It was this one. SPC Rear Camber Arm (370Z / G37)
But I dont think tech drilled anything. That would be the problem then. Thanks. Ill check that also. And yes. Ill do the front also :(.

Then you don't have toe bolts installed. I think there's a copy/paste error on Z1s website. I don't think the toe bolts are included with the camber arms unless something's changed recently.

I think the lesson here is, leave your factory suspension alone unless your prepared to upgrade corresponding parts.

Thats goes for the other thread a few down also...
Aftermarket sway bars, stock endlinks?

Pretty much. If you lower your car, replace the front and rear camber arms and toe bolts at the same time. That way your labor costs are cheaper, and you only have to pay for the alignment once.

Yes. I got my lessons! Thanks guys. This is my first time modding suspension, so I learned. Thanks again!

Oh also, when the tech installed the camber kit, he said the size of stock toe bolts and the spc's were same. Does that matter?

Yes. They aren't.

It means it's time to find a new shop.

Yeah.. I should not go to him. Should find new shop.

Hey chuck im a bit new to this to but from what im learning from this thread is that you would need front camber arms AND one pair of toe bolts to utilize these springs with alignment adjustability. You would not need new camber arms for stock alignment settings. Does that sound right?

Lastly, Would you need two sets of the toe bolts for oem rear control arms (if so, why) or just one? Thats the last part thats confusing me when the z1 site mentions camber arm and spring perch locations.

Again all hell would be greatly appreciated! Im here to soak up all i can learn!


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If you're only going to do lowering springs, front camber arms are not really necessary. Rears aren't completely as lowering springs don't lower you enough to take you dangerously out of alignment... But they're a good idea.

You would only "need" rear camber arms and toe bolts due to them being adjusted from 2 separate locations that interact with each other. The fronts being a true coilover setup would just need front camber arms if you wanted.

The reason for this is the stock arms offer very little, if any, adjustability.

You will only need toe bolts for the rear. The front is a different setup.

The fronts are necessary if the specs arent close to equal. Ive seen a 0.6* difference which is no good. The actual camber numbers aren't bad though around high negative 1's.

Rears are 100% necessary no ifs ands or buts!! Swifts will get you mid to high -2's and even into the -3's! Way way to much rear camber. Sub -1.8 is what you want.

Front offer zero adjustment, none.

My fronts right now are hilarious. I'm on my winter wheels/tires, so its exaggerated. FL: -2.4* FR: -2.7* I will be ordering front camber arms later this month though, and have those installed when I go back with the summer wheels/tires. Get them set to a -1.8*.

My rears right now are -1.6* and -1.5* L/R respectively, I figured to cut the guy a break and not be overly ocd and have them both match since each time he adjusted one, it would alter the other. :icon17:

Yeah, the stock arms are a waste really. Chunk those. :icon17:

That's actually a good front. Not great for DD probably but I'd take it! I have used swifts ready to go. I'd love to see those numbers.

For tracking sure, but not for DD. :icon17: So I'll have them pulled back.

I just had the Fortune Auto 500s installed with Swift springs, so I'm looking forward to fine tuning that.