Akebono with Stock Brake Lines

Originally Posted by omg35s

There are different answers to this question and I'd appreciate if someone knows exactly what I need to make the stock OEM lines work with my Akebono Set-Up.

From what I understand the Akebono BBK uses a different banjo bolt than the non-sports? So I need to find and order 4 of these banjo bolts?

What do I need in order to use my OEM lines with the akebono?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by omg35s

You guys are taking this all wrong or maybe I'm not explaining myself correctly... I'm not trying to do the cheap way out at all.. I have bought Akebono calipers, stoptech drilled and slotted rotors, motul rfb600, EBC Yellow Brake Pads, and now I'm trying to figure out what options I have with the brake lines. I'm thinking about doing the install myself and I want to make sure I have everything before I do the install.

I'm familiar with SS lines. They require a lot of maintenance and periodic inspection. At a minimum you should check them 1-2 times per year for frays and leaks (especially at the connections). If you go to a track and ask people about SS lines they will tell you that most brake failures at the track are caused with cars with SS lines. Whether it's installation error or poor quality parts. You barely hear of brakes failing on OEM lines. Top of the line sport cars don't have SS lines.. Although internally they are probably slightly different... Also there is a big difference between “DOT compliant” and “DOT approved”. A lot of these small companies who make and sell brake lines are all inferior lines which "look" good. The only SS lines I'll drive on are the coated Goodridge Phantoms lines. Although I hear that Goodridge non-coated and Stoptech lines are good too.

I will be tracking my car maybe a few times a year and the marginal 1%-2% benefits of SS lines aren't worth it for me. Google it and read about if SS lines are worth putting on daily drivers...

I just want a clean install and I assumed the best way was not to touch the lines except to where it meets the calipers. Causing a smaller chance of possible leaks. I know the "banjo" bolts are different but not sure exactly what I need in regards of lines, bolts, washers, etc.. I think I need to purchase the lines ($40) posted in the thread I posted but I'm not 100%...
By no means am I trying to seek the "cheap/unsafe" way out... My car is FBO with no "cheap" parts.. Sorry if I confused any of you.. lol

Originally Posted by Nut_N_Much

Hey brother,
Just some pointers if you do this your self.

1. Any after market steel braided or Kevlar brake line kit for the Z will work well. You can't mount the rear lines due to the bango fitting on the stock lines, you will need SS lines for the rear no matter what. The front can be modded and will work with some modification of the hard line but better to go with full set of lines.

2. Mounting Bolts, you don't need new bolts to mount them, just reuse the stock bolts the hold your base model calipers on for the front and rear.

3. Rotors, easy day use the set screw on the stock rotors and they will pop right off with a 12mm socket. The rear rotors use a 2x4 and a hammer to pop the rotor over the safety brake lip inside the rotor and it should pop right off after that.

4. Installing the rotors: The front is easy day, The dust shield on the rear will need to be trimmed. Its made to fit the Base rotors, I trim the lip off and from the mounting bolts I trim a large section off to clear the new caliper.

5. Brake lines: The aftermarket brake lines need to be attached to the back of your new calipers first. They are compression fittings so don't use Teflon. You have to mount the lines to the caliper first the run the connection strait to the hard line coming off the fender well. Ignore the brass blocks that come with the kit. It's a strait connection from hard line to caliper, make sure the line is ran around the strut and doesn't bind on anything.

6. Bleeding order from the Nissan Brake System PDF Manual R/Rear then L/Front then L/Rear then last R/Front.

So all in all the only issue with the swap is trimming the rear brake dust shields and getting new SS lines. Hope this helps you out. Easy swap..

This car is a Base Model we installed Infinity Calipers that have been powder coated, same calipers as the 370Z.

Originally Posted by CB1

Getting ready to install some brake components myself. Got a couple questions..
I purchased (2) bottles of Motul RBF600 DOT 4 fluid in June 2017. They are still factory sealed and unopened. Are these still ok to use? Should be fine
Can I use DOT 4 fluid in my 2011 370Z? Yes
Also I noticed the Bleeding order from the Nissan Brake System PDF Manual as well. R/Rear then L/Front then L/Rear then last R/Front.
I always thought you were suppose to start at the furthest away and work towards the master cylinder. Just curious why they say R/Rear then L/Front then L/Rear then last R/Front.? It is weird, yes. I just follow the Nissan recommended order. Never had any issues.

Thanks for any guidance!

Originally Posted by JARblue