Brake Pad Swapping, Easy Method?
 

I have 2 sets of brake pads and was wondering if there's a way to swap out the pads without removing the whole caliper.

I have no problem sliding the pads in and out if the pistons are backed out using a C-Clamp but once the brakes are used, I cannot just yank the Brake Pads out without taking out the whole entire caliper. Any work around guys? I can't seem to fit a spreader in between the pads and the rotors from the opening.

Thickness of the new pad won't slide in. Best to just remove the caliper and buy a C-clamp at Sears or any other place of your choice.

I'm not talking about getting away from using a spreader. I'm referring to how to get the old brake pads out without removing the calipers. Once the pads are removed I can easily use a brake pad spreader such as:

http://www.biltema.se/ProductImages/...e/19-287_l.jpg
http://www.lislecorp.com/uploads/pro...7B7764E6AC.jpg

to increase room for the thickness of new pads. But before that part, I can't seem to be able to pull out the old pads.

I've seen people change pads at the track for a 4 pot brakes, so how are they able to do that?

It's just due to the design of the calipers. The sport package brakes for example have two pins and a spring clip holding the pads in place so that you can just slide them in and out without removing the caliper.

You can usually work around the thickness / pistons problem. As you're removing the old pad, when it's half out just kind of push it back and forth to push in the pistons, and then swap over to the new pad ASAP before they slowly push back out again. You may have to get the new pad started on one piston first and then wedge it under the other one, and/or let the brake rotor move around a little. It can be a pain, but I've never failed to get them in, even with extra heat-shield shims in the front.

The pads should come out no problem, they are snug but not tight since there is no hydraulic pressure on them at the time. Just wiggle, pry the end with a screwdriver or push on the bottom of the pad near the rotor hat to expose enough to grab onto them.

I did, but i'm now thinking of making a tool to leverage off the 2 holes where the pins slide thru to yank on the pads. Those were my thoughts too that the pads should just slide in and out. But for some reason after tracking them or driving hard on them, I think the piston is somewhat bonded to the heat shield or something. Something is making it really hard for me to just yank out.

Its easy. Just get a screwdriver and pry the hole on the pads

two long thin screwdrivers, on in each hole on the pad and lift them both up at the same time.

Ive tried but there's no place to rest the the long part of the screw driver to pry on. I don't want to screw up the powdercoated part of the caliper. I'll take another look when I get a chance.

Use a piece of wood for a fulcrum to protect the caliper finish, if you need too.

Put some foam around the shaft of the screwdriver, then wrap the shaft of the screwdriver with duct tape. ;)