Best sway bars and endlinks for 370z?

Chuck33079

The threads strip on the whiteline links. I've got a set with the first 3/4" of the threaded part worn smooth. My guess is they use softer steel than they should.

I ran a set of Kartboys on several Subies with no complaints. Before you go to too much effort take a look at the SPL ones. They seem plenty beefy and they're still fairly reasonably priced.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

synolimit

The question would be though, would we need a link that has to move some with the hem joints or whatever they're called or can a solid link be used?

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13 370z-

Chuck33079

I'd imagine we need something OEM style, but I'll defer to the hardcore track guys on that one.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

Gibby1113

Anyone know if eibachs are hollow or solid bars? Thanks

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synolimit

Everyone's hollow but whiteline. They're 32x7mm.

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13 370z-

Gibby1113

Whitelines are good but they're pricey. Wonder if they're worth the price. Wonder why hotchkis are more expensive if they aren't even solid.

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Super Werty

a solid bar is not necessarily stronger/stiffer.

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The Build

synolimit

When twisting a straight bar back and forth, WL vs Hotch vs eibach, Hotch is the strongest. It doesn't matter that its hollow. The more area makes up for it. It's called motion of inertia. WL is like 2.61cm^4, Hotch is 5.45cm^4 and eibach like 3.23cm^4. So even hollow it's almost double the strength.

HOWEVER...mounting holes play a role. If the Hotch is like 12" away from the bars center and the WL is like 10.8 on the first hole and 11.5" on the second hole, it gets some of that loss back. Not sure if it shoots to the lead but you get the idea. Only way to know is to measure each bar and if they're all the same really than the Hotch wins.

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13 370z-

Gibby1113

Thanks for sharing bud. Rep coming for the physics lesson
I just want to make sure I'm getting the right one cuz I can't afford purchasing something that's gonna snap on me or something.

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synolimit

Lol. Your endlinks will fail over time. Save up over the months and get spl. They're not needed right away. I still have OEM ones. Depending on your driving the Hotch might be over kill. For track though I think I'm going to have to sell my WL. Still no idea on mounting holes though for anyone but OEM and my WL.

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13 370z-

NoirG

Any opinion on cusco?

G37sHKS

HotChkis with SPL end links = Game over.

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Gibby1113

Haven't heard anything about cusco or hedwig (forgot how to spell it).

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40th anniversary #450/1000 | Takeda Attack CAI | Ark DTS exhaust | to be continued...

chrisbeltre

Eibach front and rear, Whiteline rear end links. BC coils, Michelin PSS. 6 track days at the Nurbergring 0 issues, handles amazing.

ValidusVentus

I have a few inputs. I would not recommend the WL bars, because they are solid. The inner material does very little to contribute to the twisting resistance of the bar. This translates to noticeably increased mass with very little gain. Race cars use hollow bars for a reason. I would also question putting a stiffer bar in the front especially while simultaneously removing the rear bar. This might be an OK setup for a drag car (except you might remove the front bar entirely for weight savings) but you will end up with GROSS under steer in low speed corners with those changes. Stock, the car already under steers at the limit, either of those changes by themselves would make the under steer worse but together, man, I would think it'd be tough to go around a corner at all lol. More of the cars mass is already over the front tires so in order to get your weight transfer and hence, grip, somewhat even you need to have more roll resistance on the rear of the car from roll bars assuming you stay with stock spring rates.

Edit (a year later): I ended up buying a WL rear ARB -and pairing it with an Eibach F ARB- since you can purchase it separate and its adjustable and its not that stiff. Looks like by adding camber, tire size and track width to the front end you can more than offset a stiffer front bar. Though I believe its still a better idea to get a larger portion of your total roll resistance from your springs rather than a stiff ARB since it minimizes adding a huge variable resistance spring -tough for dampers to dampen- to the suspension and allows the wheels to work more independently. Not there yet.

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