Z1 2-Piece Rear Rotors????

slam1918 · 06-02-2014, 07:16 AM

behind the front rotors there is a thin metal plate that keeps dirt from flying onto the rotor. If you remove a front tire you can either feel & or see it behind the rotor. I replaced my front struts at the same time and accidentally bent the plate so it was making contact with the rotor and made noise at low speed.

Super Werty · 06-02-2014, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slam1918

behind the front rotors there is a thin metal plate that keeps dirt from flying onto the rotor. If you remove a front tire you can either feel & or see it behind the rotor. I replaced my front struts at the same time and accidentally bent the plate so it was making contact with the rotor and made noise at low speed.

The dust shield? No I didnt bend those. There is no noise coming from the front rotors. It's all in the rear. The ebrake shoes are rubbing slightly on the disk. Im going to take it apart tonight and try to solve this.

Super Werty · 06-02-2014, 07:05 PM

Ok I pulled everything off expecting to see wear marks on the inside of the disk where the ebrake shoes grab and....nothing. Looked perfect inside there. My adjustments on the star were perfect on both sides. No visible drag or wear marks anywhere on the disks at all.

Could this just be the pads sound on a rough new disk? I just have never heard this noise before on new disks. If I go and hand turn my front wheels they are completely silent.

This is what it sounds like while driving...

www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOgeQ4K_U6Q

Video below

2sl0w · 06-02-2014, 08:12 PM

Mine made a similar noise before I bedded the carbo tech's in but the posi quiets did not. I would just try to bed them in if there is no sign of wear.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Super Werty · 06-02-2014, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2sl0w

Mine made a similar noise before I bedded the carbo tech's in but the posi quiets did not. I would just try to bed them in if there is no sign of wear.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Thats what I'm thinking. Just went out and did a few hard stops. Seems the noise is starting to quiet down with each stop.

Shadezz · 06-03-2014, 02:45 PM

Thanks Z1!! Shes stops on a dime now!! I'm having some high res shots taken this Friday..Can't wait for you guys to see them!!

DEpointfive0 · 06-03-2014, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadezz

Thanks Z1!! Shes stops on a dime now!! I'm having some high res shots taken this Friday..Can't wait for you guys to see them!!

( Click to show/hide )

You installed them backwards!

Shadezz · 06-03-2014, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dustin@Z1

The internal vane direction dictates the direction of rotation...which is what I think someone mentioned previously.

If you plan on installing brake ducts that are mounted close to the hub, you want the vanes to slant towards the rear of the car. Inside (hub edge) leading. This will allow the vane to "scoop" the air and spin it out through the middle of the disc. \\\\

If you do not plan on installing any brake ducting, then it really does not matter. However, a 19" or larger wheel will have additional clearance between the wheel's barrel and the rotor itself. These will allow air to be scooped and pulled into cool the hub/wheel bearing....in theory. ////

The vanes are designed to scoop air and force it through the rotor. The rotor will perform this action, regardless of which direction you choose. However, if you do install brake ducts in conjunction with the rotors and install the rotors in the wrong orientation, the ducting will be work to its full potential.

I hope I have answered your question.

Please let me know if I still need to change...Is it because of the slotted directions? Thanks for the heads up Depointfive0..

gomer_110 · 06-03-2014, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadezz

Please let me know if I still need to change...Is it because of the slotted directions? Thanks for the heads up Depointfive0..

It's the internal vanes that determine the proper installation direction. The direction of the slots on the rotor surfaces is irrelevant.

Super Werty · 06-03-2014, 09:18 PM

Just flip them.. it only takes 30 min

Hotrodz · 06-03-2014, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gomer_110

It's the internal vanes that determine the proper installation direction. The direction of the slots on the rotor surfaces is irrelevant.

Z1 posted on this earlier in the thread and they recommend that the outer vanes point to the rotor....I switched mine after being told this by SSFirehawk.

Shadezz · 06-04-2014, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Werty

Just flip them.. it only takes 30 min

Agree..i'll get them switched tonight. Thanks for the heads up guys!!

slam1918 · 06-06-2014, 12:30 AM

here we go again.....Z1 said they would mark the rotors L & R....my thread show pic's of wrong & correct

06-02-2014, 07:05 PM	#108 (permalink)
Super Werty Track Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: AZ Posts: 668 Drives: '13 Sport Rep Power: 13	Ok I pulled everything off expecting to see wear marks on the inside of the disk where the ebrake shoes grab and....nothing. Looked perfect inside there. My adjustments on the star were perfect on both sides. No visible drag or wear marks anywhere on the disks at all. Could this just be the pads sound on a rough new disk? I just have never heard this noise before on new disks. If I go and hand turn my front wheels they are completely silent. This is what it sounds like while driving... www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOgeQ4K_U6Q Video below __________________ The Build Last edited by Super Werty; 06-02-2014 at 07:19 PM.

06-02-2014, 08:12 PM	#109 (permalink)
2sl0w Base Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Atlanta Posts: 106 Drives: Z34, BCNR33, F83 Rep Power: 12	Mine made a similar noise before I bedded the carbo tech's in but the posi quiets did not. I would just try to bed them in if there is no sign of wear. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk __________________ \|\| Z1 Intake, U/L Plenum, Headers, Oil Cooler, Two Piece Rotors, SP Diff 3.54 FD, Semi Solid Mounts, Clutch + LW Flywheel + CSC Del \|\| Uprev \|\| A.R.T. Pipes + XYZ Mid Pipe w/ HFC \|\| Tomei CBE \|\| Nismo Sways \|\| BC BR 12k/10K \|\| SPC Arms \|\| Dewla Shroud \|\| Advan RSD \|\|

06-03-2014, 02:45 PM	#111 (permalink)
Shadezz Track Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Colorado Age: 43 Posts: 896 Drives: 2012 Nissan 370Z Rep Power: 14	Thanks Z1!! Shes stops on a dime now!! I'm having some high res shots taken this Friday..Can't wait for you guys to see them!! __________________ 2012 370Z BLACK EDITION/ FLT BLK Rays / 5% 3M Tint / DW's / Z1 SS & 2 Piece Rotors Nismo S-Tune OEM / Beluga CBE & Y-PIPE / DDX370 / GTR Start .4 Fluid / NST Blue Kit

06-03-2014, 09:18 PM	#115 (permalink)
Super Werty Track Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: AZ Posts: 668 Drives: '13 Sport Rep Power: 13	Just flip them.. it only takes 30 min __________________ The Build

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06-02-2014, 07:16 AM	#106 (permalink)
slam1918 Base Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Tequesta, Fl Posts: 60 Drives: 10 370Z White A/T Rep Power: 13	behind the front rotors there is a thin metal plate that keeps dirt from flying onto the rotor. If you remove a front tire you can either feel & or see it behind the rotor. I replaced my front struts at the same time and accidentally bent the plate so it was making contact with the rotor and made noise at low speed.

06-06-2014, 12:30 AM	#118 (permalink)
slam1918 Base Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Tequesta, Fl Posts: 60 Drives: 10 370Z White A/T Rep Power: 13	here we go again.....Z1 said they would mark the rotors L & R....my thread show pic's of wrong & correct