SPL Pro front end link adjustment issue
 

Hopefully I can get some feedback on this.

I installed Nismo S-Tune suspension with SPL end links.



I am getting banging when I go over bumps.

I thought I had this remedied yesterday, but it came back this morning.



Does anyone have any "tips" for getting these things adjusted properly? The end link lengths are currently quite a bit different because I "followed the directions". I'm planning on equalling those out, but wanted to pick the brains (not the nose) of those with experience.



I've got Eibach sway bars if that matters.

Edit: Did you all use the spacer when installing?

Not sure what "the directions" are, but I wouldn't imagine a correct setup would involve different endlink settings on each side. I believe the goal is to not have the swaybar "bind", but not have it loose either. You want the swaybar at zero torque when the car is just sitting there, and you want it to start applying torque as soon as things start squishing to one side or the other, without any slack to take up first.

Basically the directions said to connect one endlink, sit the car on flat ground and connect the other. "Flat ground" would be great if it were actually a rack.
I'm hoping equalling out the sides will resolve the issue.

You want to have one end link installed, and the other loose. Park the car on a level surface...that could be on a set of ramps if both are same height...not close, same. On some boards. Whatever gives you access underneath as long as it's level. Obviously the rear should be level also, but it doesn't need to be the same height.
Now install the other end link. Adjust it to a length that the bolt just slides into the sway bar hole without using any extra force...it should just slide in. Congratulations, you have adjusted your sway bar to have no preload.

Tracy Ramsey

Thanks Tracy, but that's basically what I did. Thus the two links being adjusted differently. I'll try a different area to try to get level.

If you end up with two different settings, try starting over by adjusting the first one closer to the center of the two settings and then redoing the second one, until they come in close to the same value at zero preload?

I am not all to familiar as well and would like some expert thoughts on this subject.

I do know these couple of characteristics should be taken into account for a fact:
- make sure both ends of the endlink is able to full able to rotate up (towards the top of the car) and down (towards the bottom of the car) and is not centered/biased/pointing towards either aforementioned directions. left and right (towards the front and back of the car) is not as important because swaybars dont move on that axis
- make sure both faces of the ends of endlinks the "O" that holds the ball are 90deg perpendicular to each other. see the last 3 pictures on the bottom http://cdn.splparts.com/tech/SPLFEZ33.pdf
- swaybar should be as parallel to the car as possible. this is for full utilization of the bar.

Well. I "think" I'm getting closer. I basically started over and started by measuring the stock length. Looks like the SPL is the same as stock at the shortest length.

I extended one side three turns and tightened everything down. I did the same thin on the second side and it slid in pretty easily.
I took the car out for an extended drive and when I got to bumpy roads, I was still getting clunking. It sounded different than it did before, but still there nonetheless.

Do these end links just inherently make more noise or am I being a ninny or do I need to give it another adjustment?
I'm on the "tightest" setting on the sway bar and am curious how much adjustment others have made to the links.

I hate to be one of these "clueless" posters, but this is getting frustrating, not to mention exhausting. No fat man should have to get on the ground and get back up as many times as I have :rolleyes:

I just put these on a couple weekends ago and have had no issues with any type of noise. I just made them the same length as stock and then adjusted them to fit in the sway holes ...

Get under there and tap the sway bar from below with a rubber mallet.

If you hear a clunky noise rather than a dull BONG BONG BONG you've got play in a part somewhere. Use the mallet to identify which part. May be a loose bar bracket, worn bushing, you may have a faulty rod end on the endlink itself, etc.

Always hard to identify these issues via the internet, if I were there I could help you figure it out very quickly...

Do be sure that the jam nuts are snug on the endlinks..

Crap. Just out of curiosity, how much did you have to adjust your links?

mind snapping a few pics of your install (how the endlinks currently sit)? it might be of help for your clunking diagnosis

OK. It's official. I give up. Going back to stock struts and end links this weekend.
I'm not positive, but I believe the struts I bought have issues. I don't really know. I'm just tired (literally) of fighting. I'm driving 1,500 miles in a couple of weeks and I don't need this hanging over my head.

Thanks for all of your help. I just think this is a losing battle, especially with time constraints. Oh well. I still learned a lot a may tackle this later.

(I hate being defeated)

After stumbling on something, I think I basically got screwed. I think both struts are broken.
I may be wrong, but I found if I put a wrench on the nut that holds down the hat on the strut, they spin freely, but don't tighten.

That's normal.

The end of the strut shaft should have flat spots on it so that you can put a wrench over the shaft to keep it from rotating while you tighten the nut.

Others have a big hex-head hole on the top that you put an allen-key wrench into.

If those aren't tight, that could absolutely be what is causing your issue, the spring could be unloading on bumps.