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not really sure how to ask it without sounding cheap but oh well
Im looking at drilled and slotted front rotors for my Z and was wondering are the rotors on ebay legit and which ones can i rely on. I would pay 600-700 for a rotor and pad change but just a little tight this month and i have to get these brake changed trying to stay under 200-250 for the fromt rotors and pads. by the way i have the sport calipers
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Save your money. You don't want to skimp on brakes just to look cool. Get something legit. For parts like this that aren't purely cosmetic you might as well save for an extra month or two for the peace of mind knowing that when you need them, the brakes are going to perform.
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:iagree: You are better off picking up a good set of pads and ss braided lines.
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thanks know that i think about might as well keep riding on them till i can get enough or a solid pair. Where is my best place to get a good pair of rotors and pads, because the only resort i know is the dealer, and average price ranges. People tell me i dont need to replace the backs becasue i only have low miles what do you guys think
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The difference on the 370Z is so minor, it's a total waste for someone for whom the Z is just a daily driver. Money is better spent on whatever pads are the best blend of cheapness, quietness and easy rotor wear. Spend the rest on car care products or lunch or something. |
Check out RockAuto.com the have the widest selection I have seen.
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Just save up for this. I just bought the kit for non sport package. Its a good deal.
Z1 370Z / G37 Brake Upgrade Package (Sport Models) But if you want to go seperate fronts only you can use these Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors |
do you even need new rotors since you said you have low miles? just get them turned/resurfaced and some decent pads.
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Are you getting new rotors just for the drilled/slotted look? Or are your current rotors worn out somehow?
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Everytime i brake it feels like its not smooth, im not an expert but feels like there warped. Just before i stop it pulse-ats. The worst is when I'm traveling at high speeds and sometimes go 100+ and brake my steering wheel/brakes vibrates like no other.
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Had the same thing happen to me a while back. Got dirt in the radial slot in one of the pads and the dirt chewed up about half of the braking surface on one side of the rotor. It sure felt like the rotor was warped, but it wasn't. Don't cheap out on brakes (or other critical components). Save up and get the good stuff. It's a sick feeling when your brakes fail (or fade bad enough that you think they have failed). |
Get the rotors turned and buy new pads. I wouldn't buy brake componants off Ebay at gunpoint.
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How much do you think it would cost me to resurface and just change pads, should I touch the back ones. And you know that feeling when you can't trust some people working on it , would the dealer be a good place or what not.
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Call your local auto parts stores. One of them will turn rotors. Take them up there and let them handle it. Pads and rotors are very easy to do yourself. Do the fronts and see if it fixes your problem. If the rears are ok, you're good to go UNLESS the new pads you put in front are dramatically different than the rears.
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thanks guys
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Pads you can get for like 80 bucks and a resurface shouldnt be much more then that. Overall the cheapest route to go. Also be sure your brake fluid is at a good level and if its low top it off. And if you are trying to save money then the dealer would be the last place to go! |
Gonna agree, buying some biscuity chinese brakes off ebay sounds like a recipe for death. You can't be cheap on brakes-at the same time there is alot of room between really damn good street brakes, and high end racing brakes-much more than you might think.
You can actually have brakes that are too good for your tires. They will slow your car so much when applied that your crappy tires will actually give out under the weight and pressure. One other little track secret -if you have been out pushing your brakes really hard, they get hot-very hot. If you then park the car and engage your parking brake-just say "bye bye" to your rotors. The heat from the brake pads will warp your rear rotors. If you have been going 100+ slam on brakes, 100+ slam on brakes, 100+ slam on brakes, then park the car and engage emergency brake, you probably have indeed warped your rotors. |
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Hey South good point. I can tell you that on a '12 sport package it's rotors in the rear so yeah you wouldn't want to do that. I am going to start taping my e-brake at track because sometimes I forget myself on it.
Cold pits, park, e-brake, leave car, walk 15 feet, yell "OH NOES!", run back to save baby. Is a pretty typical beginner track pattern I imagine. |
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Not everything on EBay is cheap Chinese knock offs. You can get get Stop Tech rotors on EBay. Unless they are fakes??
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Especially if it ships from HK. I've seen those places in Shenzhen and HK and wouldn't buy anything from them. OK so I did buy some LED car lights but I tested them and made sure they worked before I spent 5 USD for something that would cost 20.00 on EBay. If it matters buy the real thing. If the price is too low then it's likely a knockoff "Shanzhai" item. |
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Re: front vs rear deposits, you can tell the difference by feel. Deposits on the front you feel mostly through the steering wheel. Deposits in the rear you'll feel mostly through the brake pedal and the body of the car. All of them will feel through all pathways to some degree, but you can usually tell which end it's coming from by that.
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And yes, even though we have separate drums, you still shouldn't set the parking brake when track-hot. At the very least, you can melt/weld the parking brake shoes to the drum. I imagine in a really awful case, you can warp the shape of that drum, and that could in turn apply some warping force to the rotors themselves, since it's all one piece of metal and it's all hot. It only takes a few thousands of an inch of deposits or true warping to make things bad.
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