Detailing: Frequently Asked Questions, Useful Facts,Tips-Tricks, How to Articles etc

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Detailing Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is involved in performing an exterior detail?
A: In order to detail your car you should; wash with a quality car wash soap (not Dawn), clay, polish out swirls (if necessary), use a mild polish to bring out the gloss in the paint, and then protect the rejuvenated finish with a quality sealant and/or wax.

Q: What is the correct order to perform the various detailing steps?
A: As stated above: wash, clay, polish, mild polish, seal and/or wax.

Q: How often should I perform a full exterior detail?
A: Two times a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.

Q: I heard that dawn dish soap is good to use if I want to strip old wax from my car. Is this true?
A: Depending on how fresh your coat of wax is, dawn may not remove all the wax.

Q: Is Dawn bad for my paint?
A: This is a very debateable question. I personally think that since Dawn was designed to remove grease from dishes, it should not be used more than once or twice a year. There are others who argue that Dawn is no more harsh than some shampoos specifically designed for automotive paint finishes.

Q: How did the dawn phenomenon start?
A: I think a lot of it had to do with Zaino's recommendation to use Dawn prior to starting the Zaino process. They claimed this was to remove any oils and old wax present on the paint. These things needed to be removed in order for the Zaino to bond properly to the surface. Zainos philosophy is that once you Zaino, you should never leave the Zaino system, thus negating any need to ever re-wash your car with dawn. In the zaino world, dawn is a one-time thing. But people being people, they automatically assumed that dawn was the best way to ‘clean’ their paint, and they began doing it very often regardless of whether they were Zainoing. Believe me when I tell you that claying, and polishing will do a MUCH better job of stripping your car down than dawn ever will.

Q: What is the purpose of claying?
A: The purpose of claying is to remove any imbedded contamination from the surface of your paint, contamination that washing alone cannot remove.

Q: How do I know if I have any imbedded contamination in my paint?
A: You’ll know if your paint feels sandy/gritty when you run you fingers across it.

Q: How does clay work?
A: It works by grinding away the contamination and lifting it into the clay. Claying will leave a clean smooth surface behind.

Q: What is the proper technique for claying?
A: See the below article titled "How to Properly Clay your Car"

Q: Is claying safe?
A: Yes. The only pitfall of claying is the potential for creating minor surface swirl marks from rubbing a contaminated piece of clay into your clear coat. BUT, if you follow my claying article word for word you should have no problems with this at all.

Q: What is the purpose of polishing?
A: The purpose of Polishing is to remove swirl marks from your paint (using a heavier cut polish), and to bring out the full gloss of your paint (using a milder pre wax/sealant polish).

Q: What are swirl marks?
A: Swirl marks are very fine scratches in the surface of your paint that cannot be felt with your fingernail. These scratches are mostly visible in direct sunlight and other high intensity lighting.

Q: What if I have scratches that I can feel with my fingernail. How do I go about removing them?
A: You’ll need to fill the scratch in with touch up paint and wet sand the blob down using a particular grit of automotive sand paper. Once that is complete you’ll need to polish out the sanding marks with a finer polish.

Q: How do I fix stone chips?
A: Wet sanding is one option. Another is langka. I have never used it, but some people have had great success with it. For more information try LANGKA Paint Chip and Scratch Repair .

Q: Is it possible to polish out swirl marks by hand?
A: No. Unless you are superman, then you will have no luck whatsoever in removing your swirl marks by hand.

Q: If I can’t remove my swirl marks by hand, then what should I use?
A: You should purchase a Porter Cable Random Orbital Polisher (PC). Purchase either a 7424 or 7336 model.

Q: I heard that using machines to polish isn’t safe. Someone told me that I could burn a hole in my paint. Is this true?
A: It depends on the machine. Rotaries can definitely burn a hole in paint even when used by an experienced professional. A random orbital polisher like the PC is completely safe even for a total beginner.

Q: What is the difference between a rotary and an orbital? Why is one safe and the other isn’t?
A: Rotaries spin in a consistent circle. If you leave it on the same spot for too long then the heat generated by the consistent motion can burn a hole in your paint. Conversely, an orbital does not spin in a consistent circle, but rather a random spinning motion. This randomness makes the polisher safe (regardless of how long it is left in the same spot) because it does not generate anywhere near the same amount of heat as a rotary.

Q: I already have a craftsman (or other brand that’s not a PC) orbital. Is this ok to use instead?
A: No. Most other orbitals are one speed (the PC is six) and their motors bog down as soon as they touch your paint rendering them useless. The biggest advantages of the PC are it’s variable speeds and strong motor.

Q: Can I use the foam pad that came with the PC for polishing?
A: I personally wouldn’t. Get yourself some quality foam pads made by lake country and a velcro backing plate.

Q: What is the difference between the 7424 and 7336 models?
A: The 7424 comes packaged with a 5” counterweight while the 7336 comes with a 6“ counterweight.

Q: Why should I care about this?
A: The purpose of the weight is to minimize the vibration of the machine when using it with different size backing plates. You should always match backing plate diameter with counterweight size. For example, 6” plate with a 6” counter weight, and so on.

Q: How is the PC so much better than my hand if it does not generate a lot of heat?
A: True, the PC may be safe and produce minimal heat. But it does have the ability to produce more even and uniform results that are not achievable by hand. The PC may not produce the heat of a rotary, but it still does an excellent job of breaking down the abrasives in medium to fine polishes. Your hand will have a hard time breaking down any abrasive in any polish.

Q: What abrasive polish do you recommend for removing swirl marks?
A: Menzerna Intensive Polish or Zaino ZPC used with a cutting pad for heavy swirls. For minor swirls, haze removal, and final polishing, Zaino ZPC with a polishing pad will do a great job.

Q: Why do you like Menzerna IP and Zaino ZPC?
A: The products are both very user friendly, have no filler, and produce excellent results.

Q: You recommend polishing with a finer polish to remove the haze caused by the more abrasive polish. Why does the more abrasive polish haze to begin with? Is this a defect?
A: No. The more abrasive polishes are supposed to work this way. They will remove the bigger swirls with diminishing abrasives that will level some clear off your car. The abrasives won’t break down enough to leave a totally uniform finish, thus producing a hazy look. To remove the haze you will need to step up to a finer polish and pad combination.

Q: How does polishing remove swirls?
A: As stated above, polishing will remove swirls with diminishing abrasives that will level (remove) some clear off your car.

Q: How do I avoid swirl marks?
A: As stated above, follow proper technique when washing and drying your car. Do not go through car washes with brushes or soft cloths. For proper wash and dry technique see the articles below related to; Washing, Washing in Winter, and Drying.

Q: What is 'Compounding'? I've heard the term used before, but I don't know what it means. Is it the same as polishing?
A: Compounding is the same as polishing, except compounding requires the use of a very abrasive polish, usually a rubbing compound.

Q: Are Menzerna IP and Zaino ZPC considered to be rubbing compounds? Are they very abrasive?
A: No. Neither product is in the same category as a rubbing compound. Both are more of a mild to medium polishes, with IP being a bit more agressive of the two.

Q: Is polishing safe in general?
A: My general rule is to polish a car no more than once a year. Polishing too often, regardless of machine, will eventually wear out your clear coat necessitating a repaint. If proper washing and drying techiques are followed, then the introduction of new swirls should be minimal. Poor wash and dry techniques are the number one cause of swirl marks.

Q: How thick is the paint is on my car?
A: Most clearcoats are as thick as a piece of saran wrap. Further to that, most of the UV blockers in the clear coat are in the top 1/3rd of the clear. This further solidifies the need to refrain from over polishing.

Q: Should I use my PC to apply my mild polish?
A: Yes. Apply it with a foam polishing pad.

Q: What mild polish do you recommend for bringing out the full gloss in the paint and removing the haze from more abrasive polishes?
A: As stated above, Zaino ZPC with a polishing pad will do the job. If you are using Zaino Z2 then I would strongly advise using Zaino ZPC. If you are using Klasse SG as your final sealant, then you can go ahead and use Klasse AIO if you want. Also use it with a polishing pad. For any other wax or sealant, ZPC is the safest bet since it has no filler and will not inhibit bonding of any other sealants to your paint.

Q: Is it really necessary for me to use a mild polish on my paint if I don't have any swirls?
A: Yes. Mild polishes will clean the paint and bring out its full gloss. Six months to one year of driving can take quite a toll on a paint finish.

Q: Why should I seal and/or wax
A: Sealants and waxes will protect your newly detailed surface from the harsh elements of nature.

Q: What is the difference between a sealant and a wax?
A: A sealant is usually a synthetic polymer, while a wax is usually made of carnuba. Synthetic sealants are much more durable than waxes. They also provide better protection because they cross-link and bond to your paint providing a strong barrier. Carnuba waxes do not bond and cross-link. They merely ‘sit’ on top of your paint.

Q: Which one do you recommend?
A: It depends on what you expect out of a protectant, how often you like to wax/seal, and the type of look you like. Sealants give a more glass like look, while carnuba waxes offer more warmth and depth. If you enjoy waxing often, don’t care about durability, and like the warm look, then go with carnuba. If you are lazy and want to wax as minimally as possible while still getting protection and a nice shine, then use a sealant.

Q: How often should I wax or seal?
A: Wax once a month if you choose the wax route. Seal every six months if you choose the sealant route


Q: What does the haze look like?
A: Hazing or ghosting is hard to explain. It will look like a thin film of oil that moves around on the surface in the direction of your last towel swipe.


Source: Detailing 101: Common Question and Answers, What and Where to buy stuff + Technique - BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum - E90Post.com

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Washing and Drying - Facts and Tips

• Use as little pressure as possible with your wash medium

• Allow the shampoo to do most of the cleaning, not your force

• Using a foam gun to pre-soak your vehicle can help minimize adding imperfections

• It's always best practice to wash and dry in the shade, out of direct sunlight

• Always use two wash buckets, one with shampoo and water, and one with rinse water

• Using a Grit Guard insert helps release contamination from your wash mitt

• Use a separate wash media for your wheels and tires, heavy contaminated areas, and lightly contaminated areas

• Pre-treat heavily contaminated areas of your vehicle with a degreaser

• Rinse your wash media as frequently as possible (every panel or so)

• The more contaminated your vehicle is, the more often you should rinse your mitt or sponge

• It's good practice to wash weekly or every two weeks

• Using a shut off valve allows you to quickly remove a hose nozzle without getting wet or running to the water source

• You can use a second Grit Guard insert in your bucket with shampoo and water

• Some shampoos can be used to strip off previous coats of protection when used in high concentration

• Using a Grit Guard insert helps trap contamination on the bottom of the bucket

• Utilize the sheeting method to remove most of the water from your vehicle

• A waffle weave drying towel is the safest product to use to dry your vehicle

• Instead of wiping with your drying towel, blot the paint to minimize adding imperfections

• Using a blower can help remove water between panels, mirrors, gaps, lug nuts and other hard to reach areas

• Optimum No Rinse is an excellent wash option for people without access to a hose

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Polishing - facts and Tips:

• The smaller the section you work in, the better your results will be

• Do not rush the polishing process, it is very time consuming but the results are worth it

• When using a random orbital or dual action buffer, apply roughly 15 ~ 20 lbs of pressure

• Always match the aggressiveness of the product with the aggressiveness of the pad

• Swap out your pad for a fresh one every couple of panels for maximum results

• Keep a bucket of water and Snappy Clean solution by your side to soak your pads as soon as you are done

• Using the proper lighting when polishing is important to assess your results accurately

• Smaller pads offer you more control and can get in tighter areas

• Larger pads can spread products quickly, which is great when applying a sealant

• Rotary buffers should be used by experienced detailers and professionals

• Tape off your trim, glass, and any other area you do not want polish to potentially damage

• Use 3 pea sized drops of polish per working area, many detailers use too much product




Clay Bar Facts and Tips:

• If you drop a piece of clay, throw it away!

• Working in small areas helps make sure your clay lube will not dry up too fast

• Do not use too much pressure when gliding a clay bar across the lubricated surface

• Using a quick detailer that leaves behind a slick surface is often good as a clay bar lubricant

• For most vehicles, we recommend using a fine grade clay bar

• A medium grade clay bar will almost always leave behind some marring that needs to be polished to remove

• Optimum No Rinse mixed with water is a common clay bar lubricant amongst professionals

• You can often tell if there is contamination still on the surface by listening closely as your clay

• Avoid using a clay bar in direct sun light so that your clay lube does not dry up quickly

• Cutting your clay bar into small pieces helps preserve your clay in the event you drop a piece

• Always try to reshape your clay to expose a fresh, clean piece of clay

• When storing your clay bar, mist some of your clay lube in the bag or container to keep is soft and flexible

• It's good practice to re-wash your vehicle after using a clay bar to remove any loosened contamination and to remove excess clay bar residue

• Clay not only works well on your paint, but also your glass, wheels, plastics and other surfaces

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Glazes - Facts and Tips:

• Glazes can help increase the depth and gloss in the paint

• The filling of light imperfections is only temporary and will return over time

• Do not expect a glaze to fill in too many imperfections, only the slightest imperfection can be masked

• If you are using a glaze that utilizes mostly oil based fillers, then top it with a wax since a sealant will not bond properly to it

• Glazes typically cannot be layered, so only one coat is necessary for maximum results



Sealants - Facts and Tips:

• In general, sealants last somewhere between 3 to 6 months

• When applying a sealant, it's best to spread it as thin as possible

• In general, you should give each coat of sealant at least 24 hours to cure and bond to the paint

• Some sealants can be layered to increase the depth and gloss as well as protection

• Sealants can be topped with a wax to get the best of both worlds in terms of looks and durability

• In general, all in one products with protection will last less than a pure sealant


Carnauba waxes - Facts and Tips:

• Carnauba waxes typically last between 3 to 8 weeks

• Apply your wax as thin as possible, only a microscopic layer of wax actually sits on your paint, excess wax is just wasted

• In general you should give each coat of wax 12 to 24 hours cure time

• It is best to work in the shade when applying and removing a wax

• Most waxes can benefit from 2 to 3 layers for maximum depth and gloss

• When your paint stops beading water, it is time to reapply a coat of wax

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Microfiber - Facts and Tips:

• Always remove any tags on microfiber products to minimize the risk of marring the paint

• Always wash new microfiber towels prior to using them for the first time

• Never use fabric softener when washing or drying your towels

• Group your towels together, such as paint safe towels, wheel and tire towels, interior towels, etc.

• Adding distilled white vinegar to your rinse cycle can help further clean your microfiber

• If your towels lose their absorbency, try boiling them to dissolve product and reopen the pores

• Store your clean microfiber towels in labeled Ziploc bags

• Wash around 25 to 30 towels per load

• Always wash your microfiber with microfiber, avoid mixing them with other fabrics



Wheel and Tire Care - Facts and Tips:

• Silicone based tire dressings have a higher tendency to sling up onto your paint

• Water based tire dressings get absorbed into your tires and nourish your rubber

• Properly prepping your tires prior to applying a dressing can increase durability and prevent tire dressing sling

• Always apply your tire dressing in thin, even coats

• Drive your vehicle a few feet forward after applying the first coat of dressing so you can get an even application on the part of the tire that was closest to the ground



Exterior Trim Care - Facts and Tips:
• Having properly cleaned and dressed trim creates more contrast with your paint

• For best results, degrease your trim prior to applying a dressing

• Make sure you are using a dressing that provides UV protection to prevent fading

• Using a brush can help provide a deeper clean to your trim pieces

• Old wax build up can be removed with a degreaser, isopropyl alcohol or even peanut butter



Glass Care - Facts and Tips:

• Use as little glass cleaner as possible to minimize streaking

• Never use ammonia based glass cleaners on tinted windows

• Use multiple towels to clean your glass, this will help reduce streaking

• Always clean your glass when it is cool to the touch and out of direct sunlight

• Protect your exterior glass to make maintaining your glass easier and to improve visibility during poor weather conditions

• Using a glass polish or distilled white vinegar can help remove water spots on glass

Source: Auto Detailing Guide - Detailed Image

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How to: Properly Wash your Car


First some basic rules:

1. You should always wash your car out of direct sunlight. I usually wash my car in the evening once the sun starts to set giving me enough shade on my driveway. This will help to avoid water spots.

2. Don't ever wash your car immediately after driving it. Two reasons for this;
-Your rotors are still hot. Spraying cold water on them will cause them to warp
-Your hood will also be warm making it more susceptible to nasty hard water spots

Washing:

1. Use a nozzle gun that will allow you to control the intensity of the water you are spraying onto your vehicle.

2. Always start with your rims, rubber, and wheel wells. Start with the two front wheels since they are the dirtiest. Fill up one bucket with car wash soap. Spray the rim, rubber, and well with water. Mist the rim lightly. Use full force on the rubber, and well. Dip a sponge in the soap. Start by cleaning the rim. When complete, mist off the soap. Spray water on the sponge at full force to clean the gunk from the rim off of it. Wring out the water when complete. Dip the sponge back in the soap, and clean the well. Spray the soap off when complete. Clean the sponge with water, wring it out and place it back in the bucket. Clean your rubber by using a tire brush. Try scooping only the suds from the top of the bucket onto the bristles. Work the suds into the sidewall until you are satisfied they are clean. Use full pressure water to clean the soap off. Use the full pressure from the nozzle to clean the brush. Place it back in the bucket. Repeat this process for the next 3.

3. When finished step 2, clean the sponge and brush as outlined in step 2. Dump the soap from the bucket and rinse the bucket out with clean water.

4. Fill up the now clean bucket from step 3 and another clean bucket with car wash soap. I usually put 4 or 5 cap fulls of soap in my bucket. It allows my to fill up the bucket with more water half way through my wash, and still maintain good suds. Put two different dedicated 100% chenille wash mitts into each bucket. Do not re-use the sponge from step two on your paint! One bucket/mitt will be used to clean all horizontal surfaces and all vertical surfaces above the middle of the door. The other bucket/mitt will be used to clean all areas of the car below the middle of the door. Why am I doing this you ask? Well, the areas below the door tend to be dirtier, thus you wouldn’t want to use the same mitt on the horizontal areas as it will most likely cause swirls. I use two buckets because it allows me to keep my wash water cleaner during the process. Using one bucket will guarantee dirty water and in turn create swirls.

5. Start by washing the highest part of your car and working your way down.

You should mist the roof and front and rear windows with water. Dip your sponge for your top part of the car into its bucket. Gently glide the mitt over the paint. Try not to apply pressure. The weight of your arm should be enough. Go in a front to back motion, NOT circular. I can't stress this enough. Why? Well, if you get grit trapped in your mitt, it will create swirls in your paint. Front to back swirls are much harder to see than circular, minimizing the damage. Do half the roof. Flip your mitt over and do the other half of the roof. Then use the remaining soap on the mitt to clean the front and rear windows. Rinse the roof and windows with misting water. Rinse the mitt by spraying both sides with full force.

Wring the water out, dip it in the bucket and begin cleaning the hood. Do half the hood with one side of the sponge, the other half with the other side. Rinse the hood with misting water. Clean the mitt and wring it out. Put it back in its dedicated bucket.

Take the bottom mitt and begin cleaning the front grill, headlights and front bumper, fogs, etc. Rinse the area with water. Rinse the mitt and place it back in its bucket.

Move onto the trunk. Take the sponge for the top and clean the trunk lid. Flip it over and clean the back of the trunk above the bumper. Rinse the areas and rinse the mitt.

