"SPC camber arm fix"
 

Allot of people have complained about the slippage on the SPC front camber arms(mostly on the track)I have too,so this time around I went with Kinetix arms but after bolting them up there was allot of play in them so I went back to SPC but decided to do something about the possible slipping problem.

My fix addresses 2 problems

1.When loosening the ball joint nut to adjust camber the wheel would slide all the way in,by having an adjustable bolt to push the ball joint out and hold it while I tighten the SPC upper nut.

2.After the ball joint nut is tightened (to 150ft lb instead of 120ft lb)my bolt will be snug up against the back of the ball joint then locked with a aircraft jam nut ,I think it is enough to hold the slippage at bay.
But if it slips to the outside I don't have a fix for that.

Here are some photo's to give you a brief snap shot of what I have done,

And for those of you more intrigued here is a link with the rest of the photo's

Nissan 370Z Forum - Baer383's Album: SPC camber arm fix

http://www.the370z.com/members/baer3...a-blasting.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/baer3...ia-blasted.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/baer3...elding-top.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/baer3...ing-bottom.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/baer3...ded-ground.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/baer3...rying-time.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/baer3...under-side.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/baer3...t-side-arm.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/baer3...ottom-side.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/baer3...ottom-view.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/baer3...m-top-view.jpg

OH I'm doing this! Good work as always Frank. The way you welded it looks clean as hell. The added bracket looks like it came that way. Better than what I thought when we talked yesterday. Super Repped.

very nice work!

That WILL fix the problem for sure. :tup:

One suggestion, maybe use at least a Grade 8 bolt rather than a grade 4?

Otherwise looks spectacularly good. Now if they just sold those arms with monoballs!

Edit: And the reason I say that is, if the original nut slips, the full weight of the front end of the car (for that corner) will be sitting on that long, skinny bolt. I'd want as tough a bolt as I could find for that job!

I could use a grade 8 bolt but couldn't fine one plus the key word is slip,if it does slip the full weight isn't going to be on the bolt b/c the SPC nut will still be tight it is not going to come completely loose.

If it slips, it's going to do it on compression, and it's going to run all the way down to that bolt.

SPC owners need to chime in, but the photos I've seen, it ALWAYS ran down to the maximum negative value when they slip, and are stopped only by the bolt hitting the inside of its travel.

I think in a situation where hundreds of pounds are on one fastener, it's probably short sighted to think that once it's slipping, it's doing any real work any more. Just my opinion though.

Arms look great!

The bolt is tightened up against the back of the ball joint all the time.:hello:

I've never heard of the arms slipping all the way to the inside/ negative. Unless it wasn't TQ correctlly. I believe SPC recommends 120 but everyone should know by now to TQ to 150. So that being said if it slipped it wouldn't give much. So consider what Frank did here the bolt also aids in slippage if it was to give any.

My crash at the track last year bent my inner tie rod and the SPC arm didnt slip none being it was TQ to 150. That says a lot. So this solution is perfect in my eyes.

Well there ya go. ;)

Super slick! If the SPLs don't come out soon I'm going to have to pick up a new set of SPCs to do that.

Thanks:hello:

Throw Reps,Likes,Money or whatever else you got.:icon17:

Hate to be a party pooper. But have a question on the mod. With the arms installed. How much room/clearance do you have with the bolt and the coilover?

Go to the link in the post up top and it will bring you to the page with plenty of pics that will answer your questions.:tup:

Looks good Baer! :tup: