2013 Touring Z with Sport Package - Vibration

Read T

Oh, the "warped rotor" topic.

I wish I could give you a hug, although I don't want the " your braking technique" to sound condescending.

Pick up one of your rotors. Those things are heavy as crap. They won't warp with daily driving. They will however, get uneven deposits from braking which will cause the shudder the OP is describing. Most mechanics refer to this as "warped rotors" which is a colloquialism for uneven deposits and a carryover from a time when rotors could warp - as on my 1959 car with CDs for rotors. The absolute fix for uneven deposits (or, actual warped rotors) is to have them turned on a lathe or replace them. Alternatively, the OP could try rebedding the pads (if the pads are worth keeping with life left on them) to see if that helps.

Agreed, the brakes on this car are pretty stout and have held up fine for me on track. But no one should use OEM fluid for track days. The OEM rotors will also get eaten up with aggressive pads on the track. The only negative about sport brakes is what a number of people on this site assume to be the stock bias resulting in "ice mode" in heavy braking. This is more a software problem than a hardware problem.

Downshifting is a better technique and it's why you get a manual or use the "+" "-" paddle on an auto.

Yes they are fine, if you get really into tracking you may want to upgrade though. If the brakes weren't fine you'd be hearing about it on the news.

Unless the OP is a serious track enthusiast (or really after bling) there would be no point in springing the $ for two piece rotors. And even if the OP gets into track stuff, the heavier a rotor is the more heat it can soak up before it transfers that heat to the pads and the brake fluid. Unless you are really deep into competitive driving and have some good ducting to cool your brakes, I'd stick to 1 piece rotors. On a related note, the Z1 1 piece rotors are inexpensive and a good unit - although I do have some teeny tiny cracks/pitting on mine from track duty.

From another thread:
If you go new rotors, I would avoid cross drilled ones as cross drilled rotors (unless you are paying out the wazoo) are more likely to fracture. Will you crack them driving around town, probably not, but it's a safety item so do it right. Slotted rotors are great, but be advised that many garages will not be able to turn slotted rotors with an ordinary lathe.

Cliff Notes
1. Try to rebed your pads (search if you need instructions)
2. If that fails either get your rotors turned ($10 at O'Reily's sounds great) or replace your rotors with blank or slotted rotors.

__________________
2011 Nissan 370z Black Cherry Sport Pkg - Daily Driver, , 1960 Morgan +4 fun car, 1986 BMW 325ES, 1998 M3 and 1996 Spec Miata - Race Cars
SUPPORT TEAM WINSOME RACING - WRL, CHUMP, LEMONS