Akebono with Stock Brake Lines
 

There are different answers to this question and I'd appreciate if someone knows exactly what I need to make the stock OEM lines work with my Akebono Set-Up.

From what I understand the Akebono BBK uses a different banjo bolt than the non-sports? So I need to find and order 4 of these banjo bolts?

What do I need in order to use my OEM lines with the akebono?

Thanks!

Just buy a set of SS brake lines that fit. Don't reinvent the wheel, and don't cut corners when dealing with your brakes.

Not trying to cut corners. I do not want SS lines since they require more maintenance and the marginal benefits they provide will only be seen at the track. I'd rather buy the Sport Brake lines than go SS.

I've read people using their OEM lines so I just wanted to know exactly what I needed to make that work.

If you get the coated SS lines there's no additional maintenance, and you can feel the difference whether you're on the track or the street. I'd bet they cost less than the OEM lines as well.

The only SS lines I'd consider buying is the BF Goodridge Phantom lines which are coated. There are too many "cheaply" made lines out there.

I've seen what happens to SS lines and I've heard way too many horror stories. Car will not be tracked enough to feel the difference, if any at all. I believe the pressure tests showed about 1% difference from OEM to SS.
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http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...rt-pics-3.html

I came across this thread and post but it doesn't say anything about any bolts? Does the hard-line bolt up straight to the caliper without any banjo bolts? There's only a mounting bracket for the rears and not fronts? Is there somewhere to mount this bracket if my car isn't factory equipped with the Akebono?...

If I purchase these OEM lines, what exactly bolts up to the caliper?

1. 46246-JK60B left front caliper hard line
1. 46245-JK60B right front caliper hard line
1. 46315-JL00A right rear caliper hard line
1. 46316-JL00A left rear caliper hard line

1. 55286-1MA0A right rear hard brake line caliper mounting bracket
1. 55287-1MA0A left rear hard brake line caliper mounting bracket
4. 01121-04761 bolt for mounting rear caliper bracket

There's no straight-forward thread that explains the process of upgrading to BBK. Just a lot of mixed information here and there. After the install I'll post up a thread explaining exactly what you need.

Let me know so I can finally install this BBK!

Thanks

I can sell you OEM sport brake lines? Lol

Thanks but I don't know how I feel about using "used" brake lines.. Something I don't want issues with. lol

But you're willing to modify yours to fit? Alllllright...

If you want the set I'll ship it for $20 OBO. Taken off a 2012 with 3000 miles

Just tell em they r new and charge him $200 since he wants to pay Nissan prices for what everyone thinks is not worth it. Even the Nismo comes with upgraded brake lines now.

You guys are taking this all wrong or maybe I'm not explaining myself correctly... I'm not trying to do the cheap way out at all.. I have bought Akebono calipers, stoptech drilled and slotted rotors, motul rfb600, EBC Yellow Brake Pads, and now I'm trying to figure out what options I have with the brake lines. I'm thinking about doing the install myself and I want to make sure I have everything before I do the install.

I'm familiar with SS lines. They require a lot of maintenance and periodic inspection. At a minimum you should check them 1-2 times per year for frays and leaks (especially at the connections). If you go to a track and ask people about SS lines they will tell you that most brake failures at the track are caused with cars with SS lines. Whether it's installation error or poor quality parts. You barely hear of brakes failing on OEM lines. Top of the line sport cars don't have SS lines.. Although internally they are probably slightly different... Also there is a big difference between “DOT compliant” and “DOT approved”. A lot of these small companies who make and sell brake lines are all inferior lines which "look" good. The only SS lines I'll drive on are the coated Goodridge Phantoms lines. Although I hear that Goodridge non-coated and Stoptech lines are good too.

I will be tracking my car maybe a few times a year and the marginal 1%-2% benefits of SS lines aren't worth it for me. Google it and read about if SS lines are worth putting on daily drivers...

I just want a clean install and I assumed the best way was not to touch the lines except to where it meets the calipers. Causing a smaller chance of possible leaks. I know the "banjo" bolts are different but not sure exactly what I need in regards of lines, bolts, washers, etc.. I think I need to purchase the lines ($40) posted in the thread I posted but I'm not 100%...
By no means am I trying to seek the "cheap/unsafe" way out... My car is FBO with no "cheap" parts.. Sorry if I confused any of you.. lol

What about Teflon coated lines? Z1 coats their lines. They have a premium version too that I believe maintains the stock configuration.

It's what I have. Never seen a SS line that didn't have a thick coating on them so frays aren't possible.

OP, 500 miles on my OEM :tup:

I had an uncoated set on another vehicle. They'll saw right through anything they rub against, and theyll do it fast. I've never seen any fray though.

OP, $16 shipped priority mail

By who? Guess I just buy quality :roflpuke2:

If you currently have BASE brakes upgrading into the Akebono.....

You will need "OEM 370z Front Sport Metal Hardlines (Connecting Lines to the Caliper)"

Call up Z1motorsports and they will send them to you...i think it was like 9 bucks.

This is the only thing you will need to upgrade. your base brake lines will work, just need that metal hardline I mentioned.

