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does the op run those heavy 30lbs wheels and brake hard?
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#2 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Austin
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Drives: 370Z Touring M6
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I talked to the SA from the dealership. He said OEM Rotors are $117 a peace. I can also just cut the ones I have.
Stillen Rotors AUD3000 is not that much more and the backs AUD3001 are cheaper. The dealership will put them on. I not sure of the pads they use. I am hard on my brakes and its my fault they are very warped. I am getting them checked on Monday. Your thoughts??? |
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#3 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Age: 44
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It appears as though you have several options:
First is to upgrade to rotors, pads, fluids, and lines that can handle your hard braking. Hopefully the parts will last longer than your current set up. Second, you can evaluate the stress that you are putting on your brakes and try to adjust your braking habits, if necessary. Avoid riding your brakes (i.e. low pressure application for long distances/time). You should apply the brakes quickly with hard pressure for as short a period of time as possible. This will help avoid uneven deposits, which is commonly mistaken as "warped" rotors. It is very unlikely that you are actually warping the rotors with street driving (if you are, please stop driving like that on public roads). If the brakes are hot, avoid pressing the brake pedal when stopped - this is the most common cause of uneven pad deposit. I know this can be hard in an AT, but gear N is good on level ground, and you might even be able to idle still on a slight incline. Downhill, though, you're pretty much screwed - try not to heat up your brakes too much before having to stop on a downhill slope. You, however, have a manual, so it should be a little easier ![]() Lastly, continue on about your life and don't worry about why you have to replace rotors and pads sooner than most everyone else.
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#4 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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I warped my front rotors in one shot. Coming off an on-ramp (huh?) I was doing SOME miles per hour and came up on stopped traffic. I didn't slam on the brakes but I applied a fair bit of pressure. Immediately warped them. I could feel the wheel vibrate before I even came to a stop.
It happens. I will either turn my stock rotors next time I get tires, or spring for a set of 2-piece with slots and stuff in 'em, cause racecar.
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2012 PW NISMO #0559 - GT Spec Brace Kit - Swift Springs - ARK TP & Invidia CBE K&N Intake - UpRev Tune - 15mm Z1 Spacers & Studs - StopTech Slotted Rotors & SS Lines - ZSpeed CMAK with Stage 2 Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel |
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#5 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#6 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Not the ABS. ABS doesn't make your steering wheel vibrate. The steering wheel vibrates now every time I use the brakes. It might be pad material, but I'm pretty sure the rotors are warped. I've done it before in other cars.
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2012 PW NISMO #0559 - GT Spec Brace Kit - Swift Springs - ARK TP & Invidia CBE K&N Intake - UpRev Tune - 15mm Z1 Spacers & Studs - StopTech Slotted Rotors & SS Lines - ZSpeed CMAK with Stage 2 Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel |
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#7 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Age: 44
Posts: 36,450
Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3
Rep Power: 2684441 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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I think you likely have uneven pad deposit, but I'm not going to say your rotors aren't warped. However, it takes enough heat and force to warp rotors that I'm not convinced it could be done in the Z on a single braking pass. Unless, of course, your brakes were already nice and hot.
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