Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 Instructions!!! And/or pic by pic, step by step method for our cars, lol (I love AK's retard proof DIYs) Fill M/C,put a bucket under each of
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04-19-2013, 11:01 PM | #16 (permalink) |
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Fill M/C,put a bucket under each of the 4 calipers open all 8 bleeder screws keep filling M/C so it doesn't run dry,after running about a quart of your favorite fluid shut all bleeders rinse calipers with water your done.
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04-19-2013, 11:47 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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Is it really that easy?
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04-20-2013, 10:27 AM | #18 (permalink) |
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If I need to change my brake lines too, should I change the lines first then bleed the entire system?
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04-20-2013, 12:12 PM | #20 (permalink) |
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I recently did this after getting my calipers PC'd. I was going to try the gravity method but managed to get my hands on a nice brass vacuum bleeder so I used that. Worked well except that because they draw some air in at the nipple it always looks like there is still air in the line. Once I had a good stream of fluid it was obvious the calipers were full with no air.
The Motive bleeder is nice but a bit pricey, especially shipped up here.
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04-29-2013, 03:19 PM | #21 (permalink) |
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Doing mine today!
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Fast Intentions Twin Turbo Kit GT2860RS, 677WHP|FI 34 row oil cooler|F.I. CBE|Fast 500E return fuel system|FI trans cooler|FI billet aluminum flex plate|Excedy clutch packs|ENKEI RP03|BC BR coilovers|SEIBON Carbon|EVO-R Rear fog light|GTR push start|Whiteline sway bars, Diff bushing|DSS axles|ECUTekW/FlexFuelTune |
04-29-2013, 09:26 PM | #22 (permalink) |
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Fast Intentions Twin Turbo Kit GT2860RS, 677WHP|FI 34 row oil cooler|F.I. CBE|Fast 500E return fuel system|FI trans cooler|FI billet aluminum flex plate|Excedy clutch packs|ENKEI RP03|BC BR coilovers|SEIBON Carbon|EVO-R Rear fog light|GTR push start|Whiteline sway bars, Diff bushing|DSS axles|ECUTekW/FlexFuelTune |
09-28-2013, 07:20 PM | #23 (permalink) |
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AK,
Very good DIY. Iave have my first HPDE event coming up next Sat and after reading a bunch of threads on breaks, break fluid etc... I figured better safe than sorry so I puchased the motion beak bleeder AK out lines in the thread. A few things to add. 1. I did not purchase the aluminum master Cylinder cap. The cap is not only a tight fit as AK describes it is fxxxxing tight. I thought at first I got the wrong cap. I found that if you line up the back tab (nearest the driver compartment) and then pull slightly forward as you push down it will seat correctly then twist, pressurize the bleeder, and check for leaks. None found. Now take it off and fill the bleeder bottle. Again the cap was so tight I had to gently use some channel locks to get it to turn, I couldn't get it to go with my hands. 2. I bought 3 bottles of Motul 600. My car only has 7,000 miles on it so their was no noticeable colo3 difference in the new fluid and the old. This makes one guess at when the calipers have been purged. In hindaight I would have gotten 4 bottles because, I probably went over board on the rear calipers and when I got to the fronts I had a real concern I wouldn't have enough. Everything rurned out and I barely and I mean barely had enough to drain the and refill the clutch master. oh and if you want to save the turkey baster you can do what I did and get a old windwx or similar bottle trigger squirt pump and just use that to pump out as much fluid as you can before you fill it up with the replacement fluid. Works great and you can draw from the bottom of the master cylinder. |
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