Why is it so bad if a microfiber towel has a tag stiched into it? Can't i just remove the tag?

The tag is an issue, yes. But it ain't just the tag, it's the fact that the microfiber cloth that you are looking at is made in China. China made microfiber is some of the worst microfiber on the planet. You may as well be using sandpaper on your paint. If that made in China towel feels soft to you, then you have never touched a quality microfiber towel.

Use it to check your oil, not on your paint.

I bought one and used it on black cherry paint-worked like a charm. I also took some automotive tech classes which rec the porter cable-no worries! Watch Junkman videos and you will be A-OK!

Junkman, my new Z is on order and will arrive this April (04/2011). Could you tell me how best to treat the paint as soon as I get it and how long I have to wait to apply addtional finishes?? Thanks in advance for your help! Oh, I got the Pearl White if that makes a difference?

Color does not make any difference in detailing. All colors damage the same and will shine the same depending on what polish (NOT WAX), you choose to use.

Your car will probably come with no protection. If you are smart, you'll tell the dealership to perform absolutely NO prep to your car. Those yahoos will swirl up the paint and present your car to you in less than pristine condition which will create more work for you. Under no circumstances do you want them to do that. Dealerships are not in the car care business and their crappy work reflects that.

If you car does arrive in pristine condition, the only thing that you should need to do is properly wash it and apply wax. If you do have to polish the paint (which is what creates the shine), the Adam's Fine Machine polish is all you'll need. Follow that with a wax like their Americana Carnuba Paste Wax or better yet, their sealant called Machine Superwax (which protects the paint much longer). Both of these waxes must be applied a specific way so if you don't know how to use them, ask.

Remember, wax is what protects the paint. Polishing is what makes the paint shine. Don't confuse the results that you get from each and buy the wrong thing. They are both necessary but they offer two, totally different results.

Awesome thanks Junkman! So, it is ok to wax it as soon as it's delivered? Sorry, but I've always heard that the paint is to soft right after it's build, but hey, you're the man and I trust your opinion!

Allow me to explain why the paint is fine to wax as soon as you receive a new car. I would hate for you to pass this info on unless you can explain your answer. "Because The Junkman said so!" is NOT a good answer. ;)

When a car is assembled at the factory, all of the parts to be painted are painted with nothing on them. That means that all the body panels have NO plastic, rubber or anything else on them. Because of this, these painted parts can be cured in a paint booth at temperatures that are much higher than can be used if the car was fully assembled. The temperatures used will fully cure the paint. You do not have to wait any amount of time to wax a car when dealing with a car that is coming from the factory. An aftermarket paint job is a totally different story.

That's why it is safe to wax it right away. Now you know too. :tup:

Once again Thank you so much for all your help Junkman. It's nice to know that I can detail my car to the fullest degree once it's in my hands, oh, and I'll be sure to tell the dealer not to detail it themselves! Man, I'm SO GLAD I found this site before I got my new Z!!!

You really have to stress that point with them. Some dealers will wash and wax the car anyway. The hacks that they will have prep your car usually have no clue about proper car care.

I just finished watching all the videos and WOW. Thank you very much for taking the time and sharing all the knowledge. I was hoping you'd let me know what u think about what I am planning on doing.

1.Rinse it
2.Foam Gun --> DP Xtreme Foam Formula Auto Shampoo
3.Wash it--> with Meguiars NXT Generation Car Wash, 2 bucket technique, 2 grit guards and 2 sheepmits.
4.Clay it--> Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay and Pinnacle Clay Lubricant
5.Wash it again
6.Dry it--> Cobra Guzzler HD Waffle Weave Drying Towel
7.Wax it--> Meguiars NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0

I am starting from scratch and I don't have any of products nor a PC and I kinda need to keep cost down. Do I need a PC in order to apply the wax on step 7 or is that something that can be done by hand?
You mentioned that “Wax is what protects the paint. Polishing is what makes the paint shine” Do I need anything after/before the wax to get this shine without using a PC? If so, what should I get?


Thanks again for all the great info, it has def. changed the way I think about car washing and detailing. I saw it just in time since I have yet to wash my Z for the first time and this way I can start with the right foot.

Ron.

Here's what I would do using your steps above. My input will be in red.

1.Rinse it.
2.Foam Gun --> DP Xtreme Foam Formula Auto Shampoo
3.Wash it--> with Meguiars NXT Generation Car Wash, 2 bucket technique, 2 grit guards and 2 sheepmits. - At this point, I would use Dawn for my 2-bucket wash so that any chemicals that are protecting the paint would be washed away.
4.Clay it--> Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay and Pinnacle Clay Lubricant - You should realize that all clay in America is made by one company (Clay Magic), so the brand of clay means nothing, only the grit.
5.Wash it again - Using a soap made for cars.
6.Dry it--> Cobra Guzzler HD Waffle Weave Drying Towel - I don't dry my car with a towel, I use a leaf blower. The less you touch the paint, the less opportunity there is for you to damage the paint.
7.Wax it--> Meguiars NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 - After claying the paint, you need to polish it. I don't understand how guys go from clay, directly to wax when claying leaves the paint so dull looking. Polishing brings the shine back to the paint, at which time it is now ready for wax.

You can work without a polisher all you want but there is no way that you can get the same shine by hand that you will get from using a polisher, with a lot less effort. I have seen these polishers for less than a hundred bucks new and even more discounted when used. If you cherish the condition of your paint and plan to keep your car for years, I would jump on getting a polisher. For me, it's a no brainer but then I know the advantage of having one. I'm passing that knowledge on to you.

Now for the polishes and wax that you choose to use. I used Adam's products in these videos. I have no experience with the Pinnacle line, nor do I use any of the over the counter Meguiar's products. If I use anything from Meguiar's, it's going to be from their professional line (Mirror Glaze). If you have no product as of now, I would highly suggest that you buy what I used so that you can mimic what I do. You saw the pictures of that hood I fixed so you know the products work as advertised. The second set of videos in my initial post address the polishing aspect in lot more detail. They show the simplicity of the Adam's line. I highly suggest you watch those if you haven't already.

One thing to note, the Adam's line comes with a 110% money back guarantee. If you don't like it, you can send it back for all of your money back. Pinnacle ain't gonna do that. Lastly, you can use my discount code (The Junkman) and receive a 10% discount on the cost of the products. I even have a kit that includes everything you need minus the phone gun, which you can get on eBay, Amazon or at Autogeek.

Here's another video series that concentrates on the wash process. You should check it out too. There are even more tips and tricks concerning washing that you need to see. There is a lot more to car care than most people realize. You'll notice that once you sit down and think about it, nothing I do is rocket science. It is simply common sense. ;)

Thanks for watching.

Thank you for taking the time and answering my question in such detail. I saw the videos on washing techniques u linked and they were very helpful (and funny).

I will definitely get a PC in the near future, but the car can't wait until then for its first wash :icon17: So based on what you told me, and what I can do atm, how does this sound:

1.Rinse
2.Foam Gun
3.Wash --> with Dawn, 2 bucket technique, 2 grit guards and 2 sheepmits.
4.Clay
5.Wash --> with Adam's Shampoo, 2 bucket technique, 2 grit guards and 2 sheepmits.
6.Dry --> Water Sheeting and Electric Blower
7.Hand Polish --> Adam's Revive Fine Hand Polish
8.Wax it--> Adam's Buttery Car Wax

I figured I don't need SHR since I see no swirls whatsoever, car is brand new and has been garaged ever since I got it 2 weeks ago.

So, do I get The Junkman approval? hehe

Ron.

That is definitely a better route to go, given the condition of your paint and the equipment involved. I'll give it :tup: :tup:

Ok I purchased all the stuff, will let u know how it comes out..Thanks again!!

Junkman2008, thank you for those excellent videos. I actually learned a lot and may now do some of the work myself. I was curious what your relationship is with Adams since you are using only Adams products and they are not exactly cheap. Are you being paid by Adams to make these videos and are you recieving those products free from Adams?

I only use Adam's products in those videos and post those videos here because Adam's is a site sponsor. I don't use Adam's exclusively, just most of the time because it addresses most of what I encounter and and probably all of the issues that you will ever have with your car's paint. Sometimes I get into more advanced, body shop type work which requires more advanced equipment and products, all of which I would never do videos of because of the complicity of the repair. It would be like watching a video on how to fly a plane and then trying it yourself. Not a good idea.

I make these videos absolutely free because I like helping guys out. If you search my You Tube channel, you will see me using everything from Zaino to Meguiar's Mirror Glaze products. I do get free products from quite a few different manufacturers as they do find my videos entertaining and send me stuff to find out what my opinion of their product is. However, this is the guy who pays my salary. He's a taskmaster but the pay is good!

I appreciate your efforts and your attention to detail. These seem like very complete videos and you left us not guessing anything. I can't imaging how I've been abusing my paint over the years! I just bought a new 2011 370Z and have had it for a month with less than 500 miles on it. Do you recommend I clay this and give it a good wax job? I have no idea what kind of wax pretection (If any) these have from the factory. Also I was curious what your opinion is of the clearbra type protection that people are using?

Claying paint is not something that you do because you think your paint needs it, claying is done when you test the paint and FEEL that it is necessary. Only by testing the paint can you say when or if it is necessary. I go into detail on this in my videos. Do you remember the method I used to test the paint? This is why I always tell folks to watch my videos more than once. There's so much info in there that you can't possibly catch it all the first time through.

The factory doesn't usually put any significant wax on your car so you want to do that as soon as possible.

The clear bra is an excellent investment if you take care when working around it. You never buff up next to it and never treat it with anything that is not recommended by the installer.

Paint protection
 

Hi Junkman2008,

Speaking of paint protection, do you use a clear bra or leather/nylon bra on your Corvette? Brother, your vehicle is beautiful and well taken care of!

Do you try to semi-detail the bottom (undercarriage) areas of your vehicle as well as the wheel wells? If so, do you use your own jack or drive-up ramping system to get under it?

Do you like Corvette convertibles? Do you see yourself purchasing one in the future?

Lastly, money is no object. But, what microfiber cloth brands or types do you recommend for washing, drying, and hand buffing/removing wax from any vehicle for minimum scratches, swirl marks, simulated spider webs, etcetera.

Thank you and sorry for asking alot of specific questions.

Samuel

Thank you and welcome to the forum Samuel. :tup:

I use a leather custom bra when I go to the track. Other than that, I don't as of this time, but that may change.

I don't sweat the undercarriage of my car all that much. The only thing that I make sure of is that no fluids from the motor are staining the undercarriage. Other than the wheel wells, I leave the rest alone until I roll up under the car.

Jacking a Corvette up is quite an undertaking without a lift. In order to raise my car in the garage, I have to go through the lifting steps you see in this thread. It takes about 15 minutes to get it up off the ground. You can only lift a C5 Corvette in 8 spots.

Convertibles are nice but I don't see myself ever purchasing one. The coupe give me the option of a convertible and a hard top all in one. Plus it offers shade when the top is off.

Number 1, if you are using the correct technique AND a quality towel, you won't create any scratches. Right now, most of the best microfiber is made in Korea. You will not find them in any auto stores, you have to order them online or from a product line distributor. Right now, Adam's and Zaino have the best microfiber that I have used. You don't use one towel for everything. There are towels specifically for drying and towels specifically for removing polish and wax. Use the right towel for the job you're doing.

Junkman2008,

I appreciate you sectioning off the questions and answering them.

Information was very helpful, especially the microfiber section. :tup:

Thank you for the quick responses!

Samuel

Junkman2008. Your video is great. Very helpful.

I've recently tried a touchup job myself. I used 2000 grit Meguiar Finesse Sanding Block to finish and plane the spot. But it leaves scratches and marks I can't remove with wax or glaze.

Any suggestions?

Wax or glaze are non abrasive they won't correct anything. You need to get some polish and a DA or rotary to get that back to a shine.

If I were you I would read up a bit more before you take sand paper to your paint...

:eek:

As Xan said, wax and glazes do nothing to repair paint. Wax is used to protect paint. Glaze is used to hide imperfections in the paint. You are not going to be able to repair the damage that you have done to the paint by hand, but you definitely don't want to pick up a rotary polisher if you are not experienced at using one. A orbital polisher is going to be what you need to get your hands on in order to undo the damage that you have done.

I cover all this in my wet sanding video series.

I think the best advice in this case would be to bring it to a pro before you do more damage....

Although he has used 2000 grit paper, it's an easy fix as long as he hasn't went through the clear coat. I know from experience that the paint on these Z's can be finicky but he should still be able to save it if he follows the steps in my wet sanding series.

I would agree that the quickest fix would be to let a pro take care of it. I could fix something like that in 10 minutes.

Great vids Junkman. Thanks for posting.

Thanks for watching! :)

Thanks for these vids. I'm gonna do this during this week. All my materials are here now except for a brush to clean the Maguire's DA Microfiber pads. I'll try a regular cleaning brush lightly on them I suppose.... Wish me luck, lol.

Please let us know what u think about the new meguire's da microfiber pads. Im on the fence about purchasing that kit. Curious how it will work on our paint and if its any better than the old foam pads

luck!

Should I use painters tape or something on edges of the headlights, etc., so that I don't hit them at all with my cutting compound?

That's a common practice and you've just stated a good reason. I say you're thinking, and that's a good thing. :D

OK, I just finished exterior detailing my Z. It took me about 7.5 hours. But it came out awesome!

I was even able to get out the marks in the hood that were on it from when I bought it (it had been on the lot as a leftover 09 for a long time).

I am a complete detailing noob, but I have read a decent amount in the past months online and watched your vids, Junkman. (They are amazing btw).

I used a Dawn wash to get off the old sealant. Then I used Mother's clay bar, which didn't do much. I don't know if it is very good. Then I re-washed. Then I used painter's tape around the headlights, tail lights, the door handles, the Nissan and 370Z insignia's and near the sideview mirrors. Everything else that wasn't paint was easily avoidable as long as I was very careful. I then used the Maguire's DA Microfiber system with a Griot's Garage DA polisher. I used the Edge conditioning brush I found online b/c I couldn't find the Maguire's brush and I think it is the same thing from what I read. I used the brush to clean the microfiber pads about every 2x2 patch of car. I used Eurow shag microfiber to wipe off the product from the car.

Maguire's new system is great for a noob like me I think. There is no noticeable dust. I did have it sling some product a couple of times, but that was my fault. I used maybe an ounce of each tube (if that much...maybe a half ounce). You don't need much and it seemed to work better with less. With the amount I have left, I could probably do 15 more cars if I wanted.

In any case, most of what I had read prior to their coming out with the DA Microfiber system was to use the same brand in 105 and 205 compound with Lake Country Hydro pads. And of course like you said in the vids, you can't go wrong with Adam's products. I have no clue which would be better. In any case, the new system worked for me.

The hardest part was doing above the wheel wells where it curves a ton. I had to do multiple passes and on final inspection I think I should have done another pass above the left rear wheel well, but I had already finished with both stages of product and to put it frankly, I was done even if I wasn't done, lol.

The car looks better than when I bought it. I only have a Droid that I can take pics with and I took a couple. Most of the time pics on that thing look terrible online, so I doubt it is worth it to upload them. If they look clear, I'll upload some.

In any case, thanks so much for the vids, Junkman. Those vids plus my other research worked out pretty well. The only thing I was disappointed in was the Mother's clay bar b/c it didn't get as dirty as the ones I've seen pics of online. Although, maybe that isn't a bad thing. I dunno. lol.

So why didn't you try doing this with Adam's products? A lot less trial and error when you use my videos as a template.

Well, next time I'd get Adam's clay for sure. And I might buy Adam's car wash liquid too. Basically, I wanted to use the DA Microfiber system b/c I heard amazing things about it and I liked the handle on the Griot's vs. the Porter Cable.

I have no clue as to what you mean by the "DA microfiber system". Who's product are you talking about?

Meguiar's has a new system that uses microfiber polishing pads and is made for DA machines only, no rotary. It comes as a kit or you can get the pieces separately. I bought the 5" starter kit. Apparently, they've been developing this for years now and has a lot of research and development time. From everything I've read and seen online it is faster, has less dust, and is easy for a novice to use as well. There's a lot of info on it even though its pretty new if you search "DA Microfiber System" on google. Also, here is a video on it:
YouTube - Autogeek.net - New Meguiars Microfiber DA System

Hmmmm.... the first question I have is whether or not their microfiber is made in China. They won't say so if it is. Another thing, why doesn't anyone use a jacked up car like I do? I can make a showroom car shine like glass using cat turds. Nobody wants to use a "realistically" damaged car. Are they afraid of what their products can't do?