Junkman's "How to Completely Repair Your Paint Damage - The Videos!

Junkman2008

First off, you've just watched 1 hour and 20 minutes worth of videos. You are overwhelmed with information overload. You need to stop, take a breath and watch these videos again, as well as the other ones below the first 10. There is no possible way that you are going to retain all of the information that you've just seen, nor does it all make sense to you at this point. The more you watch the videos, the more clear this will become. Also, the more you watch the videos, the simplier this will all be.

The main reason that I used Adam's in these videos is not only because they work, it's because they are also the easiest product line to use and understand. Thus, you need to take a break, grab a sandwich and watch them again. You will learn a lot more the second time around. Now let's address your post directly.

Google Langka and Dr. Colorchip. They both address the easiest way to repair paint chips. Either product will work. You have some reading to do. As for the scratch, the process you see in my paint correction videos (the ones below the first 10), is how you deal with scratches and swirls, as well as haze and dullness.

Again, that second set of videos deal with this issue.

The pads listed on the Adam's site come in 2 sizes. The 4" pads, which are used to get into very tight areas and also the larger pads, which are used to buff the rest of the car. Although the smaller pads come in handy, guess which ones you need to do most of the car? That's right, the bigger pads. Now your choice just got easier.

That is not necessary at all. If you get polish somewhere that you shouldn't have, just wipe it off. It will not damage anything. Just don't expect it to come off easy if you leave it on for 3 months while your car bakes in the sun. Address the problem immediately.

Now you know that taping is not necessary. However, if you do decide to tape off something (like an emblem), blue painter's tape is what you want to use. It comes in various widths, and is safe for all finishes. By the way, buffing over your emblems will tear up your pads so don't do that and avoid buffing up against any sharp edges. That will rip chunks out of your pads also.

Then maybe you will understand Porter-Cable's chart on cord lengths.



There it is in black and white. You look at the length of the cord you need to run and the chart tells you exactly what gauge it should be. These are the minimum gauge lengths. You can always use a larger gauge than what they recommend, but definitely not smaller.. Simple.

You can also check with these Adam's dealers to see if any of them have one also. There may be one listed in your state.

Good idea, although you have nothing to worry about concerning the PC. How do I know this? Watch these two videos. They will easily put your mind at ease concerning the PC.

Another piece of advice that you want to adhere to. Pick a 2' by 2' spot on the car you want to practice on. Do the complete process on that spot. See if you can get the results you want in that one spot. If you can't, ask questions and keep practicing. If you can't get one spot right, then you won't get the rest of the car right. Thus, you don't want to apply a crappy technique to the entire car until you have an effective technique. Using a ineffective technique does nothing but waste product, time and you end up frustrated with the outcome. So learn the process in one spot, and then apply what you've learned to the entire car.

You shouldn't look at it as being complicated, you should look at each part of the process as, "Wow, that makes sense! Why wasn't I already doing this?" If that is not the way you see the entire process, then you haven't watched the videos enough times. Once you do trust me, the process will make a ton of sense.

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"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."