Take the bottom mitt and clean the area below the bumper. Rinse the area and rinse the mitt.

Take the sponge for the top and clean the rear quarter panel, flip the mitt over and clean the rear door (if you have a sedan) above the molding. Take the remaining soap and clean the frame above the window and the window itself. Rinse the door and quarter panel, window and the mitt.

Do the same thing for front fender and front door. Rinse the area and mitt. Do the opposite side in the same manner.

Take the mitt for the bottom part and clean the front door below the molding. Flip the mitt over and clean the rear door. Use the remaining soap to clean the rocker panel. Rinse the area and the mitt.

Do the opposite side in the same manner.

Your car is now complete!


Just some general notes:

Always mist the area with water before washing it with the mitt.

Always mist the paint when washing the soap off. Directing a high-pressure spray is not good for the clear coat.

Always go in front to back motions with the mitt.

Always glide the mitt over the area.

Always rinse the mitt with a full spray before dipping it back into the buckets. This will ensure the mitt and wash water stays clean


How to: Properly Dry your Car

Once you have completed washing your car you should remove the nozzle from the hose. Turn the water on and let it fall on the horizontal surfaces starting from the roof, and working down to the trunk and hood. This will sheet most of the water off the paint. Once the water has finished sheeting, take a quality cotton or MF towel and blot the remaining water off your paint. Try not to rub. Rubbing is the enemy, even on clean paint. It is still possible to create micro scratches while drying if rubbing.

Use separate towels to dry the rims, paint, glass, and door jambs. If you dry immediately after you wash then you should not get any water spots on your windows, eliminating the need to use ammonia based window cleaners.

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How to: Properly Clay your Car


Make sure you have thoroughly washed and dried your car prior to claying.

Cut the clay bar in half. Take the half and cut it into 15 equal pieces:

2 for the hood
2 for the roof
1 for the trunk lid
1 for the trunk rear and rear bumper
2 for the rear quarter panels (1 per side)
4 for the doors (1 per door)(if you have a sedan)
2 for the front fenders (1 per side)
1 for the front of the car

Take the piece and roll it in to a sphere. Take the sphere and flatten it out into a circle so that it covers the top third of your first two fingers. Spray the first section of the roof with quick detailer. Glide the clay across the area in a front to back motion applying some pressure. Work in 2x2 areas. If you feel your fingers going through the clay, then you are pushing too hard. If the clay is streaking on the paint, then you need more QD. While gliding, you should hear a slight noise and feel some resistance. This is the grit being lifted from the paint. When the resistance and noise stops, dry the QD off with a quality towel. Move onto the next 2x2 section and do the same thing. Once half the section is done, flip the clay over and do the other half of the section. Once the section has been completed throw the piece of clay away. It is too contaminated to use on another section. If you do use it, you will most likely put micro scratches in your clear.

Keep working your way down using each dedicated piece for its area. Flip the clay over when you have completed half a section. Throw the clay away when the section is done.

When complete your car should be as smooth as glass. The next steps should be to remove the swirls (if necessary), remove any hazing from polishing/bring out the full gloss, and seal in the rejuvenated finish with a wax or sealant.

More info posted by a forum member:

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How to: Wash your car in the winter


I know many of the detailing pros in the forum may disagree with the content in this article. Winter washing can be a very tricky subject. My main objective when washing in the winter is to keep the salt and other dirt off of my car, and ensure that it stays swirl free. I’m not necessarily looking for the perfect shine.

I’ve come to accept the reality that my car will not stay clean for more than one day in the winter. No sooner do I wash it, it starts snowing, and the salt trucks are out in full force not long after that. With that said, I decided that it wasn’t worth it for me to freeze my pants off attempting to hand wash my car in my garage with warm water. The effort always seemed wasted. I needed to find a way to get the dirt off without damaging my finish in any way. Thankfully, I found it.

Imho, the most effective and painless way I have found to wash my car in the winter is to go through a touchless automatic car wash found at my local gas station. Touchless washes have many advantages:

- They don’t use any brushes whatsoever. No contact is made with your paint.
- They use recycled water. Many believe this is a bad thing. I don’t think it is. Recycled water tends to be softer, thus reducing the potential for hard water spots. Most reputable places will filter the reused water ensuring it is clean prior to reuse on your car.
- Many automatic car washes will also wash the underbody of your car, another area where salt can stick and cause damage.
- The water pressure is not directed at a concentrated area of your car, rather it is dispersed evenly everywhere with the express purpose of cleaning the finish safely.

The biggest key to avoiding swirls from a touchless wash is NOT TO DRY THE CAR AFTER YOU EXIT THE WASH!!!. Let the car dry on its own. Why you ask? Well, as good as touchless washes are, they will never replace a good home hand wash. There will still be a very thin film of dirt present on your paint. Guess what happens if you rub a towel on your paint with dirt on it? That’s right, nasty swirl marks will appear. Not a good thing. As mentioned before, there is no need to worry about water spots, because the water is recycled.

