SPL Eccentric lockout kit question - Lockout camber arms only?

sandersd · 01-13-2015, 07:46 PM

Agreed. The lockout kit is not absolutely required but is recommended to eliminate the second point of adjustment. Personally I would not forgo the lockout kit and leave the adjustment bolt in - it would feel incomplete and would bug me to no end.

Hotrodz · 01-13-2015, 08:50 PM

Great information guy +1 to you both!!!

Rangerz · 01-18-2015, 12:23 AM

Just installed the SPL camber links and eccentric lock out tonight. The whole purpose of theSPL arms is to have maximum control with no chance of camber adjustments slipping. The stock adjuster while adequate can still turn slip over time. One adjustment point is better for overall control over your camber andd toe.

Zipper 104 · 03-30-2015, 12:07 AM

Great thread. It made it clear that I ought to get the lockouts for my SPL camber arms so all the camber adjustment is handled by the arms themselves.

Now my issue.....I have the SPC toe bolts for toe adustment on the lower spring buckets but have not installed them yet. I have the template for elongating the holes. The instructions make no mention at all of elongating the holes to the INBOARD side only of the stock holes. Is this right?
It appears that if I put the template in place to mark the hole it leads me to believe one ought to elongate the stock hole in both inboard and OUTBOARD directions since the template seems to be symmetrical. OR, do I just align the template to the outboard edge of the stock hole and elongate to inboard? I have not been able to find much other than toe bolt installs on 350s. Everything I've seen says to elongate the holes in only the one direction....inboard. Is the 370 different, or once the car is lowered, inboard is the only direction you'll need adjust to get the toe back to spec after the camber is set?
Sorry if I haven't made this clear.....if I were to just drag my butt under my car and take a good look it might be obvious and I wouldn't need to be asking this question.

Thanks. 104

dP3NGU1N · 03-30-2015, 02:07 PM

The template is there to give the max range of adjustability afforded by the increased offset of the bolt. There is no realistic use for elongating the outboard holes. You only need the inboard holes.

Zipper 104 · 03-30-2015, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dP3NGU1N

The template is there to give the max range of adjustability afforded by the increased offset of the bolt. There is no realistic use for elongating the outboard holes. You only need the inboard holes.

Thanks. 104

takjak2 · 04-05-2015, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dP3NGU1N

The template is there to give the max range of adjustability afforded by the increased offset of the bolt. There is no realistic use for elongating the outboard holes. You only need the inboard holes.

If you don't elongate in both directions, the bolt can only be turned half way in each direction. Someone not paying attention could crank on it and jimmy it up. Like if you went for an alignment and got the newbie at Firestone or some such.

You also won't be gaining the full range of toe-in.

sandersd · 04-05-2015, 09:29 PM

Whether lowered on Swifts or on coilovers w/ SPL, I haven't needed the toe bolts to bring alignment within spec. Why do it if you don't need it?

Hotrodz · 04-05-2015, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandersd

Whether lowered on Swifts or on coilovers w/ SPL, I haven't needed the toe bolts to bring alignment within spec. Why do it if you don't need it?

You are one of the few, but many of us needed more adjustment. Or you can run camber at -2 or better front and rear without.

4TthAnnyZ · 04-27-2015, 03:14 PM

The "within spec" window on these cars is pretty big. So while you can get "within spec", it might not be where you really need it to be. That's why you get the toe bolts and elongate the holes.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

synolimit · 04-27-2015, 09:55 PM

In my experience I did camber arms and traction arms and made my own lockout it. The 10.8 bolts are at advanced auto for like $1.50 each and I got a 1/4x2x12" bar stock of 6061 aluminium for $0.75. I just measured the space on the subframe and cut the aluminium to 1.33" squares. After everything was installed on Swift spec-Rs I could NOT achieve the numbers I wanted! My camber was fine but toe was horrible. When you adjust one it greatly effects the other. Also traction arms didn't do much but make my wheel base longer or shorter on one side or the other so I just reset them to identical length and measured wheel hub to wheel hub.

So what I did was weld all aluminium center holes closed and re drilled the squares off center. At the alignment shop we played around with the squares by rotating them 90* then playing with camber again. I got pretty damn close to what I wanted but it still wasn't perfect! I ended up buying SPL rear spring buckets and after I sold the Swifts and went true coils I sold the spring buckets and got toe links. I'm afraid for the perfect ride you need either SPL spring buckets or SPL toe links with lockout kits.

josemartinrea · 03-22-2017, 07:04 PM

I had the SPC camber arms with toe bolts that came with it and when i went to get an alignment the mechanic could not get the toe to align. Whenever he did though the toe would slip out of spec with the slightest movement. So would it be better to with the lockout kit and SPL camber arms? Or is there some other rod I can change out to adjust toe? Really don't want SPL mid link @$700+ like OP

01-13-2015, 07:46 PM	#16 (permalink)
sandersd Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 280 Drives: 2014 370z Nismo Rep Power: 11	Agreed. The lockout kit is not absolutely required but is recommended to eliminate the second point of adjustment. Personally I would not forgo the lockout kit and leave the adjustment bolt in - it would feel incomplete and would bug me to no end. __________________ 2014 370Z NISMO -- HKS Hi-Power Exhaust -- Swift Springs -- BC ER Coilovers -- SPL Suspension Components -- Nismo R-Tune Intake -- Seibon BD CF Hood

01-13-2015, 08:50 PM	#17 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684385	Great information guy +1 to you both!!! __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

01-18-2015, 12:23 AM	#18 (permalink)
Rangerz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Northern Utah Age: 59 Posts: 476 Drives: 2012 370 Nismo Rep Power: 12	Just installed the SPL camber links and eccentric lock out tonight. The whole purpose of theSPL arms is to have maximum control with no chance of camber adjustments slipping. The stock adjuster while adequate can still turn slip over time. One adjustment point is better for overall control over your camber andd toe. __________________ Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

03-30-2015, 12:07 AM	#19 (permalink)
Zipper 104 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Canada's Wet Coast Posts: 480 Drives: '13 PW/Frost/Spt/AT Rep Power: 11	I piggybacked on this related thread. Great thread. It made it clear that I ought to get the lockouts for my SPL camber arms so all the camber adjustment is handled by the arms themselves. Now my issue.....I have the SPC toe bolts for toe adustment on the lower spring buckets but have not installed them yet. I have the template for elongating the holes. The instructions make no mention at all of elongating the holes to the INBOARD side only of the stock holes. Is this right? It appears that if I put the template in place to mark the hole it leads me to believe one ought to elongate the stock hole in both inboard and OUTBOARD directions since the template seems to be symmetrical. OR, do I just align the template to the outboard edge of the stock hole and elongate to inboard? I have not been able to find much other than toe bolt installs on 350s. Everything I've seen says to elongate the holes in only the one direction....inboard. Is the 370 different, or once the car is lowered, inboard is the only direction you'll need adjust to get the toe back to spec after the camber is set? Sorry if I haven't made this clear.....if I were to just drag my butt under my car and take a good look it might be obvious and I wouldn't need to be asking this question. Thanks. 104

03-30-2015, 02:07 PM	#20 (permalink)
dP3NGU1N A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Irvine Posts: 1,682 Drives: 13 PW sport 6mt Rep Power: 18	The template is there to give the max range of adjustability afforded by the increased offset of the bolt. There is no realistic use for elongating the outboard holes. You only need the inboard holes. __________________ 35% Hooper Optik \| Takeda Attack CAI \| F.I. HFC \| Hotchkis Sway Bar \| Stillen 24row \| OS Giken Super Lock LSD \| TK Shift Knob \| EVO-R Carbon Diffuser

04-05-2015, 09:29 PM	#23 (permalink)
sandersd Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 280 Drives: 2014 370z Nismo Rep Power: 11	Whether lowered on Swifts or on coilovers w/ SPL, I haven't needed the toe bolts to bring alignment within spec. Why do it if you don't need it? __________________ 2014 370Z NISMO -- HKS Hi-Power Exhaust -- Swift Springs -- BC ER Coilovers -- SPL Suspension Components -- Nismo R-Tune Intake -- Seibon BD CF Hood

04-27-2015, 03:14 PM	#25 (permalink)
4TthAnnyZ Base Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Saint Cloud, MN Posts: 171 Drives: 2010 40th Rep Power: 11	SPL Eccentric lockout kit question - Lockout camber arms only? The "within spec" window on these cars is pretty big. So while you can get "within spec", it might not be where you really need it to be. That's why you get the toe bolts and elongate the holes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk NORAIN likes this.

04-27-2015, 09:55 PM	#26 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	In my experience I did camber arms and traction arms and made my own lockout it. The 10.8 bolts are at advanced auto for like $1.50 each and I got a 1/4x2x12" bar stock of 6061 aluminium for $0.75. I just measured the space on the subframe and cut the aluminium to 1.33" squares. After everything was installed on Swift spec-Rs I could NOT achieve the numbers I wanted! My camber was fine but toe was horrible. When you adjust one it greatly effects the other. Also traction arms didn't do much but make my wheel base longer or shorter on one side or the other so I just reset them to identical length and measured wheel hub to wheel hub. So what I did was weld all aluminium center holes closed and re drilled the squares off center. At the alignment shop we played around with the squares by rotating them 90* then playing with camber again. I got pretty damn close to what I wanted but it still wasn't perfect! I ended up buying SPL rear spring buckets and after I sold the Swifts and went true coils I sold the spring buckets and got toe links. I'm afraid for the perfect ride you need either SPL spring buckets or SPL toe links with lockout kits. __________________ 13 370z-

03-22-2017, 07:04 PM	#27 (permalink)
josemartinrea Base Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Texas Posts: 81 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 12	I had the SPC camber arms with toe bolts that came with it and when i went to get an alignment the mechanic could not get the toe to align. Whenever he did though the toe would slip out of spec with the slightest movement. So would it be better to with the lockout kit and SPL camber arms? Or is there some other rod I can change out to adjust toe? Really don't want SPL mid link @$700+ like OP

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