Brake bleed clear tubing, inside diameter???
 

Anyone know for certain what inside diameter clear tubing I'd need to fit snugly to do a brake bleed task.:bowrofl:

What kind of task are you doing?

Bleeding the brake system. I'd like to know the ID for the clear tubing that goes over the caliper bleed nipple so when I'm out I can purchase the correct size.

You don't need any hose just put a bucket under each wheel open all 8 bleeders keep the M/C full after you run thru about a quart of fluid tighten all 8 bleeder screws top off M/C then fill a windex bottle of water and hose off the calipers to dulit the brake fluid your done.

either 1/4 or 3/8. the clutch line is a little bit larger than 3/8

:gtfo2: Please do yourself a favor and keep bad advise off the forum.

You have no idea what you are talking about troll!!!!:shakes head:

It's bad that you made that comment b/c it shows that you don't know anything about cars!

Yes, I don't know anything about cars because I don't advise gravity bleeding.

First, gravity bleeding uses gravity to flow fluid meaning that there is very little pressure exerted on the line with very little flow. Small bubbles can still stay in the line.

Second, with such little flow/pressure if you have any air in your ABS system it is almost guaranteed not to work.

Third, you don't actuate the master cylinder and you can still have air stuck in it. I have seen this a number of times even with motive pressure bleeders failing to bleed out the brake system properly especially on older Porsche. (964/993) The motive method is like 99% better then gravity bleeding regardless.

Fourth, Running expensive fluid? Cause gravity bleeding tends to be a big waste. I guess unless I am running around watching each bleeder and then closing them but that seems like more work then bleeding properly. I mean most cars hold about 500ml of fluid so wasting half a bottle of SRF does not sound appealing.

Fifth, Gravity bleeding takes forever simply because of the lack of pressure.

So yea.... :ughdance:

Like I said your comment on this forum doesn't hold water.

Gravity bleeding is bad advise for reasons I posted and I don't see any counter argument to adjust my point of view on the subject. Furthermore, I don't see how relevant your age is to the conversation but I will let you know I am 28. However, I am more curious about your experience working on cars like are you a professional tech?

Well, I figured that info would be in the FSM but all it calls for is "vinyl tubing" (I think they meant PVC). As cheap as the stuff is (you can find it in most hardware, hobby, pet (fish) stores for a few bucks for a 5-10 ft roll), just buy 2-3 different IDs and see which works best. 1/4" or 3/8" ID will probably do the trick but I've never bled the brakes on a 370Z.

By the time he runs around to find that hose I can flush the whole brake system in 20 minutes by myself.:tiphat:

With the method mentioned in post #4, i'd be concerned about getting brake fluid on painted surfaces and/or even onto the pads.

As for method, I highly recommend the motive device. Assuming you're just doing this for preventive maintenance, chances of getting air in the master is unlikely. Maybe the trick is to pump the pedal several times then use the motive device?

As far as the fluid on the pads it doesn't get on them and the calipers are power coated not paint so there are obviously no issues with it.

I don't disagree with you. I follow your basic procedure - put a bucket under it and then wash any spills with soap and water. But it can get pretty messy and, if I ever bleed the brakes on my 370, I'll probably use some tubing. The tubing is not necessary but it sure makes cleanup a lot easier. It also helps keep air out of the line if you are pumping the brake pedal to build up pressure.