What I would recommend is wiping off your door-jambs and door sills, as water may find its way in there.

Many people advocate visiting a coin operated hand wash place. My question is why?? It’s really no different than hand washing at home. And I’ve already told you why I don’t like that. I also don’t like the high pressure of the spray nozzle. You could potentially push dirt into your clear coat.

I’m also not a fan of the quick detail in between washing, or worse yet, as a replacement for washing. No amount of qd can replace the thick suds of good car wash soap. No qd can lubricate and safely lift winter dirt and salt off your car safely. I guarantee you will create swirls using this method. Remember, friction is the enemy. The less you touch your car, the less micro marring you put in the clear coat. This goes not only for winter washing and drying, but also for year round washing and drying.

Many people have also expressed concern about the aggressiveness of the soap used at touchless washes. Will it dull my paint? Will it strip my wax or sealant? The answers are no, and no. I’ve been taking my cars thru touchless washes for the last few years and have encountered no problems to date. My klasse sealant glaze always sheets water the first time I hand wash my car in the spring. This tells me that there is still SG left on my paint. The fact that there is still a thin film of dirt present on my paint after existing the wash is another indicator that the soap is not as aggressive as believed.

It’s also very important to clay and use a paint cleaner on your paint during your big spring detail. Performing these two steps are the best ways to rejuvenate your finish after a harsh northern winter.

I can vouch for this method 100%. I have not had any issues with it. In my opinion it is the very best and most practical way to care for your car in the winter.

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How to: Using Zaino in a full detail


So far we all know the basics

Steps
1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Remove swirls with a medium Polish like Menzerna IP (only if necessary)
4. Mild polish with Zaino ZPC Fusion to clean the paint and bring out the gloss
5. Protect the rejuvenated finish with a quality synthetic sealant and/or natural carnuba wax.

For Zaino, steps 1 to 4 will not change. Step 5 will change, and new steps (6, 7, and 8) will need to be added.

If you did not use Zaino ZPC in step 4 then you will need to perform step 5. If you did use ZPC, then you can skip step 5.

Step 5 - Wash with any quality car wash soap to remove the leftover oil/filler/protection from the mild polish used in step 4. You may be wondering why this is necessary if any polish other ZPC is being used prior to Zaino. The reason for this is that most other polishes leave some oil and filler behind on the paint that will shorten the durability of the Z2 or Z5. Last winter I applied Z1 and Z5 directly over top of Klasse AIO. When I finally got around to washing the car in April, my Z5 protection was splotchy. Some areas were repelling water very well, while others were pooling. I attribute this to the AIO. I may have applied it a bit thicker in some areas than others (can never get it perfect). Those thicker areas were likely the pooling areas I witnessed when washing. You may also be wondering why/how Klasse SG can work so well over AIO without a car wash in between. This is because they are both made from the same acrylic and work together. AIO will not inhibit SG’s bonding.

Step 6 – Once the wash and dry is complete, you can proceed to begin the Zaino process. This process should go as follows:

1. Mix 1 ounce of Z2 pro or Z5 (your choice) with 4 to 5 drops of ZFX. ZFX will allow you to apply a maximum of 3 coats of Z2 pro or Z5 all in the same day. Shake very well for 90 seconds. Let the Z2/Z5 and ZFX mixture sit for 5 minutes. Once the 5 minutes has elapsed, shake the bottle again for another 10 seconds. Now you’re ready to apply Z2/Z5. Side note: Do not use more than two ounces of Z2/Z5 and 10 drops of ZFX. Meaning, 3 ounces of Z2/Z5 and 15 drops of ZFX will not work.

2. Place a dime-sized amount of Z2/Z5 on your applicator (I prefer foam applicators covered with short terry strands). Apply the polish in front to back motions on all horizontal panels and top to bottom motions on all vertical panels. If you have trouble spreading the Z2/Z5 evenly, then give your applicator a shot of Z6 QD. Also use the dime sized drop for as many sections as possible before adding another drop of polish. That one-ounce of Z2/Z5 should be enough to do 3 coats on your car. You will end up applying it so thin that you’ll barely see it. Don’t worry; this is how it is supposed to be. A little goes a long way. Let the polish haze for 20 minutes.

3. Once it has hazed, buff it off with any quality MF or cotton towel.

4. QD the car with Z6. This will help remove any Z2/Z5 residue you may have missed. It will also help the next coat of Z2/Z5 to apply easier as well as increase gloss.

Step 7 – Repeat Step 6 two more times.

Step 8 – Finish off by applying 1 coat of Z8 Grand Finale Spray Seal.

See this link for Z8 application instructions:

Z-8 Grand Finale Spray Seal: Zaino Store

That’s it! You’re done. Enjoy the beautiful shine!!

Some questions you may have:

Q: Should I use Z2 Pro or Z5?
A: Honestly, regardless of car colour, use Z2 Pro. Z2 Pro is the new replacement for the original Z2. It is a new formula and is much improved (if that’s possible) over the old Z2. The only reason I mention Z5 is so people know it is still ok to use if they already have some.

