Originally Posted by ValidusVentus Yes I did a quick google of that, still not quite sure how it was applicable but I just went with it and tried not to
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
02-22-2014, 09:09 PM | #16 (permalink) | |
Premium Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Arkansas
Posts: 8,435
Drives: 2014 Challenger
Rep Power: 324198 |
Quote:
Link wasn't necessarily for you. If someone needs it, they can click. BTW, I've been BBSing since the mid-'80s when bits were expensive to transfer and store. Sorry if all the acronyms/abbreviations are confusing. Old habits are hard to break.
__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma |
|
02-22-2014, 09:52 PM | #18 (permalink) |
Track Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 932
Drives: 2012 Nismo TT
Rep Power: 3398 |
I've seen people add additional notches in pads at the track before, though I've never done it personally. Most of the time it's done to assist in gas dispersion as I understand it
__________________
DJTodd's Build Thread
Fast Intentions • Volk • Stoptech • Carbotech • SPL • Southbend • OS Giken • RJM • Sparco • RobiSpec • AIM • Driver Mod |
02-22-2014, 11:07 PM | #19 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Washington State
Posts: 400
Drives: #18 Z34
Rep Power: 23 |
Yeah, it used to be done for that reason, back when pad material was bonded together with resin, that resin when heated to high temps basically boiled off and created a gas which would get stuck between the pad and rotor and cause pad "fade". Pads are no longer constructed this way though. If you saw people cutting radial ( ) grooves in their pads it was for the reasons I stated above... or at least that was the only effect it was going to have. Thanks for the input DJTodd
|
02-23-2014, 04:18 PM | #20 (permalink) |
Track Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: FL
Posts: 834
Drives: 2019 Civic Type R
Rep Power: 14 |
Engineers designed that pad in one piece. Cutting it is not advised. As another said here, having that pad break into chunks at high speed / temps when you need it most is not good. I would buy pads purpose designed with gaps/notches in between the pads.
After doing more research. No offense, but anything to do with modding a piece concerned with saving/losing my life I would do a little more research than asking a bunch of knuckleheads like us for a definitive answer on that. Talk to an expert. |
02-23-2014, 04:24 PM | #21 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: N/A
Posts: 76,801
Drives: N/A
Rep Power: 141521 |
Quote:
fixed... |
|
02-23-2014, 05:40 PM | #22 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sacratomato
Posts: 309
Drives: your mama wild.
Rep Power: 13 |
I'd be afraid it would act like a scribe line on glass or tile if you know what I mean. You would want the bottom of the groove to be rounded, not square as it would be from a hacksaw cut. The square 90 degree angles would create stress points that would cause it to crack. I agree with the post above; find some pads designed for racing and pop them in before you go to the track.
__________________
About my name: I occasionally play a Conn 10M Tenor Saxophone - so 10MPlayer |
02-23-2014, 07:14 PM | #24 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Washington State
Posts: 400
Drives: #18 Z34
Rep Power: 23 |
I'll post whatever they say up here so this thread actually ends up with some potentially useful info
I'm just going to have to somehow avoid them just giving me the off the cuff speech of "dont do it [because we are worried you will sue us or something]" Last edited by ValidusVentus; 02-25-2014 at 12:50 AM. |
02-24-2014, 05:13 PM | #25 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Detroit
Posts: 1,294
Drives: 09 370Z Red Sport-MT
Rep Power: 18 |
The Bobcat's come with an angled edge on the leading/trailing edge. takjak is right though... Carbotech can tell you if it's safe and if it isn't they might be able to make a set for you that have what you want!
|
02-25-2014, 05:23 PM | #26 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Washington State
Posts: 400
Drives: #18 Z34
Rep Power: 23 |
So I just got off the phone with Carbotech. They said there is absolutely no reason not to add a radial groove or two, just don't cut into the backing plate obviously. Also said to not chamfer the edges of the slot in order to minimize the reduction in pad surface area. Make sense to me and is pretty much what I thought they would say if I was able to get an honest answer, which I was. There wasnt any hesitation or asking why i was asking. So that's the official word. Testing shall commence when I next get an opportunity.
Last edited by ValidusVentus; 02-26-2014 at 01:30 AM. |
02-26-2014, 01:31 AM | #28 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Washington State
Posts: 400
Drives: #18 Z34
Rep Power: 23 |
I was also wondering the same thing.
Probably deem it unnecessary. I am not sure, it might not even help. I think my problem is that I am actually getting the XP10s right up to their max temp range right at the contact surface (1600 F). I dont want to go with a higher bite pad though like the 12s or the 20s, just not enough modulation in it to use with street tires imho. I am afraid it could also increase my chances of confusing the sh*t out of the ABS system and causing the dreaded "Ice Mode" by drastically changing the amount of retardation () generated by the pad for a given amount of caliper pressure so far away from what the computer expects when it attempts to modulate the braking force. Even though I very very rarely find myself getting into the ABS. This may or may not be a cause. To the best of my knowledge it is not a learning unit. I don't want to get too far into this and turn this into another Ice Mode thread, we already have [at least] one of those! (As do the Porsche and Lotus forums, with a lot of good info btw) Think I need to start taking it easy on laps where I run into traffic and only going full out on clean laps. This will also give me some more time to think and really analyze the track surface and my own performance as well. And give my equipment a break. Sounds like a good idea "on paper". But I think I will try the groove out all the same. Just fyi the small holes in the pad material are where it is riveted to the backing plate (kinda thought they would use a "higher tech" method for this like the "special" method that EBC makes a big deal of, but /shrug.) He said that the XP10s are such a low volume seller that they are hand made. At my next track day I will try cutting a relatively shallow groove to see if it does anything useful. I have no plans to ever completely halve the pad material. If it doesn't help, in a day or two of track use, it wont be there any more anyway. Last edited by ValidusVentus; 02-26-2014 at 03:46 AM. |
02-26-2014, 10:22 AM | #29 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: N/A
Posts: 76,801
Drives: N/A
Rep Power: 141521 |
^ yah, good point on the premature triggering of ABS. that's one thing i dont like about messing with pads with aggressive bite.
might even be better figuring out a way to disable ABS on the track. |
Bookmarks |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
FS: Akai XR20 drum machine (groove box) | kenchan | Misc Items for sale (No Z stuff) | 5 | 02-15-2012 03:12 PM |