using different type of brands to wash/wax car

kidkotic2001 · 05-27-2015, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

The idea is you only have to paint correct the whole car ONCE. Even brand new cars from the dealership have shipping/industrial crap and/or swirls all over them with zero mileage on the odometer.

But once you have done this paint correction, then you only touch the paint using proper technique and equipment. This keeps your paint looking beautiful. You shouldn't have to clay or polish anything except small areas when something like bird crap or a light scratch happens. Light touch ups done properly could probably be done for the life of the car.

All that said, the answer to your question, it probably depends on the product/pad you're using. A light cut will allow you to polish a lot more than a heavier cut. The whole car can probably handle several heavy cut polishes, but ideally you don't ever come close to worrying about it

I was referring to the question the great Junkman gets all the time. In the vid he mentions it and then goes on to explain what you are talking about. I was showing that I was paying attention.

JARblue · 05-27-2015, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kidkotic2001

I was referring to the question the great Junkman gets all the time. In the vid he mentions it and then goes on to explain what you are talking about. I was showing that I was paying attention.

Junkman2008 · 05-27-2015, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

The idea is you only have to paint correct the whole car ONCE.

He wasn't serious, he was making a funny.

zpower86 · 05-29-2015, 06:54 PM

I've used the mothers clay bar kit and its awesome. Definitely recommended. Get plenty of detail spray.

Definitely wax after claying.

Brand wise, I prefer Adams Polishes and Griot's. http://www.griotsgarage.com/category/car+care.do

Best tip I can give is to get good microfiber towels. The blue Griots towels are amazing. Only wash the towels with other microfiber.

Adams polishes has very good instructional videos. They are good quality aren't too long.
https://adamspolishes.com/video

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zpower86 · 05-29-2015, 07:07 PM

There are 3 tips I've learned from the adams videos:
1) It's ok to let the soap dry on the car (if not in direct sunlight). Once u rinse it will come off. (I used to rush around rinsing and washing the car not letting anything dry).
2) If claying -- after you wash, instead of drying the car right away, mist the entire car with detail spray and then go straight to claying. The detail spray only leaves slight residue which comes off as you clay the car.
3) You can clay the entire car at once. As you clay, skip buffing the detail spray residue off. After you're done claying, wax over the detail spray residue. This way you're only buffing once. (Assuming no sunlight)

So you save lots of time by not drying and buffing multiple times... I'm not sure if you can do this with ALL brands. I have done this on my black Z with Adams and Griots and the results were awesome.

Junkman2008 · 05-29-2015, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zpower86

... 3) After you're done claying, wax over the detail spray residue. This way you're only buffing once. (Assuming no sunlight).

I'm sorry but that would look like crap under plenty of light. Adam likes to take shortcuts like buffing with a compound and then buffing right behind that with a polish, WITHOUT removing the compound first. That is a ridiculous way to do paint correction and the only reason he sells that method is to sell products to people who may not want to spend the time that it takes to do paint correction correctly. That's just one of the reasons I quit helping him out. I'm not going to sell a lie to anyone who is going to quickly realize that there is some work involved in paint correction when you are using a safe polisher like the PC.

zpower86 · 05-29-2015, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

I'm sorry but that would look like crap under plenty of light. Adam likes to take shortcuts like buffing with a compound and then buffing right behind that with a polish, WITHOUT removing the compound first. That is a ridiculous way to do paint correction and the only reason he sells that method is to sell products to people who may not want to spend the time that it takes to do paint correction correctly. That's just one of the reasons I quit helping him out. I'm not going to sell a lie to anyone who is going to quickly realize that there is some work involved in paint correction when you are using a safe polisher like the PC.

I've done it both ways. If you're in a pinch, it doesn't seem to hurt.

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05-29-2015, 06:54 PM	#19 (permalink)
zpower86 Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 189 Drives: 2011 Nissan 370Z Rep Power: 14	using different type of brands to wash/wax car I've used the mothers clay bar kit and its awesome. Definitely recommended. Get plenty of detail spray. Definitely wax after claying. Brand wise, I prefer Adams Polishes and Griot's. http://www.griotsgarage.com/category/car+care.do Best tip I can give is to get good microfiber towels. The blue Griots towels are amazing. Only wash the towels with other microfiber. Adams polishes has very good instructional videos. They are good quality aren't too long. https://adamspolishes.com/video Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ Charles K 2011 Nissan 370Z, Black, 7BS youtube.com/rotarypower86 Last edited by zpower86; 05-29-2015 at 07:15 PM.

05-29-2015, 07:07 PM	#20 (permalink)
zpower86 Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 189 Drives: 2011 Nissan 370Z Rep Power: 14	using different type of brands to wash/wax car There are 3 tips I've learned from the adams videos: 1) It's ok to let the soap dry on the car (if not in direct sunlight). Once u rinse it will come off. (I used to rush around rinsing and washing the car not letting anything dry). 2) If claying -- after you wash, instead of drying the car right away, mist the entire car with detail spray and then go straight to claying. The detail spray only leaves slight residue which comes off as you clay the car. 3) You can clay the entire car at once. As you clay, skip buffing the detail spray residue off. After you're done claying, wax over the detail spray residue. This way you're only buffing once. (Assuming no sunlight) So you save lots of time by not drying and buffing multiple times... I'm not sure if you can do this with ALL brands. I have done this on my black Z with Adams and Griots and the results were awesome. __________________ Charles K 2011 Nissan 370Z, Black, 7BS youtube.com/rotarypower86 Last edited by zpower86; 05-29-2015 at 07:22 PM.

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