Q: I have some old Z2; can I still use that instead?
A: Yes. ZFX and Z8 will work with the old formula of Z2 equally well.

Q: Do I need to use ZFX? Can I apply Z2/Z5 without it? I don’t want to do multiple coats during my detail.
A: No you don’t have to use ZFX but you must use Z1 instead. Z1 is applied the same way that Z2 Pro and Z5 are applied. Once it hazes, Z2 or Z5 should be applied directly over top (do not buff off the Z1 before applying the Z2/Z5, leave it). Once the Z2/Z5 hazes it can be buffed together with the Z1 underneath. This method will limit you to applying one coat of Z2/Z5 in one 24-hour period.

Q: Do I need to use Z1 every time I want to apply Z2 or Z5?
A: No. Only use Z1 after every ten coats of Z2/Z5 or every 6 months, whichever occurs first. Z1 is meant to facilitate in the bonding of the Z2/Z5 to your bare paint.

Q: If I use ZFX and then want to apply another coat of Z2/Z5, do I need to use ZFX again?
A: If you are only going to apply one coat of Z2/Z5, then you do not need to use ZFX again. Just use Z2/Z5 as-is. However, if you plan on applying multiple coats of Z2/Z5 in one day, then yes, you will need ZFX.

Q: Can I alternate between Z2 and Z5? Are the two products compatible with eachother?
A: Yes you can alternate, and yes they are compatible.

Q: Do I really need to use Z8?
A: No. But it will add to the depth and gloss of your paint.

Q: Do I really need to use Z6 between coats of Z2/Z5?
A: No. Again this is just for the extra touch.

Q: Do I need to use Z7 as my car wash?
A: No. Any quality car wash will do. But you will be hard pressed to find a car wash better than Z7.

Q: If I just want bare bones Zaino, what should I get?
A: ZFX or Z1 and Z2 Pro or Z5. That’s it!

Q: Do I need to add a carnuba wax on top of my Zaino layers?
A: No. Carnuba should only be used if you want to alter the look of your Zaino. I personally would advise against topping your Zaino with carnuba. Doing this will negate three of Zaino's four biggest benefits. Those being the slickness, shine, and layerability, with the fourth being durability. Zaino is a product that looks great on its own. I love the look of Z5 on my car.

Source: Detailing 101: Common Question and Answers, What and Where to buy stuff + Technique - BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum - E90Post.com

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What You Should Know About Interior Detailing

While a great deal of emphasis is placed on paint finishing in detailing, little information is disseminated about what is needed to properly clean vehicle interiors. This article is an attempt to provide detailers with an entire process for interior detailing including: interior materials, detail chemicals, detail equipment and tools.

When a detailer attempts to clean the interior of a vehicle, he must know all of the different materials involved. each material will require different cleaning procedures. This means the detailer must have a full understanding of all these various materials and what the problems might be and how to solve them. The materials are: fabric or vinyl (headliners); fabric, vinyl or plastic (trim); vinyl (dashboards); vinyl, plastic and clear plastic covers (panels); nylon (carpets); and vinyl-protected leather, fabric or vinyl (seats) I will not address the particulars of each of these materials, but as a detailer you must have a complete knowledge of what they are, the problems you can encounter and the knowledge to correct the problems.


Interior chemicals
Professional detailers should only use chemicals that are formulated to clean a particular interior material. Carpet shampoo should be used for carpets, leather cleaner for leather, glass cleaner for windows, etc. Too many detailers and chemical suppliers encourage the use of chemicals formulated for other purposes as interior chemicals. This can have harmful effects on the material. For example, a typical practice of many detailers, encouraged by misguided and unprofessional chemical suppliers, is to use an engine degreaser for interior cleaning on carpets, vinyl and leather. Will it clean? Yes, this chemical will clean, but the difference is that the materials in an engine (metal, rubber, etc.) are much different than more delicate interior materials. It would be like washing your car with dishwashing detergent or taking a bath in laundry detergent.

An engine degreaser has a pH of 12 to 14, due to the inclusion of caustics, like sodium hydroxide, which can destroy carpet and upholstery fibers and damage leather very easily. even the use of a less-aggressive, all-purpose cleaner on carpets is not a good practice because they lack the brighteners and softeners that are formulated into the carpet shampoo for obvious reasons.

The list of chemicals a detailer should use for interior cleaning includes: carpet and upholstery shampoo; vinyl cleaners; leather cleaners; low pH all-purpose cleaners; stain removers (protein, grease, red dye, coffee/tea, rust and pet stains); glass cleaner (ready-to-use or concentrated); leather conditioners; protectants; water-based silicone dressings; biological odor eliminators; fragrances; equipment and tools.

