Hello everyone, I need some advice, recently I noticed that my car paint felt a bit harsh to the touch. (not smooth) What I need advice is first I have
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05-26-2015, 02:20 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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using different type of brands to wash/wax car
Hello everyone,
I need some advice, recently I noticed that my car paint felt a bit harsh to the touch. (not smooth) What I need advice is first I have Ice Turtle car wash, if I need to remove any wax should I wash the car with just a tiny bit of dish soap, then use the Turtle car wash? Second I have mothers 80G clay that I want to use on it after i wash it and dry it. Then I want to use Turtles Ice paint sealant and then use their turtle Ice wax to give it a good nice shine. First and for most would it be okay to use a little dish soap to remove wax. Should just use the turtle car wash and avoid using the dish soap. I never ever in my life used it but have heard that a tiny amount will remove any wax on the car. Second is it okay to use the mothers clay system and use the turtle wax sealant. I am guessing that mixing brands should not be an issue but I want to make sure. Any help would be great. I know that Turtle wax is not the best but I like it and it is a synthetic wax which is the easiest to apply and remove according to what I have read here. Thanks,
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05-26-2015, 03:13 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Ok so first off, look up all posts a stickys by the Junkman, he will go over every nuance in detail of detailing.
On to your query. If the paint feels rough to the touch you likely have contaminants on the paint causing this to occur, even after the car is washed, they remain on the paint causing the rough surface. Dawn wash will not hurt anything, as claying your car will remove most of the protection you had on their regardless if not every last drop. Clay is the step you need to take to remove this rough feeling. Wash the car thoroughly, then get a MILD clay bar which the one you have likely is. Go watch any of 100 youtube videos on how to clay a car properly. After claying, you will need to ideally, Polish the car to restore the shine and luster and remove the marring caused by the clay bar. Likely with our soft clear, you will have swirls all over the car once done with a clay bar. Now you polish the car up to a deep deep shine, then protect all of your hard work with a paint sealant or a nice quality wax or synthetic substitute. Mix brands all you want, they all use the same stuff anyway with different scents! Be aware, if you DO NOT polish after the clay, you likely wont be satisfied if you are concerned with paint condition. Waxing after clay simply locks in and protects all the micro marring scratches you just induced with the clay bar!
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05-26-2015, 03:21 PM | #3 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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05-26-2015, 03:21 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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To be completely clear though, once you clay the car, you will have no wax, sealant, or protection between the paint and the elements. You MUST at the very least, re-wax a car after clay baring it. This would be the least quality, but mandatory steps to take after claying.
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05-26-2015, 03:24 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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I highly recommend you look up Junkman on here he has step by step videos on this.
Polishing is a different animal. I use a Porter Cable 7424xp polisher with Adams three step polish system, but I know they have fewer step systems now, and some damage does not require the use of a very abrasive polish. Each pad corresponds with a polish to cut away the damage in the clear coat. It is labor and time intensive. I do it because I love to get hands on with my car in every way that I can and fix whatever I can myself before taking it to someone. If you dont have a free weekend, forget polishing yourself! Just some food for thought, again go check the Junkman out! He has videos here and on youtube.
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05-26-2015, 03:27 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Also if we are getting into it, you will need to have quality microfiber towels for each step of the detailing process. I digress. I am completely OCD about my cars appearance, and I bought a black Z go figure. These little things, do make a big difference in the final result if you are going to put in the money, time and effort, to do it, do it right. If not, I am sure local detailers can do it for the same money or less.
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05-26-2015, 03:29 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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The product you use means almost nothing. It is all about technique. You can get beautiful results using cheap auto parts store products (like Turtle Wax) using the right techniques. And you can fuck your paint up royally using very expensive specialty products using the wrong techniques.
The one thing where the product you use means something is the towels you use to touch your paint. Even good technique won't protect it from crappy towels. Stop touching your paint and spend the next few days of your life watching Junkman videos. I'm serious. His channel is Junkman2000 on Youtube.
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05-26-2015, 03:29 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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05-27-2015, 09:03 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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Thanks everyone, I actually sat through a full afternoon kicked my feet up and grabbed some popcorn and watched junkman's videos. Very impressive, I will be buying myself the porter cable polisher with the 6 inch plate. I have already ordered what I fully need.
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05-27-2015, 09:03 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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Nice job
Be careful though. As Junkman is fond of saying ... the rabbit hole is deep
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05-27-2015, 09:32 AM | #12 (permalink) |
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Did you mean a 5-INCH back plate? If you didn't, you weren't paying attention. A 6" back plate is not what a novice should start with. You need a smaller back plate so that you can use a smaller pad. I cover that in my machine polishing for novices videos.
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05-27-2015, 11:53 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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Yeah I did mean a 5 inch plate with a 5.5 hex logic pad. But instead of buying it from the chemical guys I will be buying it from amazon. LOL
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05-27-2015, 12:00 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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@Junkman2008
How many times can I do this to my clear coat before I get to close to the paint? LOL That 5 inch plate was very difficult to find on amazon, my local Lowes did not have a 5inch plate.
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05-27-2015, 01:23 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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The idea is you only have to paint correct the whole car ONCE. Even brand new cars from the dealership have shipping/industrial crap and/or swirls all over them with zero mileage on the odometer.
But once you have done this paint correction, then you only touch the paint using proper technique and equipment. This keeps your paint looking beautiful. You shouldn't have to clay or polish anything except small areas when something like bird crap or a light scratch happens. Light touch ups done properly could probably be done for the life of the car. All that said, the answer to your question, it probably depends on the product/pad you're using. A light cut will allow you to polish a lot more than a heavier cut. The whole car can probably handle several heavy cut polishes, but ideally you don't ever come close to worrying about it
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