The rears work with no modification....btw

This is exactly what I'm looking for. So it's just 1 hard line for each rear corner?

Maybe I should get the rears too so the calipers are hardlined instead of the banjo bolt? Probably better flow of fluid?

Do I need any bolts or washers?

Those part #'s from the other thread are probably correct. I just wonder if there is a place to mount those brackets for the lines...

Ok, $10 shipped, lol
Damn you Pat

They were Goodridge lines, so it wasn't a quality issue. They ended up working fine once I made sure there was nothing touching them.

Interesting. Never seen a goodridge line without a coating. Maybe a knock off on eBay?

Nope, these were the real deal. This was years back, so they may have stopped making any uncoated lines.

Goodridge sucks. Several of my corvette customers had leaky ones.

As for the op, just get new crush washers and use the lines and bolts that you have. The akebonos use a hard line with a fitting on the end that goes into the caliper, but a banjo bolt should work just fine also, as there is a flat surface on there for the washers to mate up with. the only caveat to that could be the length of the base banjo bolts, they do have to be shorter than the depth of the caliper hole and the width of the block on the stock line.

1 hard line in each corner.

i didnt touch anything with the rear ( maybe this is why i need to re-bleed again, i'll keep you updated on sunday when i do it )

Hey brother,
Just some pointers if you do this your self.

1. Any after market steel braided or Kevlar brake line kit for the Z will work well. You can't mount the rear lines due to the bango fitting on the stock lines, you will need SS lines for the rear no matter what. The front can be modded and will work with some modification of the hard line but better to go with full set of lines.

2. Mounting Bolts, you don't need new bolts to mount them, just reuse the stock bolts the hold your base model calipers on for the front and rear.

3. Rotors, easy day use the set screw on the stock rotors and they will pop right off with a 12mm socket. The rear rotors use a 2x4 and a hammer to pop the rotor over the safety brake lip inside the rotor and it should pop right off after that.

4. Installing the rotors: The front is easy day, The dust shield on the rear will need to be trimmed. Its made to fit the Base rotors, I trim the lip off and from the mounting bolts I trim a large section off to clear the new caliper.

5. Brake lines: The aftermarket brake lines need to be attached to the back of your new calipers first. They are compression fittings so don't use Teflon. You have to mount the lines to the caliper first the run the connection strait to the hard line coming off the fender well. Ignore the brass blocks that come with the kit. It's a strait connection from hard line to caliper, make sure the line is ran around the strut and doesn't bind on anything.

6. Bleeding order from the Nissan Brake System PDF Manual R/Rear then L/Front then L/Rear then last R/Front.

So all in all the only issue with the swap is trimming the rear brake dust shields and getting new SS lines. Hope this helps you out. Easy swap..

This car is a Base Model we installed Infinity Calipers that have been powder coated, same calipers as the 370Z.

So basically if I want to upgrade my calipers/rotors the way to go is getting the Akebono set WITH the SS lines that arent included in the set. Right???

If your referring to the Z1 kit yes the lines are in the kit, You will save money buying Infinity Calipers and having them powder coated then buy the rotors and lines from Z1. Every one jacks up the price on 370Z calipers. Take you time you can pick a set up for $5 to $700.00.

You will notice the brake isn't as stiff as your base model brakes. The reason is the Booster on the sport model is a different size and the hard lines that are on the sport are slightly larger in diameter than the base hard lines.

Connecting the new SS lines to the hard line and attaching it directly to the caliper helps stiffen the braking feeling a little bit but a good set of Pads you wont know the difference.

Also you need to fill the Brake Reservoir all the way to the top. The Sport brakes used a little more fluid, if you don't top the reservoir off all the way you will get VDC, Traction and E-Brake light will come on and freak you out.

Next time I do a set I'll take pictures and do a DIY for it.

Thank u very much :tup:

What does the hardline look like anyways? Currently, I'm in the same situation as this guy and I did a temporary fix instead of SS lines, because that means another brake flush. This is how it sort of is at the moment: Mickey Mouse front rotor/caliper/brakehose. right side..
Where did it go wrong?

Also, installing the hardlines, does that mean i need to flush again?

^ Anyone? *bump*

Good thread.....the info I was looking for was found here! :)

Did you use oem hardlines from the sport brakes?

Anyone with questions, read this post first. This is an awesome description. My questions have been answered by the poster and +1 rep to you sir!

According to the service manual the brake boosters are the same on both sport and base models.

primary diaphragm diameter are both 9.06"
secondary diaphragm diameter are both 8.07"

its on page BR-64
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/2013/BR.pdf

Getting ready to install some brake components myself. Got a couple questions..
I purchased (2) bottles of Motul RBF600 DOT 4 fluid in June 2017. They are still factory sealed and unopened. Are these still ok to use?
Can I use DOT 4 fluid in my 2011 370Z?
Also I noticed the Bleeding order from the Nissan Brake System PDF Manual as well. R/Rear then L/Front then L/Rear then last R/Front.
I always thought you were suppose to start at the furthest away and work towards the master cylinder. Just curious why they say R/Rear then L/Front then L/Rear then last R/Front.?

Thanks for any guidance!

:tiphat:

Thank you! :tiphat: