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Hi Guys As some of you know. I have bought ALOT of stuff from SPL lately, through corner3garage. Well, here is the install. The parts. The upper control arms.
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#1 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
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Hi Guys
![]() As some of you know. I have bought ALOT of stuff from SPL lately, through corner3garage. Well, here is the install. ![]() The parts. The upper control arms.
__________________
![]() 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html Last edited by Rusty; 11-05-2013 at 10:06 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 69
Posts: 35,359
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
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The Parts.
The lower control arm bearings and sway bar end links.
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#3 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 69
Posts: 35,359
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
Rep Power: 2684438 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Install of the upper arms.
1st pic. What it looks like. 2nd pic. Remove the bolt that holds the ball joint in. It will pop up by it's self. Use a zip tie to hold the spindle from falling. I tied it to the spring. 3rd pic. Remove the bolts that hold the control arm in place. This is where I found out, that they WILL NOT come out. 4th pic. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the coilover in place at the top. Pry down on the coilover and move towards you so that you can finish removing the control arm bolts.
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#4 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 69
Posts: 35,359
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
Rep Power: 2684438 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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This is what the control arms look like. Compared to each other.
Before I installed the SPL arms. I put anti-seize on all threaded parts. You never know whhen parts will seize up. I adjusted the heim joints to about the same distance as the stock arms.
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![]() 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html Last edited by Rusty; 10-30-2013 at 11:36 AM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 69
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Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
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Now reassemble.
1st pic. I had a bolt sticking out of the fender on the right side that was hitting the control arm. I ground that bolt down so that the control arm could move freely. 2nd pic. You will find out now that you can freely put the ball joint out in place. 3rd pic. This is what it looks like finished. Before you tighten anything up. Make sure that the heim joints ARE positioned correctly ![]()
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![]() 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html Last edited by Rusty; 10-30-2013 at 11:37 AM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 69
Posts: 35,359
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
Rep Power: 2684438 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Ok, the upper control arms are taken care of. Now for the bearings in the lower control arms.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY |
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#8 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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**update** The top mount plate is fine. It appears the noise I heard was the stud(s) threads rubbing past the holes in the fender well. Before reinstallation I will check the threads and see if they need any repair (a proper tap and die kit might be in my future lol) As for the bolt... I'm just an idiot. Even after getting the bolt clear of the spring, I was still having trouble removing it. The bolt head was pushing up against the top of the dust boot where the rubber is thicker (see attached photo). Finally, I realized I could just pull down the dust boot completely out of the way and have a ton more room ![]()
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#9 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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Did you unbolt the sway bar like I told you to do?
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#10 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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I removed the nut, but I never actually took the sway bar off the bolt. Just sliding the dust boot down was enough.
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![]() 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic | ARC | CJM | Ecutek | FI | Fujimura | R2C | SPL | Stillen | TWM | Z1 | ZSpeed | |
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#12 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 69
Posts: 35,359
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
Rep Power: 2684438 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Going with everything SPL. The only increase I noticed was when I installed the rear sub-frame bushings. To me, it wasn't that much of an increase. My Z is noisy anyway.
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#14 (permalink) |
Track Member
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Looking Great Rusty!!! Rep for the pics and Review!!!
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2012 370Z BLACK EDITION/ FLT BLK Rays / 5% 3M Tint / DW's / Z1 SS & 2 Piece Rotors Nismo S-Tune OEM / Beluga CBE & Y-PIPE / DDX370 / GTR Start .4 Fluid / NST Blue Kit ![]() |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Looks nice!!!!! While my intentions were good, spreading this out over a period of time. Next up is wheels and tires, need to order brake lines and pads too, then I can start tearing apart and putting back together. Will be following ya though to see how the car feels after the upgrades. Thanks for the pics!!!!
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