Been having a difficult time deciding on sway bars like me? Here is a chart to compare brands, diameters, and adjust-ability. Just data compiled from marketing info. List is sorted
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12-01-2013, 02:37 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Sway Bar Diameters
Been having a difficult time deciding on sway bars like me? Here is a chart to compare brands, diameters, and adjust-ability. Just data compiled from marketing info. List is sorted by size of front bar, then rear bar, then adjustment points.
I know some of you rocket scientists will bemoan tube diameter, but hey this is for reference and comparison only... Updated... Took a look at the other chart and found the original posting- Autocrossing + Surprise Visitor it did not mention how the inside diameter (which determines tube wall thickness) was "guessed". I assumed that the stock and Stillen bars had been measured, so I took a look at common chrome moly tubing wall thicknesses compared to the stock and Stillen figures and made calculations based upon the common tube sizes for the others. Also, I'm not sure what the mm^4 figures indicate, unless each bars length was considered for a volume comparison. This and the other chart really compare tubing area as opposed to spring rate increase over stock. But it does provide a comparison of sorts. Last edited by myotorsports; 12-10-2013 at 09:10 PM. Reason: New Chart |
12-03-2013, 12:27 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Just to repeat a little of what's been discussed in various other swaybar threads, the general consensus seems for track use seems to be that (assuming your tire/suspension/alignment setup is both aggressive and sanely configured/balanced) you want a very stiff front bar and a pretty weak rear. My own experiences seem to back this up running the Hotchkis setup. Since the front on those isn't adjustable, I adjust the bias with the 3-way in the rear.
When I had good coilovers and a bit of drop, but no front upper control arms to kick out the front camber to a reasonable level, I was losing front grip (burning up just the outside half of the tire) and found I had to set the Hotchkis rear to its stiffest just to break the rear tires easier and prevent understeer at the limit. Once I fixed my front camber, the car felt best with the rear set back at the softest setting, and feels like it would be even better if I could make it even softer. In the wet, I absolutely have to have the Hotchkis rear at the softest setting or the rear end goes nuts on corner exits (for now, I should probably consider just disconnecting the endlinks on wet days). From the easy commercial options listed, my thinking now is Hotchkis in front and Whiteline in the rear would be a good bet. I may swap my rear out over the winter and try that. |
09-13-2014, 07:51 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Is there any downside to super stiff front for a DD? I see a lot of people go with Hotchkis but they aren't adjustable.
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09-13-2014, 08:37 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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The downside is a harsher ride on the street. As each person is different I can't say what level of harshness is too much for someone else. fwiw I have the Eibach bars, front and rear, and don't find it to be too harsh on the street.
The only real issue with the Hotchkis bars is that you can't buy just the front bar. Their rear bar is way too stiff to be useful so you end up buying the pair of bars just to throw the rear away.
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09-13-2014, 11:02 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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I tracked with both the Hotchkis bars installed. Guess what. I'm installing the stock bar back on the rear. The rear is/was a little loose. Lost the balance on the Z. On the street. I didn't find the ride any harsher.
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浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html Last edited by Rusty; 09-13-2014 at 11:04 PM. |
10-14-2014, 02:35 AM | #9 (permalink) |
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so from a few threads it sounds like stillen are the best for daily? and also good fro track i dont think i want to go fro hotch due to increased tire wear ... its been 5 yrs thoughts on good bars ?i daily but i also every blue moon auto x
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10-14-2014, 05:26 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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The increase in tire wear from the Hotcthkis bar is from cornering harder. There is no increase in tire wear for normal driving.
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10-28-2014, 04:15 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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In the top chart for rear sways - how is the area vs stock of the stock sway bar not 100%
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09-26-2015, 02:42 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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Just a heads up for people looking for just the hotchkis front bar. I bought the hotchkis and installed it today. Hotchkis sells the front by itself on their website, look for the bar 22441F, this is the front bar:
HOTCHKIS SPORT SUSPENSION SYSTEMS, PARTS, AND COMPLETE BOLT-IN PACKAGES » Blog Archive 2008+ NISSAN 370Z G37 G37S G35 SPORT FRONT SWAY BAR - HOTCHKIS SPORT SUSPENSION SYSTEMS, PARTS, AND COMPLETE BOLT-IN PACKAGES Amazon Both Bars: Amazon.com: Hotchkis 22441 Sport Sway Bar Set for Nissan 370Z, G37, G37S and G35 08+: Automotive I bought both front and rear on amazon for $362. Front one by itself on the hotchkis website is $265. Sell the rear on eBay for $200 and your front bar price will be $162
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02-27-2016, 12:15 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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Hi Folks,
I come from the dark side in an Infiniti, but I have a Q60s Limited (G37 IPL) and just measured the OD of these bars to be the same as the NISMO 370z. I'm not sure if you want to put this in the table, but I figured I'd post it for reference as I know I'm not the only one board hopping looking for suspension setup from the Z gurus. |
06-15-2016, 11:39 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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I can't tell by looking that the G37 stabilizer bars are hollow. The ends are well-finished and if there's a seam, I can't see it. What's the evidence for hollow? The RWD sport coupe and sedan use the same rear bar as the NISMO Z34.
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