Review: Whiteline Front anti-roll bar

osbornsm

Ask and receive!!

NOW the bushing has a tab on one side and a functional lip on the other. Before it was just two tabs, which didn't work.

ZMan8

At least their customer service is good

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2010 370Z 40 Anniv., 6 MT | Fast Intentions | Swift Springs | SPC | Z1Motorsports | JWM | Redline Oils | 35% Window Tint
2015 Mazda6 | 370ZChicago: Chicago Area Cars & Coffee

Rangerz

osbornsm,

Snapped a few pics for you. Here is what I think is happening to people who have these pushing out.

#1 I have my locks much closer than you do .060 from the bushing clamp sticks in my head but, that could be wrong. BL=Need to be closer to the bushing clamp.

#2 When these push out it is a compounding problem. By that I mean if you have your lock 1/4" away and the bushing rides the bar "pushes out" then the bar settles back to a normal balance after your corner is done. It doesn't mean the rubber bushing is following it back in, then another corner and you push it a little more etc...

#3 This type of setup needs to be greased with good grease. The lack of grease will increase the stiction of the rubber and the bar when their is friction which causes it to follow or ride the bar.

I have just over 9000 miles and 24 20 min track sessions on my setup. I did see just the slightest like 1/16" displacement in my driver side rubber bushing.

I'm going to add Sway Bar re-grease to my 10,000 mi maintenance.

Here are the pics for reference. Hope this helps you out. They are good bars but, I agree the Hotchins bushings are a much better design.





Just saw your above post looks like those bushings are the ticket. Can you buy those separably?

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Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

kenchan

that looks good. meaty btw, that meaty side is suppose to go on the inner side, probably...

yah, that's wat the problem is too i think... i mentioned earlier as well that the collars need to be basically flush -0.5mm..otherwise the bar moves too much giving the endlinks leverage to push the bushing out from under the brackets.

mine have been fine the last 2 seasons.

kenchan

so were the new bushings installed?

kenchan

osbornsm

Hey Kenchan...

I'm waiting on a new front sway to be shipped before re-installing. I had that bar rattling around for 300 miles on my drive home.

They said "a few weeks".

*sigh

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kenchan

oh i c... dang, sorry to hear u have to wait that long.

when you do install next time though, make sure that the collars are like flush to the bushings -0.5mm each side.

kenchan

still waiting, huh?

kenchan

a month coming up soon...

osbornsm

Hah, yeah... but why upgrade suspension in the Winter tho.

Given my lack of a busy schedule... i'm sure it'll get done soon enough.

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kenchan

so you got the bar in? thought you were still waiting on the bar to arrive.. if youre calling the shots, then that's cool.

osbornsm

Oh ur right... i have the new BUSHINGS, but not the new bar... i should call on that today... thanks for the reminder Kenchan!!

kenchan

wtf~

osbornsm

Update

Which would you rather have holding YOUR sway bar in place.
- The yellow bushing is a part number for a different bar but is FAR more substantial than the "universal" bushing on the right.
- Both have the same InnerDiameter

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