Rear wheel hop
 

Hey all.

I recently installed a quaife diff, and whileline diff bushings.

This morning when I was leaving for work, I decided to lay a strip when I was pulling out of the driveway. I got some pretty intense wheel hop. It was about 60 degrees out and obviously the tires were not warm yet. Did that have something to do with it? Only other mods I have in that department are swift springs and 11 inch re11's in the rear.

Hopefully I didn't install something wrong...


Thoughts?

And I wasn't laying a strip to be a jerk, just wanted to test the new diff ;-)

odd... people swap that rear diff bushing to prevent wheel hop, no?

and punching a cold engine and tranny and diff? :ugh:

Engine was idle for a bit. Tranny is bullet proof. Knock on wood....

That's what I thought, but it was pretty bad...I'll do another test with warm tires...

I'm wondering if I tightened the bushings enough, I did it until I could see the bushings squish, breaker bar tight, but not maxed out with the metal spacer/guide

you should torque the bolts to specs. the two long bolts are 74 ft lbs and the one nut in the back is 81 ft lbs. i have quaife diff and energy suspension diff bushings. launches like a mo fo! no wheel hop.

I'll get back under there and torque them better. I'm assuming it's somewhat close, I had the handle off my jack using that as a breaker bar

If the above doesn't work upgrade your rear suspension bushings (camber and traction arms) or even better upgrade them completely. When u launch, your suspension geometry changes, upgrading some of this will help


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if you're working on a car, you need a proper torque wrench. this is the one i use:

http://www.amazon.com/CDI-1002MFRMH-...+torque+wrench

it's a snap on brand.

I have a torque wrench :-) I just wasn't sure what the torque specs were. Couldn't find it for the life of me.

I also have spc camber kit I forgot to mention

Cold tires were definitely not helping...

And I hope the engine wasn't cold if you were revving high RPMs...

There is some good info on wheel hop (have to sort through some garbage though) in a variety of threads on the forum, so you might want to do some reading as well. All I can say is I get wheel hop when I give the car too much throttle too early on launch. I control it by managing my throttle input better. I would hope with your recent mods that warm tires will virtually eliminate this, but if not, try backing off the throttle a hair when the wheel hop occurs.

Interesting as i just put in my SPL bushings in this past weekend and i also have a quaife diff too. On my test drive i laid down two 100' strips with no wheel hop at all.

the little metal spacers are the stops that set the bolt height, properly torqued everything should be nice and tight, make sure you are using the correct combination of washers at the front points for the white lines and that they are installed in the correct direction. Improperly tightened bushing will for sure give you worse wheel hop than factory bushings. but check over the other bushings back there make sure nothing else looks exploded or torn/worn out.

wat tires are you running? im sure tires are a big factor too...

not that i suffer wheel hop, with all this talk about that one rear diff mount bushing issues, i actually went under my Z and G last night to check on the rear bushing. wheew...no leaks. lol

Let me tell you, that ish is nasty... when I was drilling a hole through it it exploded and it looked like I killed an alien

Pretty sure I put it on right. Thicker bushing on the top with the top hats, thinner ones on bottom with that thick heavy washer.

Is it possible to tighten them with the exhaust on? I never really looked when I put it back on (at work now, otherwise I'd stick a mirror down there and look)

:icon18: lol!

i think im going to have a speedshop do mine if mine ever explodes. :D
will swap the front ones too while they're at it.

i have gears and the 7at. full throttle, no wheel hop. i can't really launch the car but I redline 1st in like 2 seconds. don't know the meaning of laying off the throttle in our car :P

i'll do it. come down to sd

is the rear diff bushing damage more prone to MT cars? :confused:
i have no hop in my MT's harder launchs, but then, im not smoking my tires either. :D

thanks for the offer, btw. :icon17:

think it depends on how often you go sideways, not on transmissions, but the 6mt can definitely launch harder.

i didn't feel like i had wheel hop, but after changing the bushings i realize i definitely did because it is so much better now.

for sure :tup:

I'll do it and I'm in the IE you would be like the 8th or 9th one I've done including critical's once lol (I offer driveway install at your place you supply the parts and jack and I will bring my tools. I can do the finned nismo cover + whitelines in about 4 hrs.)

replacing OEM bushing with OEM bushings doesn't count :P so scratch that from your list

How is sound? I read solid diff bushing are very noisy?

I honestly didn't notice a difference at all. Hard to hear anything over headers test pipes and non res fi exhaust...

There is another method of removing the center bushing... Kind of a pain, but if done right would prove to be a little easier.

Basically you stack the 2 bottom washers together and line it up with the back side of the bushing (it fits perfectly) then you need a huge socket or a piece of pipe big enough for the whole bushing to fit into. You basically go to the hardware store and buy a high grade nut and bolt and and put it together, tighten the nut (slowly to reduce heat, it will break otherwise) and the bushing will begin to slide out.

It could be time consuming, but a lot cleaner than using the air hack saw

I was referring to the SPL solid aluminum bushings. They are supposedly much louder than poly-urethane like whitelines

this worked on the 350 but on the 370 it is hit and miss because our subframes are made of steel theres were aluminum so the press fit and the corosion welding make the 370 bushing much harder to remove

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U're gonna need more than just stiky tyr3z and a Queeef! I still jump 'em on FIRST & SEC0ND w/SOLID SPL rear diif m0untz, OSG Supa LOK, SPL TRAXshn bars, Y0K0 AD08Rz, L0L!...Basically IRS is Nherent to JUMP! My nex+ m0dz r the SPL rear camb3r linx & rear M0n0Ball Bush'nz...mayb3 that will k33p the WHEEL H0P @ BAY :confused:

Ahh, good to know. Mine was pretty Damn rusty when I pulled it out

I seem to remember somebody telling me he spent two days swapping his bushings ;) lol

:rofl2: i sense competition amoungst you guys.

It's not that much louder. I only hear it at around 40mph +/- 3 and in forth gear hard acceleration. But on the hwy at 65 mph no noise. But it is so tight and direct, which is what I wanted. But I also have spl parts for the rest of my rear suspension minus the subframe bushings which I'm not going to change out since my car is only a part time race car. But my wife hasn't driven our Z since the upgrade so I'm sure she will have a different story. I just told her not to drive at 40 mph and she won't notice :tup:

Oh and the clutch chatter is more pronounced too I almost forgot about that.

i was watching the super bowl :P best super bowl ever

So i torqued it down to spec. It was way loose. I can feel the clutch chatter a bit more, and it's a little louder.

Laid a 100 foot patch of rubber with 0 wheel hop!! Happy camper.

Now if I could just figure out where my 4k rpm exhaust rattle is coming from...
It only happens under load, I can't reproduce it parked