Please look at my alignment settings

GSS138

Generally you want more front camber than rear, yours seem to be the opposite. I would go for like -2.0 front and -1.5 rear instead of vice versa.

Toe, I am not the guy to ask but generally 0.0 for starters, and then a little toe in the front for FR cars so yours is fine.
Not sure on the rear but I guess I would expect 0.0 or a little negative.

Caster, seems a little low but is fine.

Ride heights -good news they are nice and even, bad news is that they are nice and even. This means your corner weights are going to be off, but no biggy there.


All in all it's not a bad alignment for regular street use, could be better if the camber angles were flip flopped.

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

HngNgn19

Your rear camber are pretty high and will wear out your tires fast. I'm on Swifts/Stock Shocks combo. I got the SPL rear camber kit and SPC toe bolts to get my alignment back to factory specs. As for the front, just try to get it back factory spec as close as you can, from what I read, most can get within range of factory spec or just simply ignore it. As for camber kits, you have a ton of choices out there, but most go with SPC (cheap) or SPL ($$$ but its the best you can get). Short version, get a rear camber kit and toe bolts if you don't want to wear out your tires FAST! Good luck!

synolimit

How much caster is good caster?

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13 370z-

GSS138

Go toe in on the front(dynamically stable but slower turn in)

and add more caster - +6-7 to start.

The caster will balance out the turn in sharpness and the toe in at the front is more dynamically stable. This is debatable on street setup, but for race setup it is the norm. For street the toe out in front is kind of a gimmick but it works and is safe at speed less than say 70 mph. At high speeds toe out in front is not stable-a wind gust can basically **** your steering up. Hard to explain, but basically picture a 40 mph gust of wind hitting the right side of your car-it will instantly add toe out, if you are already toed out, then for a split second your left wheel is pointed left and your right wheel is pointed way right. This will push you into a bad understeer situation.

Compare that to having toe in, on the wind blast side you will just get closer to 0, it will slow you, but it won't spin you.

At low speeds and not in a hurricane, butt dyno tells you toe out is fast, and yes it is responsive and fun. At 100 + mph and a large rock or blast of wind, it's a spin out since your car will not hold a straight line and will steer one way or the other and cause an over correction. That's the idea anyway.

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

synolimit

I'll have to play with it. -0.05 seems pretty low. Might as well call it zero. He started at 0.11 and it looked like with just a little movement of the tie rod end he got -0.05. Not even a full or half turn. I'll just see what happens. This seems interesting to test.

Front toe-out will introduce a bit of oversteer (looser)
Front toe-in will produce the opposite - understeer (tighter)
Steering response will be improved with front toe-out
Straight-line stability will be improved with front toe-in

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13 370z-

Rusty

I'm running in the front. Camber at -2, caster at +6, toe zero. In the rear, camber at -1.7 and toe at zero. With the SPL arms up front. I bet I could see +7 caster, -3 camber easy.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
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