Foam Pad Options

JARblue · 03-18-2021, 01:02 PM

My buddy picked up a DA polisher for his Q60. The thing is swirled and scratched to hell. Nothing too deep; just extremely noticeable swirls commonly seen on black cars. I'm going to order a bunch of LC pads for him and show him how to do a proper detail.

So my question is what specific pads should I get for this job? I think it is bad enough that we should do at least one pass of cutting or heavy polishing, one pass of medium-light polishing and then a finish pad.

For the initial cutting or heavy polishing stage, I am looking at the Orange, Cyan, or Pink pads.
For the next polishing stage, I am looking at the Green, White or Tangerine pads.
For the finishing stage, I am looking at Black or Crimson pads.

Anyone have any suggestions or guidance for the application of Adam's Compound/Polish/Liquid Sealant/Buttery Wax products? Or any generic input on the various pads being considered?

Here are the colors and the description from Lake Country:

( Click to show/hide )

Spooler · 03-18-2021, 01:33 PM

Go to Buffdaddy.com

You will want a firm pad for a black car. I would suggest M100 only where needed. Then M205 for the last stage. You will have to trial a few spots to get your routine down. I have been using Mequiar's since the 1980's. That is all I will use. Most of the time it is all in your technique.

JARblue · 03-18-2021, 02:06 PM

Just looking for pad suggestions

Firm pads are available in all different levels of cutting aggression. I'm looking for a little more detail than "firm" lol

cv129 · 03-18-2021, 02:24 PM

I’m still on peasant grade detailing supplies hahaha. I’ve only used HF pads and DA, and off the shelf compounds, both relatively weak, works for me tho to stay on the safe side.

Good luck and have fun!

Spooler · 03-18-2021, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

Just looking for pad suggestions

Firm pads are available in all different levels of cutting aggression. I'm looking for a little more detail than "firm" lol

White and Yellow.

Spooler · 03-18-2021, 02:26 PM

What DA did he get? Rupees I hope.

Spooler · 03-18-2021, 02:31 PM

You may only need the M100 for the top of the car where it get's water spots. Don't try to get the front perfect due to bug marks or you may burn the paint. Hard to do with a DA. That will be an area where you will need to back off to keep the clear thickness in good shape. Plus the paint has a flex agent in it. Easy to make a mistake.

Spooler · 03-18-2021, 02:34 PM

I started detailing cars in the 80's with an old heavy machine and progressed to a variable speed Black and decker buffer. I got going with the DA back in 2017. It is much easier to not make a mistake.

JARblue · 03-18-2021, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

White and Yellow.

I have all the Meguiar's foam pads in 4 inch. They work fine. But I don't want to pay $18 apiece for the 7 inch versions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

What DA did he get? Rupees I hope.

HF

I told him that's ok since we're going to use quality detailing products and get some decent foam pads. The equipment will be perfectly fine for basic paint correction. The real key is to use proper technique anyway, so that's mostly what I'm helping him out with.

Spooler · 03-18-2021, 02:47 PM

M205 may be all you need. The M100 is just for where it is bad. M205 will knock the swirls right out. Back in the day I would add grit to Finishing compound for additional cutting properties. I do not recommend that for the average person.
I have wet sanded and polished a few cars that we have painted. That is nerve racking.

JARblue · 03-18-2021, 02:53 PM

The plan is to start with the polish and see how it fairs. But I fully expect we'll have to pull out the compound. It's pretty serious swirls.

Spooler · 03-18-2021, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

The plan is to start with the polish and see how it fairs. But I fully expect we'll have to pull out the compound. It's pretty serious swirls.

Are they love marks going left and right or swirls from a previous polishing with a circular buffer?

cv129 · 03-18-2021, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

You may only need the M100 for the top of the car where it get's water spots. Don't try to get the front perfect due to bug marks or you may burn the paint. Hard to do with a DA. That will be an area where you will need to back off to keep the clear thickness in good shape. Plus the paint has a flex agent in it. Easy to make a mistake.

Should be reiterated to all beginners, customers, even some professional detailers, to not blindly chase perfection.

Spooler · 03-18-2021, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cv129

Should be reiterated to all beginners, customers, even some professional detailers, to not blindly chase perfection.

That flex agent makes the clear/paint flexible. You can burn that chit right off the car and not know it until months later when it starts to turn.

Spooler · 03-18-2021, 04:24 PM

I see folks on Youtube polishing their cars like crazy all the time. The thing is, they never keep them long. They will never figure out what they are doing is not what you should be doing. They just pass it on to the next owner to deal with IF it happens.

03-18-2021, 01:02 PM	#1 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	Foam Pad Options My buddy picked up a DA polisher for his Q60. The thing is swirled and scratched to hell. Nothing too deep; just extremely noticeable swirls commonly seen on black cars. I'm going to order a bunch of LC pads for him and show him how to do a proper detail. So my question is what specific pads should I get for this job? I think it is bad enough that we should do at least one pass of cutting or heavy polishing, one pass of medium-light polishing and then a finish pad. For the initial cutting or heavy polishing stage, I am looking at the Orange, Cyan, or Pink pads. For the next polishing stage, I am looking at the Green, White or Tangerine pads. For the finishing stage, I am looking at Black or Crimson pads. Anyone have any suggestions or guidance for the application of Adam's Compound/Polish/Liquid Sealant/Buttery Wax products? Or any generic input on the various pads being considered? Here are the colors and the description from Lake Country: ( Click to show/hide ) Purple Cutting Foam Firm, high strength, most aggressive foam for cutting Yellow Cutting Foam Firm, high strength foam for cutting Orange Light Cutting Foam Firm, high strength, European Prepolymer foam for light cutting and scratch removal, produces semi-gloss finish Green Light Polishing Foam Semi-soft , high strength foam for light polishing White Polishing Foam Semi-firm, high strength foam for polishing. Available in Natural and European Prepolymer foams Black Finishing Foam Soft, high strength foam for waxing or glazing Blue Final Finishing Foam Extra soft, high strength foam for one-step polishes and sealants Red Final Finishing Foam Extra soft, high strength foam for one-step polishes and sealants Gold Ultra Finishing Foam Extra soft, high strength for sealants, softest foam in the market Cyan Heavy Polishing Non-Reticulated Prepolymer foam designed for compounding and swirl removal. Used to restore oxidized and heavily swirled paint. Tangerine Light Polishing Foam for light to moderate defect removal and polishing. Slightly less aggressive than our Orange foam. Crimson Ultra Finishing Soft foam designed for applying waxes, glazes and sealants. Pink Heavy Polishing Foam Semi-firm, high strength foam for light cutting or heavier polishing axmea? and SeeThruHead like this. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

03-18-2021, 01:33 PM	#2 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,803 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	Go to Buffdaddy.com You will want a firm pad for a black car. I would suggest M100 only where needed. Then M205 for the last stage. You will have to trial a few spots to get your routine down. I have been using Mequiar's since the 1980's. That is all I will use. Most of the time it is all in your technique. JARblue likes this.

03-18-2021, 02:06 PM	#3 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	Just looking for pad suggestions Firm pads are available in all different levels of cutting aggression. I'm looking for a little more detail than "firm" lol __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

03-18-2021, 02:24 PM	#4 (permalink)
cv129 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 3,223 Drives: 09 Nismo, 16 Nismo Rep Power: 163995	I’m still on peasant grade detailing supplies hahaha. I’ve only used HF pads and DA, and off the shelf compounds, both relatively weak, works for me tho to stay on the safe side. Good luck and have fun! JARblue likes this. __________________ Setrab \| RE-71 \| SPL \| JRZ \| Nismo \| ARK \| Whiteline \| RacingBrake \| CJM Oil Pan \| Ti shield

03-18-2021, 02:26 PM	#6 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,803 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	What DA did he get? Rupees I hope. JARblue likes this.

03-18-2021, 02:31 PM	#7 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,803 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	You may only need the M100 for the top of the car where it get's water spots. Don't try to get the front perfect due to bug marks or you may burn the paint. Hard to do with a DA. That will be an area where you will need to back off to keep the clear thickness in good shape. Plus the paint has a flex agent in it. Easy to make a mistake. JARblue likes this.

03-18-2021, 02:34 PM	#8 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,803 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	I started detailing cars in the 80's with an old heavy machine and progressed to a variable speed Black and decker buffer. I got going with the DA back in 2017. It is much easier to not make a mistake. JARblue likes this.

03-18-2021, 02:47 PM	#10 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,803 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	M205 may be all you need. The M100 is just for where it is bad. M205 will knock the swirls right out. Back in the day I would add grit to Finishing compound for additional cutting properties. I do not recommend that for the average person. I have wet sanded and polished a few cars that we have painted. That is nerve racking. JARblue likes this. Last edited by Spooler; 03-18-2021 at 02:49 PM.

03-18-2021, 02:53 PM	#11 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	The plan is to start with the polish and see how it fairs. But I fully expect we'll have to pull out the compound. It's pretty serious swirls. cv129 likes this. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

03-18-2021, 04:24 PM	#15 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,803 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	I see folks on Youtube polishing their cars like crazy all the time. The thing is, they never keep them long. They will never figure out what they are doing is not what you should be doing. They just pass it on to the next owner to deal with IF it happens. cv129 likes this.

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