Ie, you may be able to find a better/shorter word.

Link wasn't necessarily for you. If someone needs it, they can click.

BTW, I've been BBSing since the mid-'80s when bits were expensive to transfer and store. Sorry if all the acronyms/abbreviations are confusing. Old habits are hard to break.

"busy googling BBSing"

Edit: ah, I understand now!

I've seen people add additional notches in pads at the track before, though I've never done it personally. Most of the time it's done to assist in gas dispersion as I understand it

Yeah, it used to be done for that reason, back when pad material was bonded together with resin, that resin when heated to high temps basically boiled off and created a gas which would get stuck between the pad and rotor and cause pad "fade". Pads are no longer constructed this way though. If you saw people cutting radial ( ;) ) grooves in their pads it was for the reasons I stated above... or at least that was the only effect it was going to have. Thanks for the input DJTodd

Engineers designed that pad in one piece. Cutting it is not advised. As another said here, having that pad break into chunks at high speed / temps when you need it most is not good. I would buy pads purpose designed with gaps/notches in between the pads.

After doing more research. No offense, but anything to do with modding a piece concerned with saving/losing my life I would do a little more research than asking a bunch of knuckleheads like us for a definitive answer on that. Talk to an expert.

fixed... :mad:



:icon17:

I'd be afraid it would act like a scribe line on glass or tile if you know what I mean. You would want the bottom of the groove to be rounded, not square as it would be from a hacksaw cut. The square 90 degree angles would create stress points that would cause it to crack. I agree with the post above; find some pads designed for racing and pop them in before you go to the track.

Let's call Carbotech and ask

I'll post whatever they say up here so this thread actually ends up with some potentially useful info ;)

I'm just going to have to somehow avoid them just giving me the off the cuff speech of "dont do it [because we are worried you will sue us or something]"

The Bobcat's come with an angled edge on the leading/trailing edge. takjak is right though... Carbotech can tell you if it's safe and if it isn't they might be able to make a set for you that have what you want!

So I just got off the phone with Carbotech. They said there is absolutely no reason not to add a radial groove or two, just don't cut into the backing plate obviously. Also said to not chamfer the edges of the slot in order to minimize the reduction in pad surface area. Make sense to me and is pretty much what I thought they would say if I was able to get an honest answer, which I was. There wasnt any hesitation or asking why i was asking. So that's the official word. Testing shall commence when I next get an opportunity.

if that is to provide higher performance, is there a reason why carbotech doesnt do this from the getgo? :confused:

cost driven? really?

I was also wondering the same thing.

Probably deem it unnecessary. I am not sure, it might not even help.

I think my problem is that I am actually getting the XP10s right up to their max temp range right at the contact surface (1600 F). I dont want to go with a higher bite pad though like the 12s or the 20s, just not enough modulation in it to use with street tires imho. I am afraid it could also increase my chances of confusing the sh*t out of the ABS system and causing the dreaded "Ice Mode" by drastically changing the amount of retardation (:rolleyes:) generated by the pad for a given amount of caliper pressure so far away from what the computer expects when it attempts to modulate the braking force. Even though I very very rarely find myself getting into the ABS. This may or may not be a cause. To the best of my knowledge it is not a learning unit. I don't want to get too far into this and turn this into another Ice Mode thread, we already have [at least] one of those! (As do the Porsche and Lotus forums, with a lot of good info btw)

Think I need to start taking it easy on laps where I run into traffic and only going full out on clean laps. This will also give me some more time to think and really analyze the track surface and my own performance as well. And give my equipment a break. Sounds like a good idea "on paper".

But I think I will try the groove out all the same. Just fyi the small holes in the pad material are where it is riveted to the backing plate (kinda thought they would use a "higher tech" method for this like the "special" method that EBC makes a big deal of, but /shrug.) He said that the XP10s are such a low volume seller that they are hand made. At my next track day I will try cutting a relatively shallow groove to see if it does anything useful. I have no plans to ever completely halve the pad material. If it doesn't help, in a day or two of track use, it wont be there any more anyway.

^ yah, good point on the premature triggering of ABS. that's one thing i dont like about messing with pads with aggressive bite.

might even be better figuring out a way to disable ABS on the track.

Isnt the abs tied in with vvel or something crazy?