buybrakes.com
 

Looking for pads and rotors and saw buybrakes.com
Anyone have feedback for me regarding buybrakes.com out of Florida?

For a second I thought it was Spam :icon17:

Have you looked at here?

Brakes Parts, Upgrades, and Accessories

What brakes are you buying? Have you asked our friend Jeff L?

Thanks G. Lol, did not mean to throw you off. Thanks for the lead. They have decent pricing.

Hawk front rotors and HPS pads all around.

I'll connect with Jeff.

Thanks guys.

Get 2 piece!!! Lol

I got some from Joe@Zspeed

Looking for rotors too. Any feedback would be appreciated.

11' Z base model

Upgrade to sport brakes, they (even with base rotors will give more stopping power) if that's REALLY not doable, anything slotted or drilled would be better, try Z1's

Agree!! But make sure you powdercoat the caliper a nifty color first :tup:

Umm, noo... different / better pads might however...

Explain... "better"... for us amateurs.

I hope that answered it, if there's anything else I can add, please tell me.

Well aren't you thorough!! Haha, I don't think slots and drilled rotors do anything beneficial for modern brakes. Back in the day there was "gas" that built up between pads and rotors, but that's not the case anymore.

donno ??
:stirthepot:

Slotted does help somewhat, by keeping the pads from glazing. The de-gassing is no longer an issue. Drilled rotors are only helpful by pointing out exactly where the rotor will crack. OEMs that use drilled rotors aren't really drilled, they're cast into the rotor.

LMAO!!!

The actual purpose of drilled rotors is to allow pad dust a place to go and mainly for water to go somewhere. (Besides the heat dissipation)

Although, one could point out that by definition, a rotor is a heat sink. It, with help from the caliper and pads, converts rotational movement into heat. By removing mass from the rotor in the form of slots or holes, you reduce the total capacity of the heat sink.

Of course, by the time someone makes that argument, we're well past "what works well on my car" and deep into "theoretically better but completely unnoticable to the end user".

:gtfo2:




:p

Get that physics the **** out of here, huh? Lol. :p

If you can drive a car and tell me whether it's running solid, drilled, slotted, J-hook or any other kind of rotors by feel alone, you're a better man than I.

darn! I was watching this thread for a real answer cuz I need brakes for my other vehicle! :)

LOL!

I tell you that on my Toyota Avalon, the braking distance was reduced greatly, same pads, but granted, new rotors
It was on a 60-0 stop, friend was in the car, and it was a HUGE improvement, we were both surprised. Then again, maybe it was other factors? (God knows there are a lot)

Exactly. Maybe it was the brakes. Maybe it was something else. On a one stop situation, the presence of slots/holes or lack thereof will not have a noticable effect.

On the flip side, drilled and slotted rotors look ******* fantastic.

Right? That's why I bought some 2 piece ones from Joe, price was too good to let go, and they look bitchin

Oh, 2pc rotors are a whole different ball game. That's not a placebo effect. They are lighter, and that makes the car happy. I was just talking about one piece rotors. You went with the baller rotors.

Lol! I know, I was talking about 1 piece too, but I'm just saying that 2 piece is the looks of drilled/slotted on steroids!

And I ONLY went with the baller choice because the price was tooooooo damn good. And the rent isn't too damn high, lol


Just gotta get the car back to install the damn things!!! And I have project Mu pads too!

You guys forgot one thing. With the better grade of rotor. They are made with a better grade of cast iron. With that, you have a higher fiction coefficient = better stopping.

Yes, for the first nth amount of a second, I'd call that better "bite"
Because once you have enough power to lock up the brakes (no matter what compound the braking system is made from,) the tires mean more in ability or feet it takes to stop