New help ASAP!
 

Just installed my 15mm spacers on all corners, and also added SPC lower camber arms and toe bolts in the rear (had installed Swift springs a few weeks back). For the spacer install, I used the DIY method, and drove the old lugs out with a 5lb hammer. No problems, all went smooth.

I noticed when I was putting everything back together that the passenger rear wheel was very hard to rotate. With the parking brake off, parking brake adjuster nearly all the way down, and the car out of gear, I still had trouble turning the tire by hand. I put the car back down on the ground, and pulled it back and forth in the garage. Far too much throttle to move it, so I parked it and left it for the night. I thought I could also hear a mild grinding, but I attributed that to the parking brake being misadjusted (?).

I pulled the wheel this morning, then the brake caliper and rotor. Everything came off without issue, but that axle cannot be turned by hand. I raised the other side, and it turns just fine.

On another, related, note, I noticed when I mounted the brake caliper again that the rotor was not centered. It was touching the outside inner edge of the caliper when fully mounted. I double checked and the washers are both where they are supposed to be. I know that issues isn't what's keeping the axle from turning, but it's just compounding my quandry.

Anyone have this issue after installing spacers?? I can't imagine I damaged the axle just driving out the old lugs? None gave me an issue where I had to overly strike them.

Any advise would be appreciated. I'm not really prepared to pull an axle (never done it on this car), and will most likely tow it to the dealer if it comes to that.

Thanks.

If you replaced lug studs, you sure they are seated all the way in?

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Ok, update. I decided to loosen the lock nuts on the SPC camber arm, and rotate the center adjuster a bit. Waa laa, the axle turned with what I would consider normal resistance. When I went to remount the rotor and spacer, and used a couple of lug nuts to tighten it down in preparation for remounting the caliper, the axle would not turn again. The act of tightening the rotor agains the hub is causing the axle to freeze up???

I didn't even get to remounting the caliper, so I don't know if that's and interference fit still, but it obviously isn't the main source of the axle being hard to turn. I can't figure out what it is about tightening the rotor that's doing it, but I do hear the slight "popping" of metal as I tighten the lug nuts up, as if the rotor is being torqued somewhat.

Any ideas??

Yup, double checked them as soon as the wheel came off this morning.

Nothing "keyed" thats out of place?
or maybe something directional installed backwards?

Warped or crooked stud?

Well, I seem to have isolated the issue, but can't for the life of me figure out why it's happening. Triple checked the lugs for fit, all seems good there. It's when I mount and tighten the rotor down with a couple of lug nuts, with or without the spacer, that it seizes up the axle from turning. WTF??

It's got to be binding against something, but I just can figure out what....

Pics...

Torque pattern?

Nothing that I can see right now. I checked all the studs for length after install, and all are equal. The rotor isn't sitting flush, and is being forced flush by the lug nuts being tightened. This would seem to indicate to me that somethings not right with the parking brake assembly. I'll be removing the assembly from the opposite wheel, and double checking that emergency brake assembly.....

Wow that's weird. It's been a bit since I had my back wheels apart so I can't quite remember the parts configuration to be able to offer any suggestions. Hope you get it taken care of boss.


I survived Zdayz 2013

(barely)

I'm thinking it is the e-brake b/c it happened to me when I put my spacers on ,verify that the rotor sits flush up against the axle flange and see if it turns if so then bolt the wheel up and try it if it still binds loosen the cable with a 10mm socket under the cup holder and then try it.

Problem solved!
 

First off, thanks for the help. Sometimes I think we just need to bounce things around to keep the stress level mechanical problems cause down.

Once I removed the wheel, caliper and rotor from the opposite side, it just took a couple of minutes of comparing the e-brake systems to see that I had knocked the lower mount point off the passenger side when I "persuaded" the rotor on the night before. The bottom of the e-brake shoes rest on a fixed metal piece, and in forcing the rotor on, I had knocked one side off. This alone caused the rotor to mount slightly crooked, the rotor to contact the caliper, and the hub seize up. We're talking a matter of 3-4 millimeters! Man it doesn't take much to throw everything into wack.

Lesson is, I should have used less force mounting the rotor, which caused the whole problem in the first place.

:woot:
Fixed. Thats the important part!!

you have sport package? then that's the viscous limited slip. i turn my wheels/tires while in storage and i encounter that each time. same on my Z and G.

I have a Nismo, and I'm assuming the brake package is the same as the Sport option. That said, this issue was caused by one of the rear e-brake shoes falling off the lower mounting point, which in turn caused it and the rotor to contact upon tightening. Lesson learned, on to the next mechanical issue. Luckily, the next time I'm under the car should be for my FI CBE install sometime in August!

^^ i see, so there was an actual problem..

i didn't read the entire thread (was :yawn last night after long day), but msbc was asking to post any comments so wanted to just point out that extra friction is your VLSD...

GL with the exhaust install. :tup: