Stock Brakes 370z Sport Package

Troyz

I have OEM Pads and Rotors on a 2012 370Z with 40K. I am not looking for anything radical, but I am looking to see what options for rotors over stock I can get that won't get warped so easily.

Right now, it appears my spirited driving has gotten me some real warped rotors in the front.

osbornsm

The OEM rotors do not cool well enough for "spirited" driving.

2-Piece rotors are pretty much THE answer, that or Stillen brake ducting?

Check this thread.

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Chuck33079

I'd go with new OE rotors and the Stillen brake ducts. Better rotors are a bandaid for insufficient airflow to cool the brakes.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

JARblue

I replaced the front rotors and pads myself at 35K miles. I used EBC Ultimax slotted rotors and Hawk Performance Ceramic pads. I've been happy with them, though I will be switching to a different pad next time.

The Hawk PC pads dust quite a bit and can't handle the heavy Z near as well as my old 6MT Accord. I'm torn between trying the Centric Posi Quiet pads for low dust and price, or something more performance oriented that will give more bite at a higher cost and with more dust.

2-piece rotors are an excellent option but probably overkill for pure street driving.

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JARblue

I am surprised you guys are recommending brake ducts for street driving. Even "spirited" street driving shouldn't require them unless you are doing it for long periods at a time.

Also, how you apply the brakes is a critical element in the condition of your rotors after many miles. I had to retrain my wife how to brake properly after her last two cars got warped rotors unusually fast. She's put almost 30K miles on her Acura now with no problems. She had the original OEM Z rotors showing signs of uneven wear (or uneven pad depositing) in less than 20K.

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Chuck33079

Agreed, but if his street driving is "spirited" enough to warp rotors he's either sitting at red lights with the brake pedal crammed on the floor or his definition of "spirited" is a lot more aggressive than mine.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

JARblue

Gotcha

And that is exactly why I added the bit about braking habits. Heating up your brakes and then sitting on them stopped at a light is about the worst thing you can do for them while street driving. Knowing that and avoiding it is a great way to avoid problems with uneven pad depositing.

Also, my "spirited" street driving is deliberately sporadic. I do it when the roads are clear, and I don't do it for very long periods of time. This helps me get my fix when I need it, and I avoid pushing the car (my DD) too much where it causes problems down the road. Just my

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cossie1600

Some of you guys just love to waste money. Rotor is a chunk of metal, nothing fancy about them. My $60 parts store rotors are working well

osbornsm

Yeah but he warped his cheapy rotors... so in the interest of safety and longevity, we recommend upgrades.

...and sensible ones too. Nobody has said buy a BBK. Js

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cossie1600

Wrapping metal? Highly unlikely, uneven pad deposits more likely. Getting new rotor without new pads will get you the same exact problem down the road.

osbornsm

Warping rotors is possible. I did it to the stock ones

Boiled SuperBlue fluid too, eek.


But again this was track driving and the OP is, for some reason, cooking his brakes on the street.

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kenchan

does the op run those heavy 30lbs wheels and brake hard?

Troyz

I talked to the SA from the dealership. He said OEM Rotors are $117 a peace. I can also just cut the ones I have.

Stillen Rotors AUD3000 is not that much more and the backs AUD3001 are cheaper. The dealership will put them on. I not sure of the pads they use.

I am hard on my brakes and its my fault they are very warped. I am getting them checked on Monday.

Your thoughts???

JARblue

It appears as though you have several options:

First is to upgrade to rotors, pads, fluids, and lines that can handle your hard braking. Hopefully the parts will last longer than your current set up.

Second, you can evaluate the stress that you are putting on your brakes and try to adjust your braking habits, if necessary. Avoid riding your brakes (i.e. low pressure application for long distances/time). You should apply the brakes quickly with hard pressure for as short a period of time as possible. This will help avoid uneven deposits, which is commonly mistaken as "warped" rotors. It is very unlikely that you are actually warping the rotors with street driving (if you are, please stop driving like that on public roads). If the brakes are hot, avoid pressing the brake pedal when stopped - this is the most common cause of uneven pad deposit. I know this can be hard in an AT, but gear N is good on level ground, and you might even be able to idle still on a slight incline. Downhill, though, you're pretty much screwed - try not to heat up your brakes too much before having to stop on a downhill slope. You, however, have a manual, so it should be a little easier

Lastly, continue on about your life and don't worry about why you have to replace rotors and pads sooner than most everyone else.

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jcosta79

I warped my front rotors in one shot. Coming off an on-ramp (huh?) I was doing SOME miles per hour and came up on stopped traffic. I didn't slam on the brakes but I applied a fair bit of pressure. Immediately warped them. I could feel the wheel vibrate before I even came to a stop.

It happens. I will either turn my stock rotors next time I get tires, or spring for a set of 2-piece with slots and stuff in 'em, cause racecar.

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2012 PW NISMO #0559 - GT Spec Brace Kit - Swift Springs - ARK TP & Invidia CBE K&N Intake - UpRev Tune - 15mm Z1 Spacers & Studs - StopTech Slotted Rotors & SS Lines - ZSpeed CMAK with Stage 2 Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel