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I ran a set of Kartboys on several Subies with no complaints. Before you go to too much effort take a look at the SPL ones. They seem plenty beefy and they're still fairly reasonably priced. |
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I'd imagine we need something OEM style, but I'll defer to the hardcore track guys on that one.
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Anyone know if eibachs are hollow or solid bars? Thanks
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Whitelines are good but they're pricey. Wonder if they're worth the price. Wonder why hotchkis are more expensive if they aren't even solid.
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HOWEVER...mounting holes play a role. If the Hotch is like 12" away from the bars center and the WL is like 10.8 on the first hole and 11.5" on the second hole, it gets some of that loss back. Not sure if it shoots to the lead but you get the idea. Only way to know is to measure each bar and if they're all the same really than the Hotch wins. |
Thanks for sharing bud. Rep coming for the physics lesson :tiphat:
I just want to make sure I'm getting the right one cuz I can't afford purchasing something that's gonna snap on me or something. |
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Any opinion on cusco?
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HotChkis with SPL end links = Game over.
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Haven't heard anything about cusco or hedwig (forgot how to spell it).
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Eibach front and rear, Whiteline rear end links. BC coils, Michelin PSS. 6 track days at the Nurbergring 0 issues, handles amazing.
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I have a few inputs. I would not recommend the WL bars, because they are solid. The inner material does very little to contribute to the twisting resistance of the bar. This translates to noticeably increased mass with very little gain. Race cars use hollow bars for a reason. I would also question putting a stiffer bar in the front especially while simultaneously removing the rear bar. This might be an OK setup for a drag car (except you might remove the front bar entirely for weight savings) but you will end up with GROSS under steer in low speed corners with those changes. Stock, the car already under steers at the limit, either of those changes by themselves would make the under steer worse but together, man, I would think it'd be tough to go around a corner at all lol. More of the cars mass is already over the front tires so in order to get your weight transfer and hence, grip, somewhat even you need to have more roll resistance on the rear of the car from roll bars assuming you stay with stock spring rates.
Edit (a year later): I ended up buying a WL rear ARB -and pairing it with an Eibach F ARB- since you can purchase it separate and its adjustable and its not that stiff. Looks like by adding camber, tire size and track width to the front end you can more than offset a stiffer front bar. Though I believe its still a better idea to get a larger portion of your total roll resistance from your springs rather than a stiff ARB since it minimizes adding a huge variable resistance spring -tough for dampers to dampen- to the suspension and allows the wheels to work more independently. Not there yet. |
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