metallic blue Camaro I couldn't even find the chips without searching very carefully after I was done.
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:44 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Well I put some on this morning and discovered more chips in the hood. It has really taken a beating. Oh well.
2min to 2hrs is the dry time depending on the type of chip,mine was a 2min. I did the glove wipe and then the cleanup. I still need to do the fine machine polish though.
I will get the car out in the sun and look some more.
Sure wish the previous owner would have put the 3M clear bra on the hood.
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Old 06-27-2011, 01:00 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Dry time is not cure time. The paint needs to be hard enough that it isn't going to get polished out.
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:41 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Yea. I understand. It was enough time to do the step 2 of the colorchip process. Wiping off the excess.
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Old 06-28-2011, 07:03 AM   #101 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeingAround View Post
Yea. I understand. It was enough time to do the step 2 of the colorchip process. Wiping off the excess.
Sorry I misread the first time. Thought you were machine polishing like 2 minutes after doing the chips
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:27 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Still some more chips to fill in and go over the existing ones to see if I can level them out.
My eye is about two inches from the surface trying to get it right. Why did I buy black again? ARRRhg. I suppose I will move on to the back of the car with the PC and get it ready for some Menzerna sealant that is on the way.
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Old 07-09-2011, 10:13 AM   #103 (permalink)
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Hey Junkman, just a quick question. I just bought some Adam's brilliant glaze and was wondering if it was ok to use on top of the Americana Wax. The videos show it applied before the wax is applied. It already looks pretty good, but I was hoping it could be even better. Your thoughts?
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Old 07-09-2011, 10:30 AM   #104 (permalink)
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Are you attempting to cover up some imperfections? That is what a glaze is used for. It offers no protection so if you are not attempting to cover up any damage, I personally wouldn't bother applying it. The Americana is where your protection is coming from. Stacking too much stuff on top of your paint just allows for more opportunity for you to cloud up the shine anyway. I would personally follow the KISS method and "keep it simple".

By the way, I would follow exactly what the video says to do to answer your question directly. Putting wax on top of the glaze helps hold it in place as it washes off after a few washes and reveals the imperfections that it was covering.
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:19 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Yeah, its just to cover some very light swirls. I only polish when I absolutely have to. I actually tried a light coat earlier and it really gave it the "wet" look so I'm pretty happy with the results. I know it won't last long, but neither does anything else.

It just didn't make sense that it would be applied below the wax if it wasn't meant to last long. That would mean it could technically last as long as the wax or even cause the wax to come off prematurely since the bond is weaker with the glaze.

I don't see how this product would complicate things. I know to keep it simple, but since this product was designed to be part of the "Adam's" system, I would venture to guess it is suppose to work in conjunction with the other products and give the results advertised. I just needed as second opinion and really appreciate your input.
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