Torqueing back up to spec after disassembly...
 

I'm currently taking apart the suspension to install swift springs... Some of the nuts are to say mildly torqued to ******.

It took me 3 friends, a long *** bar and some rope to undo the center lug behind the rotor (i forgot which parts it connect, i believe thats the control arm link)

Now my sad realization kicks in, if it took so much effort to undo them how the hell will i ever torque them back to spec...?

It wasnt even rusted... I still drenched it in Liquid Wrench, however goddamn. This makes me fear for not being able to wrench it back together to spec and having the suspension fall apart on me mid drive :owned:


Any insight gentlemen?

Getting factory nuts off is always a PITA the first time. Just put it back together and torque to the settings in the manual and it will be fine.

You don't remove a center lug behind the rotor to do springs. So, yeah.

Unless you're talking about this guy?

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1365086768

Just torque it back to 120lbs. It's not too hard with a real torque wrench.

Edit:

And just for general info.. if the wrench icon is black box with white wrench, the last number is FOOT pounds.

If it is white box with black wrench, the last number is INCH pounds.

It's actually for this reason that I just use KG-M, Kilogram-Meters (the first number inside the parenthesis) because they are always the same and I don't have to worry about which scale I'm using.

Nicer wrenches than mine will have Newton Meters (the number outside the parenthesis) on them, and if you have one that has N-M, just use that scale and forget pounds and inches and feet and ****.

:)

yes, that motherfukcer wouldnt budge. good to know about the torque wrench.

gonna go out and buy one today, anything specific i should look for/be aware of?

use 1386ft/lbs or some loctite would do.

Just make sure it's half inch drive and can go to 140ft lbs or so.

That should give you the range you need to do anything you're likely to do on the car.

I'd look for one with a metric scale in newton meters, however, usually to like 180 or 200 NM.

If you won't be using the torque wrench often, don't get digital. The batteries will be dead the next time you go to use it. Or, worse yet, the batteries will leak.
I keep three torques wrenches: 10-150 ft-lbs and 120-960 in-lbs "clickers" plus a small beam-style that I can't find right now.

Like these?

I take the batteries out when not in use.

Yes some ridiculously expensive snap on digital wrenches will work...

Way too rich for my blood, however. :)

:yum:

heehee Yeah. Easy enough to remove the batteries but it seems I always forget.

It nearly always takes a lot less force to get them back on. You are removing fasteners that have been under stress for a while and have gotten dirty and corroded, ie, they have become stuck together.

When you put everything back together, you will have cleaned all the threads so that they are back to good condition and will turn much easier.

BTW, don't use any lube on the threads unless the torque specs say to. Torque specs are usually given for clean, dry fasteners. Torque is an indirect measurement of bolt stretch/tension and lube will throw things off. If you do use a thread lube, reduce torque (you can find good guesstimates of how much on the web).

very well. I am preparing for the big step of putting on the first spring :owned: took me 2 hours to get to this point. smh. not driving the Z today for sure

So im sitting outside with laptop on my knees outside wondering how to thell one removes the upper strut mount (front) when its covered by the spring... I can't even see the 3 nuts that are supposed to be holding it. Following the DIY on the forum... Help?

The service manuals are online. See link in my sig.

The nuts are inside the engine bay..

Do you mean removing the spring from the shock? There's a nut on the top of the mount that threads onto the shock's inner rod.

Hope you have spring compressors on the thing...