Many detailers cannot afford all the equipment and tools listed below, but they are listed so you know what a professional detailer should have in his arsenal to do the work correctly. These items are: air compressor with blow guns (an essential); wet/dry vacuum; heated soil extractor (absolutely essential); vapor steamer (not essential, but very useful for cleaning hard surfaces and removing stains); ozone generator (not essential, but does wonders in removing odors and mold spores from air-conditioning systems); air or electric rotary shampoo tool; nylon scrub brushes; small detail brushes; Scrubbie pads (a Teflon-net-covered sponge for scrubbing vinyl, leather and plastic surfaces); applicator pads (for dressing and leather conditioners); and towels (different colors for cleaning chemicals and windows).


The process
With a working knowledge of all the materials and problems you can encounter in detailing the interior and a knowledge of the chemicals, equipment, tools and supplies needed to do the job, the next thing you need is a process that allows you and your employees to get the job done correctly and quickly without sacrificing quality.
The following procedures are intended to give you a step-by-step process to completely detail the interior of a vehicle. They are not intended to teach anyone how to detail, but simply to show you what steps to follow to avoid missing anything and wasting time and motion.

Interior cleaning procedures:
1. read a job service order for instructions on specific thing to do.
2. open doors and evaluate condition of interior.
3. remove floor mats (front and back and give to person cleaning trunk or clean/ shampoo immediately and place near the rear of the vehicle to dry).
4. Push front seat all the way back
5. use loose-items bag for loose items (front and back), use a separate bag for glove box and one for console. Set bags on rear seat.
6. remove ashtrays (front and back). Clean and dry them. before replacing, clean area around ashtray.
7. Flip down sun visors.
8. With the air blower, blow out the entire interior (front and back), concentrating on dash, panel, vents, under the seats and cracks and crevices in seats.
9. Vacuum the entire interior—carpets, seats, panels, etc.
10. Apply appropriate stain removers (front and back) to all heavy stains on carpets, seats, door panels, etc.

Cleaning steps:
11. Start on the driver’s side and clean headliner, front half.
12. Clean sun visors, visor mirror and rearview mirror.
13. Clean trim around doors and front window.
14. Clean/scrub dashboard.
15. Clean panel and steering column and glove box.
16. Scrub spots/stains on front carpets
17. Apply shampoo and friction-shampoo carpets (if necessary).
18. using extractor, extract all shampoo and dirt residue

Fabric seats:
19. remove spots/stains on fabric seats.
20. Apply shampoo and friction-shampoo seats (if necessary).
21. using extractor, extract all shampoo and dirt residue.
22. using Scrubbie, clean/scrub center console.

Vinyl/leather seats:
23. Scrub vinyl/leather upholstery with Scrubbie or rotary shampooer and wipe dry.
24. using Scrubbie clean/scrub center console.
25. Clean/shampoo front seat belts.
26. Push the front seat all the way forward.
27. Scrub spots/stains on front door panels.
28. Clean/shampoo door panels using either a Scrubbie, nylon scrub brush or rotary shampooer. Wipe dry and/or extract residue.
29. Spray door jamb and door edges with all-purpose cleaner and wipe dry.

Rear:
30. Place loose-items bag on front seat.
31. Clean the headliner, back half from front to rear.
32. Clean rear window deck (be sure to blow out dirt near window).

Fabric seats:
See steps 19 through 22

Vinyl/leather seats:
See steps 23 to 27
33. Clean/shampoo back of front seat following procedures for either fabric or vinyl/leather upholstery.
34. remove spots/stains on rear carpets.
35. Apply shampoo and friction-shampoo carpets (if necessary).
36. using extractor, extract all shampoo and dirt residue.
37. Scrub spots/stains on rear door panels.
38. Clean/shampoo rear door panels using either Scrubbie, nylon scrub brush or rotary shampooer. Wipe dry and/or extract residue.
39. Spray door jamb and door edges with all-purpose cleaner (as needed) and wipe dry.

Dressing/conditioning procedure:
40. Start on the driver’s side and move front to back, dressing all vinyl, leather and rubber in the interior. Wipe off with dry towel for satin finish.

Window-cleaning procedure:
41. Spray all interior windows and mirrors with glass cleaner.
42. using window towel, clean each window individually and dry.
43. Put all windows down and clean top edge, put up again.

Final inspection procedure:
44. make complete check of interior, looking for dirt on carpets, improper application of dressing, dirty/smeared windows and correct.
45. Do a final vacuum (if necessary).
46. Spray deodorizer under front seats.
47. Put in plastic floor mat, seat cover, litter bag.
48. Put in window sticker reminder (if used).
Keep in mind that this is my approach to interior cleaning. It is not the only approach and may not be the best, but it is a proven methodology that you might want to use that saves wasted motion and ensures everything is completed properly the first time.[/QUOTE]

Source: What You Should Know About Interior Detailing - Autopia.org

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EazyD

Had a bad experience with the touchless wash.. :/ It sprayed a blue detergent everywhere and didn't completely get rinsed off of my white car. Especially in the door jambs/sills. Yikes!

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Pearl White 2010 370Z Sport, Stillen CBE, tint, K&N drop-in filters, GT-R start button, Kenwood DNX-6980 with backup cam, LED bulbs, Raceseng shift knob.